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Making A Pam Case Wrench...


Usil

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I am going to try to make a PAM case wrench this weekend. I am tired of using Duct Tape and I am not going to spend big bucks for the aluminum custom-formed wrench even though it looks nice. Actually, it is what gave me the idea.

Someone tell me where I may be wrong here. I am going to get some molding plastic, the type that you pour and sets up hard.

1. I will put a thin piece of plastic wrap over the case back

2. I will make a small well on my table and pour the plastic into it

3. I will set the case back into the well letting the liquid plastic take the shape of the case

4. Let the plastic harden over night

5. Glue the disk of plastic formed as reverse of the case back to a piece of wood

And Bob's your uncle - a case back opener.

Usil

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The poured plastic should not be too soft because the surface area of the sides of the case is large with regards to the force needed to tighten and loosen. If I make the disk large enough to give support to the wrench part of the casting, this should work. We will see.

I have not made it yet, I will look at materials tomorrow (Saturday at BHV).

Yes, I know about the metal ones but I am not going to pay the big bucks for these and prefer to try to do this myself as a project.

Usil

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I lust after a sticky ball but do not have one.

I had considered an epoxy type compound like JB Weld but thought that the pouring of castable plastic might be a little easier. To do this with JB Weld would take several tubes to produce a sufficient disk increasing the cost. Trying to find the cheapest and easiest way. Will let you know what happens when I hit the hobby floor at BHV today.

Usil

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I have one of Watchinger's caseback openers and I agree that it's an awesome piece of kit - well worth the money if you are a Panerai enthusiast. I have used it on a couple of genuine PAMs where the duct tape and rubber gloves were no use. This wrench is so nicely made it is a piece of jewelery in itself, and it leaves no marks on the watch backs.

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I don't want rubber glove tight, I want secure waterproof tight.

Contrary to popular opinion, waterproof doesn't mean as tight as possible. Over-tightening can damage the O-Ring. All you want is an evenly compressed O-Ring.

I used the one on the right to open and close my 111h:

104539-25436.jpg

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Ok, just back from the BHV with the materials. I will take pictures as I go and we should know tomorrow if this all works.

Pugwash:

I know the issues of over tightening. To illustrate the issue I have, I will take a picture of my 187 and the gap between the case back and the watch case. I have used the tape method to tighten as much as I can but the larger of the o-rings is so firm that it prevents sufficient compression from this method. There is still a gap visible indicating the case is not completely set. This was also demonstrated when I removed the case back, which appeared tight, after 1/4 turn. It popped off. So, for those with 187's use your loop to examine the fit.

Watchinger:

I am not knocking the device. It is great. I am just going to try this to see if it works. I think I have sufficient resin crystal to make one for my 47mm and also the 44mm backs. The final cost should be about 10 dollars a piece.

Usil

Edited by Usil
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Ok, just back from the BHV with the materials. I will take pictures as I go and we should know tomorrow if this all works.

Fantastic. I await results. :D

I will also be careful with my 183 when it arrives, thanks to your advice.

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Ok, all done.

It is not going to be pretty but I have hopes it will work. I took pictures and will try to get them in order to post. This is my first casting and there were issues, mostly on my improvised parts used to cast and being afraid to subject my nice 187 case back directly to the resin.

The casting can be removed from the shell in 12 hours so midnight we take a peek. Sunday it should be all set to try.

Get back to you a little later.

Usil

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Done with the first part.

Here is a link to a pdf file containing the pictures and text of what I just did. I will amend it tomorrow.

Part #1: Making a PAM Case Back Removal Tool - DIY

Part #2 coming at midnight.

(I already thought of a better way to make the casting and much more accurate fit to th ecase back)

Usil

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9:00pm

I have removed the case back from the mold with no problems. Cleaned it up and put it back on the watch.

The resin is clear & hard but still a little tacky when touched. I set it on my computer to get a little warmth to speed the setting process.

I can remove the resin as one lump if I pick up the plastic it is setting in the mold. I see the imprint of the case back on the bottom and it looks good. I am leaving the plastic on the mold for a few more hours and then will remove it. I will leave it on top of the computer over night and check it in the morning. Too dark to take pictures right now as I am using an old digital and it is not too good.

I will take pictures tomorrow of the finished casting and trial it out on the watch case back. If this proto-type works, I will complete the tutorial along with some further suggestions. If all goes well, I will try to make a 44 mm next week. After creating the 44mm for the experiance, I will make a single tool with a 47mm head on one side and a 44mm head on the other. I will offer these for sale for 1000.00 USD (still saving for my replacement camera). Of course that is the price for the Gen, if I make a rep it will be cheaper.

Usil

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August 20, 2006 Update:

I have completed the prototype and tried it out this morning. It works but not because of the intended design. Read the Part 2 pdf file to see the rest of this project.

Part 1: PAM Case Back Tool Project (DIY)

Part 2: PAM Case Back Tool (DIY)

I am encouraged to try another proto-type. I hope others in the forum will try this too and lend their creative skills to creating this tool.

Usil

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