WM9 V1 or V3 bezel?

[CaptainJack]

Hello All,

Another post in the ongoing saga of Jack's WM9 V3.

As soon as this watch arrived, I knew something was off, even before I put on my glasses.

My question to you guys is, V1 or V3 bezel? I think I know the answer. I love the scratches at

the 40 marker from what can only be from bezel removal. And don't you love the "40"?

The missing pearl insert happened while I was on the phone with the previous owner about buying

the watch. He was rotating the bezel for me and it popped out! I told him I was still interested

because I have a gen insert and would be replacing it anyway. Big mistake.

What really PO'd me was this was sold as a V3, not a franken watch, which it should have been.

I've included a picture lifted from a pictorial done by fleed on the V3 (third picture down) and

I added a shot of my gen 16613(fifth picture down) for comparison's.

Oh, and don't you love the revel between the insert and the bezel?

The last picture of the dial raises a question about the WM9 dials of the V2 and V3.

You can see a problem with the printing on the "c" and the "o" in the word "OFFICIALLY".

It doesn't stop there; looking at the dial with a jeweler's loupe reveals that every letter

in the lower half of the dial has a small hole in the printing, at the bottom of the letter.

Yeah, I know, I shouldn't have done that to myself, looking too closely at a rep. But I saw the "C"

with just reading glasses and had to look closer.

Anybody else have problems with the dial printing on their WM9 dials?

Thanks for any input,

Jack

[d-rock]

Ahhhh, so perhaps that would account for the bezel "not turning very freely" unless applying a bit of downward pressure to it while turning it??

(and perhaps some clueless wingnut thinking a tiny dab of penetrating oil would solve this minor issue)

THOSE are some VERY nice pics, Capt. Seems you know your way around a camera AND around watches as it looks dis-assembled from the topside already.

I'm certainly going to have to read some tutorials or buy some watchmaker repair books..how did you get the bezel and crystal off like that so quickly.

(the right tools, I guess??)

And HOW did you get your camera to "zoom in" so close the the dial font and still remain clear and very focused?? Very nicely done.

I'm still trying to figure out the "M" aligment on the MBW you referred to in another post.

Edited October 9, 2010 by chief

[highoeyazmuhudee]

that bezel ring in the first picture is absolutely horrible. its not a v3 and i dont even know if that IS a v1. v1 looks better.

dial looks 'ok' some are printed better than others, the 9 oclock marker on mine was a little rough looking. inconsistent printing, qc differs at different parts of the production run, over using the templates beyond what they should, not evenly applied ink. etc etc.

v1 bezel ring (right) as i posted in your other thread

your insert is also sitting TOO recessed. who made that bezel?

this is how recessed it should be mbk case, v1 bezel ring and WO insert.

wait what am i saying? you own a gen! see for yourself

Edited October 9, 2010 by highoeyazmuhudee

[CaptainJack]

Hey Chief,

Nikon Coolpix 110 is the camera. General use with closeup capability, if you get lucky with the shot. I might shot three or more shots to get the right one.

Then I use the "fix" feature in the windows viewer off my desktop to crop or lighten/darken the shot. The crop feature is nice to zoom in and get rid of stuff.

The "m" alignment is the small m after the 300m and the m in the Chronometer word below it. They are supposed to be right over each other, not offset.

Jack

Ahhhh, so perhaps that would account for the bezel "not turning very freely" unless applying a bit of downward pressure to it while turning it??

(and perhaps some clueless wingnut thinking a tiny dab of penetrating oil would solve this minor issue)

THOSE are some VERY nice pics, Capt. Seems you know your way around a camera AND around watches as it looks dis-assembled from the topside already.

I'm certainly going to have to read some tutorials or buy some watchmaker repair books..how did you get the bezel and crystal off like that so quickly.

(the right tools, I guess??)

And HOW did you get your camera to "zoom in" so close the the dial font and still remain clear and very focused?? Very nicely done.

I'm still trying to figure out the "M" aligment on the MBW you referred to in another post.

[d-rock]

I'm not sure if it's the angle or the nut camera operator, but both the v2 and the MBW seem to be a bit higher than yours.

[CaptainJack]

No, really?

The angle is shallow to show just how much the insert sits below the edge of the upper bezel.

I don't think $75 subs are this bad.

Can't believe a member in good standing sold this as a V3.

Jack

I'm not sure if it's the angle or the nut camera operator, but both the v2 and the MBW seem to be a bit higher than yours.

[d-rock]

Here is the best I could do in showing the height of the crystal over the insert.

These are the BK WM9 v2 and the MBW LV Submariners