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Need some advice...


swdivad

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OK Guys, I am starting this new topic so it's fresh... Hope some can help...

I am just about to receive the final parts to put together a 203A... The movement and no AR crystal are waiting at the PO...

I need a few suggestions.

Firstly, for this period watch, which would you use for the dial... The more aged or the less aged looking dial below?

img3195resize.jpg

img3196resize.jpg

I'm thinking the newer looking dial, as the case is as new and it may be a better match, but I need some more learned opinions.

Whichever I choose, there would be another dial left... I'm wondering what that would be good for besides a 203A

Second issue I have is the matte finish I hear people talking about.

I have a 201A and the dial does have a vertical 'sheen' to it, and it feels a bit off.... Is this the way the dials actually are, or are they coated/matte finish?

What are you guys using for the matte finishing on the dial?

Third and last question is on the dial backing plate...

How thick should it be, and is it simply glued to the movement/dial?

I have what seems to be a steel backing plate that's 3.56 diameter and .48 thick with a 2.38 diameter hole in the middle (no seconds at 9 hole :(

Is this a backing plate and is it the right thickness to use?

Thanks for any help... Hopefully I will have something together within a week or so :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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I would go with the newer dial. Pre-V is not that old - 13-14 years old. That aging looks more like it should come on a true radium vintage - not tritium. I have several A tritium dials and they are typically still yellow with some occasional browning. The hands are always whiter as Panerai has always painted the the underside of the hands white.On the dial finish I would go with a matte spray. Someone else suggested one. Ziggy has a good one. On the back plate the original Pre-V dials were one piece (at least a white one I had for a while before deciding to sell it). So the back plate should be whatever thickness is required to fit into the case and give you proper pinion/hand height. In terms of attaching the dial I would suggest gluing the back plate to the dial and using the normal movement tape (can't remember what is called) to attach the dial to the movement. My 2 cents.

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Thanks guys... My thoughts as well on the newer dial.

I will have a look at a hobby shop somewhere for some matte spray... I hope I don't screw it up :Jumpy:

I will suppose that my watchmaker will know what to do about a backing plate when he's putting it together... Either way, it'll be on my wrist soon :bounce:

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Thanks guys... My thoughts as well on the newer dial.

I will have a look at a hobby shop somewhere for some matte spray... I hope I don't screw it up :Jumpy:

I will suppose that my watchmaker will know what to do about a backing plate when he's putting it together... Either way, it'll be on my wrist soon :bounce:

Your watchmaker will. It has to have enough thickness to properly fit the movement into the slots in the case and fit the dial flush against the top of the midcase. Oh, and it also has to provide for the proper height so that the pinion shaft(s) are long enough to hold the hands. If you are using a FGD dial use his lower dial or get the depth from someone else who has one.

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Great gesture Sox! Your info is dead on... There has been lots of talk lately about the fantastic results with TS-80. As far as your 201a dial is concerned it is typical of FGD's. I have had 3 or 4 so far and all have the vertical pattern. One of them I had was matt sprayed and it was crazy beautiful! I think you will be quite happy with the results...

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