hublotman Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) Hi guys, I would like an expert opinion on the differences between the best possible hublot big bang replica and the real one. Taking in consideration that the hublot replica has been modded with the following things: V1 MODEL WITH: Double AR, lume, v2 rotor, taka datewheel and engraved rotor with H logo Will there be any visible differences? Thank you Edited January 18, 2011 by hublotman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4jure Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hi guys, I would like an expert opinion on the differences between the best possible hublot big bang replica and the real one. Taking in consideration that the hublot replica has been modded with the following things: V1 MODEL WITH: Double AR, lume, v2 rotor, taka datewheel and engraved rotor with H logo Will there be any visible differences? Thank you The difference is a Gen will always be a gen and no matter how much time and money you spend on modding your best rep it will still get called out if you hand it over to someone who knows the brand. If you're not looking to fool people and just want to enjoy a beautiful watch, than V1 is definitely the best choice. The mods you listed will take the watch up a notch or two although it's very nice out of the box. Oh, there's a strange trend lately of installing V2 rotors on V1 watches, although the engraving on V2 rotors is completely off. V1 rotor with the ETA bearing mod done by Francisco will look MUCH closer to gen. You forgot to list the fine adjuster mod,which is a pretty big tell if you're looking to improve the back. Btw, you probably meant engraved bridge with H logo not "rotor" right? A rather big issue is the caseback, which is different in almost every model. Which V1 are you after? Next, you should swap the asian movement mainplate with a gen ETA counterpart to get the 25 JEWEL engraving like the gen. You would also want to change the black movement screws for silver ones... Another obvious tell. If you're stil not happy (and broke) you can change the whole movement for a gen ETA... maybe get real titanium H screws and replace those cheap SS bezel screws on the front. As you can see modding a hublot (as amazingly good as V1 reps are) is a never ending story. Decide how much you want to spend in advance and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hublotman Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) Thanks for this great reply, if I am looking for just the front of the watch and the overall built then the V1 is the closest to the original? Is there anything to say about the quality of the built of the watch? the type of rubber used in V1? and the quality of the buttons? as I understand from you the V1 with Double AR, lume and taka datewheel is the best looking watch from the front? (NOT TAKING IN CONDERATION LOOKING AT THE BACK OF THE WATCH, WHERE THE SERIOUS STUFF IS BEING DONE) ; ) Edited January 18, 2011 by hublotman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4jure Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Forgot one important mod for the front: get a thick crystal! The rep comes with a thin one and although the double AR is fine, thickness is not as per gen. Otherwise, yes, taka datewheel, lume and you're set. Rubber quality of V1 is just fine, the clasp needs some sanding around the edges, some like to reglue the rubber inserts of the chrono pusher buttons to insure they don't fall out, although this has never happened to me on a V1 before. Again, don't expect the watch to be the same as a 10k gen. But it's good. Very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hublotman Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) Where can I buy the ETA movement for the hublot? I also need it to be engraved with the H logo and the 25 bezel indication with titanium screws and purchase the SS bezel screws for the front. From where should I buy the V1, with taka datewheel, lume and saphire crystal (back and front)? Even if a hublot salesman looks at it from the front, do you think he will still be able to tell? Edited January 18, 2011 by hublotman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4jure Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I don't think he'll be able to tell but there's not need to take that chance! Mind one of the basic rules of the community: NEVER TAKE YOUR REP TO ANY AD! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hublotman Posted January 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) We forgot which hublot big bang we are talking about Stainless steel, rose gold or titanium? Also for the front ceramic is the way to go right? The replica ceramic is good as the gen? I believe the rose gold is the worse replica because the color is different than the original right? Correct me if I am wrong. Please reply to my previews post as I edited it. Edited January 18, 2011 by hublotman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defender110 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 to quote: 'get a gen as no rep will ever make you happy' if you cannot bring yourself to purchase a gen Hubl. then get a Gen of something else... then purchase ONE replica watch and enjoy and examine it for 30days... after 30days re-examine your purpose in asking the questions above... (because for any serious WIS if will never pass as gen even with mods, but for 99.9999999% of the population an off the self rep with no mods will pass any day) note that most serious collectors here on the forums enjoy watches for what they are: TIMEKEEPERS. they enjoy replica and genuines alike and collect both, and they NEVER pass off a replica as a GENUINE even with modification. i say with assuredness that many of the serious wis here have more money in a Grail Franken then the average price of a swiss genuine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey2008 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 good advice from Jure already. You should start with a superb v1 base watch. Movement mods are not high priority and too many guys starting out focus on this too much. Its nice to have the engraved rotor with ETA bearing but if you can't get one there's always Francisco to consider. Definitely swap the crystal to something thicker. Taka datewheel is also a good upgrade depending which watch you buy. (i think if you have the $700 allblack then its not worth the upgrade). Good watch to start: v1 Tuiga: swap crystal and DW, maybe relume. No mvt mods required as its closed back. Icebang: Crystal, DW, stealth lume. Allblack: Crystal, Marker mod. *DW if wrong colour Black magic: Crystal, DW, relume? additional upgrades like Ti screws and Ti casebacks make it more personal. Here's some of mine... {the one in the center is the v1-lite, *watch to right has rep crystal} Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom10167 Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Mikey I just got a V1 and I'd like the full screw set, how do I go about it? Also, does anyone know when RG will be back up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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