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21J and 23J


maxman

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Most of my reps are of the 7750 variety. I have read where the Zig suggest not hand winding the 7750. I have never wound my 7750s and just give It a few shakes set the time and off I go. I have not had any problems thus far. The question Is ??? " Is It OK to wind my 21J or 23J movements". I know that they are a more robust unit then the finicky 7750. I dont think there should be a problem winding these movements but I want to make sure. I normally dont really think about the stored energy. My new watch Is the Ulysse Nardin 45 Maxie diver with power reserve. I am now very much aware of the power that the watch has remaining. When I received the watch yesterday I gave It a few swirls like a brandy snifter, set the time, and put on the watch. It's holding at about 60% PR, not bad for just wearing the watch. I try to take great care of my reps and gens. Im thinking that this would be good Infomation for anyone who feels like I do. I know that this Is more of a noob question but there are a lot of noobs here Including myself. :pardon: Thanks In advance for any Info one might have, :) Mike

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I personally wouldn't try it with any of my 21js but you're right in that it's a more robust/reliable movement than the 7750s. The only watch i'd feel comfortable hand winding would be one of my swiss eta's.. although.. I've always found a few good shakes to be sufficient. I have a habbit of wearing a watch for 3 days to a week before thinking to change the watch. So by that time the watch is usually fully wound. My Skyland Blacksteel seems to last about 48 hours with no problems

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Keep in mind that any automatic watch has some type of clutch to isolate the rotor from the mainspring and allow the crown to wind the watch.

The rotor to the mainspring is a geared up set of gears, many many turns of the rotor are needed to turn the mainspring one full wind. When you use the crown, no matter the type of automatic movement, you are driving these gears in reverse, a SLIGHT turn on the crown, has the gears closest to the rotor, and the clutches, spinning like mad, that is where the damage is caused...it is not designed to run in reverse.

SLOW winding and only enough to get the movement running is the best long term care you can give your automatic...

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Keep in mind that any automatic watch has some type of clutch to isolate the rotor from the mainspring and allow the crown to wind the watch.

The rotor to the mainspring is a geared up set of gears, many many turns of the rotor are needed to turn the mainspring one full wind. When you use the crown, no matter the type of automatic movement, you are driving these gears in reverse, a SLIGHT turn on the crown, has the gears closest to the rotor, and the clutches, spinning like mad, that is where the damage is caused...it is not designed to run in reverse.

SLOW winding and only enough to get the movement running is the best long term care you can give your automatic...

Thank you so much for the reply Zig. I think of you as EF Hutton, when you speek I listen :g: thanks again :) Mike

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I personally wouldn't try it with any of my 21js but you're right in that it's a more robust/reliable movement than the 7750s. The only watch i'd feel comfortable hand winding would be one of my swiss eta's.. although.. I've always found a few good shakes to be sufficient. I have a habbit of wearing a watch for 3 days to a week before thinking to change the watch. So by that time the watch is usually fully wound. My Skyland Blacksteel seems to last about 48 hours with no problems

Sounds good and makes alot of sense, thanks. :drinks: Mike

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