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Posts
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Posts posted by Brodie
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Thanks Avitt, you are right on all points. I did notice and forgot to mention (as you pointed out) that this case does not accept standard case backs. The O ring is also larger so even that's not compatible. I have a spare E case back that I bought for use on a standard rep case and found it was too small. I tried it on this case and it fit like a glove so apparently there's a whole different production of case backs out there as well, made to fit these cases but not the standard rep cases. I'm currently sitting on cases from four different vendors and they all have slight differences between each other. If I get some time this weekend I'll try and take some pics and put a comparison.
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Hey folks, looking for some opinions on this case I purchased from helenarou a while back. I've read and seen the differences between the Pre-V and current cases, but still can't pick them apart for sure. After seeing the case blackbard had for sale recently though (http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=101020) looks like the same case. What do you think? Helenarou case is on the left (empty case).
Top - bezel is slightly flatter
Side profile shot of the difference in bezel angle
Lugs - look a little beefier
Back - little wider, can see some "love handles" sticking out around the case back
Strap dimple - does have them which I know is not accurate
Other thing to note is the CG screws are smaller than the standard rep CG screws. I wasn't trying to pick up a Pre-V case so I won't be devastated if it's not, but just curious if it was. Thanks!
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I have the lume material, I will buy some acrilyc varnish.
The method that I wanna do is to fill the marks on the sandwich dial, without taking it apart. I will use a fine syringe.
Is this procedure correct? Or should I take the dial apart and apply the mixed lume+varnisgh patches?
Not saying a syringe wouldn't work, but I can't imagine that turning out looking good. I say do it the right way and separate the dial and apply the lume to the back plate. That's probably easier anyway.
A lot of better quality asian 6497 movements (i.e. swanneck version) do come with the taller cannon pin. But the tall cannon pin does not fix the recessed cannon pin problem. Drulee was on the right path earlier and to fix this problem you need to sand down the tubes on the back of the hands. All the tall cannon pin does is move the position of the hands higher off the dial.
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The rep is exactly:
39.14mm outer diameter and 31.49mm inner diameter
By "rep" you mean the Narikaa rep correct? I had and compared the Narikaa PO with the 4th gen PO and came out with the same measurements. The Narikaa rep is definitely slightly larger in the face (dial and crystal). The Narikaa bezel like you said is about 31.5mm & 39mm whereas the 4th gen bezel is 31mm & 38mm. If the rep parts (and gen parts) are made to fit the 4th gen PO, then it may be tough getting these parts to direct swap on the Narikaa PO. In fact, I think this size quirk may be why the hands look short on the Narikaa PO. It's not that the hands are shorter than the standard rep PO hands, I think the dial and indices are just a tad bigger which stretches them out farther away from the tip of the hands (if that makes sense).
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If it's a screw on caseback, I've never met one that I couldn't open with just some plain duct tape. Just cut a strip and smooth it over the caseback, make sure you get a nice flat seal. Then just grab each end as near to the case as possible and twist.
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Shape is correct, lever tip is flat, and the finish is a bit rough. Looks like a V CG to me.
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I couldn't wait for the resurrection of this sale so I bought one of these "Narikaa PO's" from another member about a month ago and it is awesome!
Narikaa, definitely count me in for a rubber strap if you do get them in.
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Can't wait to show off my Watchdogified PAM112.
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Your options are the same as everyone else:
- Buy a pre-modded dealer watch (a la DSN)
- Buy a modded watch from another member
- Learn to do things on your own
- Find someone else to mod your watch
There are enough posts and resources on this site to help you do any one of these things. But if you're hell bent on finding a "modder" to do things for you, have you looked outside of this forum? People here are among the most helpful and I'm not suggesting that as a slight to the community, but if you don't find what you need here, there are other places you can look.
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It's not too difficult. I was able to resize mine in about 5 mins. Of course that's after I bent two fracken pins. The hardest part is pushing the pin back through the middle collar. The collar is crimped so that it holds the pin tight so you really have to push hard to get it through. It's quite frustrating to both push it hard and keep it straight, hence the bent pins.
Best suggestion I can give is find something hard (plastic) with a shallow corner. Turn the bracelet upside down so the pin sits in a corner and is braced firmly. Try to keep a straight angle and then firm press the bracelet down to force the pin through. Imagine the little pin sticking out is like a knife and you're about stab yourself in the belly, that's sort of the motion. Once it gets through the middle collar, use the link resizer to tool to push the remaining bit through.
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On the list of annoying flaws,
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The Zigmeister's breakdowns > that
Actually that was well done and interesting to read. It's easy to get caught up in rep world and think how "nice" a rep movement looks until you see the real finish of a gen movemement. (sigh)
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That looks consistent with the new E series movement Angus has in his 111E. Not sure why the gear bevels are so wide now, just doesn't look right.
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Thanks guys.
It was crap thpough, too thick, bad brushing, wrong caseback, wrong bucklem mineral glass, but it was cheep, I cut my teeth in the rep world on these i wanted them all, now i only have the gen 39mm at and the railmaster left, the 39mm AT is real good, and the railmaster is even betterI actually ran into a bunch of your posts from 2006(!) over at replicacollector. This picture was helpful.
I saw that the RWG Collaboration
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Hello, looking for some clarification from the Omega experts out there. I know a genuine Railmaster in 42mm exists (code 2502.52). I
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Okay last one (wish I could edit my posts). I just don't want to do work today.
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Zig, like this?
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Best mock ups I could from work. (The red image is a copy of the blue image so it looks a little sloppier, but you get the idea)
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Can't wait for the finished product, looks amazing.
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Sick! I was actually thinking of asking you for something similar for a personal project. Now I have something to reference.
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Wow, so nice. PMed you for more info (again).
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Looks like the "new" 111E that Angus (and possibly others) are now selling. All in all a decent watch, although the older, original "ultimate 111E" was more accurate. Two of the best things about the older version, the CG and the movement, have been changed slightly on this new version. The CG shape is a little different and the gear bevels on these "new" E series movements are now abnormally thick.
Just another example of how for every one rep the factories improve, another perfectly fine classic takes a step backwards.
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I never really looked much at IWC watches before; they just didn
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Welcome Vac! Nice to see you here as well.
The Zigmeister Effect
in The Panerai Area
Posted
Blue lume > green lume
Nice watches!