supermanx Posted October 4, 2006 Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 I buy a lot of used reps, and it seems they are never oiled and/or polished. You would be amazed what 30 minutes will make. Reps when they come from the factory are dirty... Here are some pictures after a good cleaning and a little bit of touch up with a cape cod. Compare the dull gunmetal appearance of the rep band, very little shine unlike the brilliance of gen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elwopo Posted October 4, 2006 Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 a little bit of touch up with a cape cod. If you could clarify this procedure...I'm sure it would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure that I'm not the only owner of the dull band syndrome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supermanx Posted October 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 I use MAAS (about $4. a tube at any pharmacy, grocery store, or hardware store) or Cape Cods for finer work or quick brightening on a "diaper rag" or cheap microfiber cloths. Use dishsoap and very hot water between polishings to remove any grease polish debri. Use care when polishing any brushed watch or you will be rebrushing. For oiling I use 3 in 1 gun oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJGladeRaider Posted October 4, 2006 Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 I use MAAS (about $4. a tube at any pharmacy, grocery store, or hardware store) or Cape Cods for finer work or quick brightening on a "diaper rag" or cheap microfiber cloths. Use dishsoap and very hot water between polishings to remove any grease polish debri. Use care when polishing any brushed watch or you will be rebrushing. For oiling I use 3 in 1 gun oil. I have a bunch of watches that need this treatment. How do you get the grit out of the link internals. Is there a specific procedure that works? I usually just switch the bracelets on the Subs I wear to stingray with deployment clasps but some nice bracelets would be very cool too. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raphizzz Posted October 4, 2006 Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 sorry but what is Cape Cods? I use MAAS (about $4. a tube at any pharmacy, grocery store, or hardware store) or Cape Cods for finer work or quick brightening on a "diaper rag" or cheap microfiber cloths. Use dishsoap and very hot water between polishings to remove any grease polish debri. Use care when polishing any brushed watch or you will be rebrushing. For oiling I use 3 in 1 gun oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supermanx Posted October 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 sorry but what is Cape Cods? TJ I polish by hand mostly working the links back and forth, then use a soft toothbrush with dish soap like dawn to really clean between the links. I then coat in 3 in 1 oil and wrap in plastic wrap moving every link back and forth for about 10 minutes, let stand another 15 minutes then wash by hand with dishsoap and very hot water, dry and polish with a good quality microfiber cloth. As for cape cod its a polishing cloth you can buy on the bay from watchboys also: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetsons Posted October 4, 2006 Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 supermanx, I've noticed the same. Not sure why this is considering the numerous threads & tutorials on cleaning watches. I've done the following and the results have been very good also: For the bracelets, thoroughly clean (liquid soap & water) with a tooth brush. Do the same with a quality Carnuba wax/cleaner. For best results, work the wax/cleaner throroughly between the links. For the links, brush in the same direction as the finish. Presto and the bracelet looks terrific & feels silky smooth. To smooth the sharp inside edges of the bracelet, I use this rig & it works great plus it is easy as pie: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=9599&hl= BTW, car wax/polish also works great polishing cases. Simply apply with a soft cotton cloth after cleaning the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxon Waxoff Posted October 4, 2006 Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 I just bought my first rep from supermanx. Part of the attraction was that he had done some of the heavy lifting of correcting some of the flaws and oiling the movement, etc. If this watch is anything to go by, everyone should pay careful attention to anything he says. The 007 rep feels nicer than my gen Datejust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bearcat Posted October 4, 2006 Report Share Posted October 4, 2006 I also recommend Flitz metal polish for the outside ends of the links. Makes them polish up like a gen. Be careful not to get any on the flats of the links, though, or you will be re-brushing with steel wool or a Scoth-Brite pad. --Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasigi Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 OK, I'm about to clean, polish, oil my first bracelet and it's the one from my LV Sub but I'm a little bit confused. The bracelet looks dull as though it should be polished and shiny, but it also looks very slightly brushed as well, but it's not obvious. So, should I just go all out for maximum shineyness or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasigi Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Hmm, OK. Investigation shows it should be brushed so that kinda means I can't use Cape Cod really without having to rebrush. I've got some Autosol polish that might work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watcher Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasigi Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Holy [censored], you don't realise how dirty these things are. Autosol. Two links cleaned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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