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Inexpensive Brush Plating Kit


crystalcranium

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http://caswellplating.com/kits/plugnplate.htm

Looks like an inexpensive way to keep gold plated watches looking great. The video demonstration is very good. It shows how to use the kit to both brush and dip plate small items. I assume you would have to disassemble your watch to the smallest possible components, ie take out the dial and movement, remove the stem and crown, pop out the crystal, remove the bezel etc...but it looks loke a great way to do home maintainance of poorly plated gold watches from our asian friends. Hey, couldn't you gold plate a decorated rotor on an otherwise steel movement for a "two toned" look. Am I missing something here as to why this can't work? For less than $50 for a gold plating setup, it looks ideal. I'd like to think I could brush plate the case of my gold FA Jones until I get 25 mls of plating.

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@cc,

I have this kit, as do at least a couple of other members.

The biggest problem I encounter, is trying to establish what base metal I am coating over!

You will find that there are different preparations required for different bases, (which also requires purchase of a couple of extra solutions)

I can report results from absolutely fantastic.... to bloody awful.In fact I have one watch still sitting as a work in progress after 2 years, I just can't get the plating to take...as I can't find the correct prep ( as I don't know what the base material of it is!)

There were a couple of long discussions @ RWGuide, back about 2 years ago. I think I still have those threads archived, if you can't find them... shoot me a PM and I will try to drag them out, if you can't dig them up.

BTW, Caswell are a bit slow in responding to " How do I fix this" questions... they get around to it.. but sometimes it can be a week.. which is bloody frustrating, when you have a job set up and going, and

can't get the plating to take.

I had a problem trying to coat a "rice grain" band. You need to have your negative clip attached to each individual piece of metal to coat. I set up a probe instead of the alligator clip as the clip was too large to grip each piece, but eventually gave up after a couple of hundred "grains", as the job was looking spotty. Another job consigned to a " work in progress" container. And as this band is part of the watch ( no spring bars) its another that is pretty much a write off.

I find I now only attack relatively expensive watches, and use it infrequently.

My score.... 6/10.

Offshore

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@cc,

I have this kit, as do at least a couple of other members.

The biggest problem I encounter, is trying to establish what base metal I am coating over!

You will find that there are different preparations required for different bases, (which also requires purchase of a couple of extra solutions)

I can report results from absolutely fantastic.... to bloody awful.In fact I have one watch still sitting as a work in progress after 2 years, I just can't get the plating to take...as I can't find the correct prep ( as I don't know what the base material of it is!)

There were a couple of long discussions @ RWGuide, back about 2 years ago. I think I still have those threads archived, if you can't find them... shoot me a PM and I will try to drag them out, if you can't dig them up.

BTW, Caswell are a bit slow in responding to " How do I fix this" questions... they get around to it.. but sometimes it can be a week.. which is bloody frustrating, when you have a job set up and going, and

can't get the plating to take.

I had a problem trying to coat a "rice grain" band. You need to have your negative clip attached to each individual piece of metal to coat. I set up a probe instead of the alligator clip as the clip was too large to grip each piece, but eventually gave up after a couple of hundred "grains", as the job was looking spotty. Another job consigned to a " work in progress" container. And as this band is part of the watch ( no spring bars) its another that is pretty much a write off.

I find I now only attack relatively expensive watches, and use it infrequently.

My score.... 6/10.

Offshore

So, is the base metal important to plating gold over existing gold? I think my primary purpose in using the kit would be to "thicken" existing plating on arrival from the factory 5 mls (yeah, right) to a wear resistant level.

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So, is the base metal important to plating gold over existing gold? I think my primary purpose in using the kit would be to "thicken" existing plating on arrival from the factory 5 mls (yeah, right) to a wear resistant level.

Plating is very tricky over stainless steel. In order to get a thicker coating one most plate then neutralize then plate again as if this is not done it will crystalize and look horrible. Brush plating is inconsistent. The correct way is to immerse in a heated cyanide based solution with a proper rectifier. Plating for about 90 sec then taking it out and rinsing in distilled water then neutralized in baking soda and repeat. I have done a lot of plating in my days and will tell you the correct chemicals to do this can KILL you. If one is meticulous in their everyday life then go ahead and buy the correct equipment (which we sell) and try it, otherwise leave this to the professionals

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Gold readly plates over gold, silver, and nickel. The whole trick is matching the Karat content, as well as the alloy cutting the gold; each will change it's color. If you will always use the same solution you shouldn't have any problem. Don't expect a long term fix as most pen plates leave a very thin micro plate designed just for touch ups, the long term fix is plating baths which don't require very much equipment but are a mess. Using any method of plating though, the single most important element of plating is the cleanlines of the piece you intend to plate. Body oils can really mess a plate up. Make sure the piece is clean.

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@cc,

You will find that trying to build up GP can actually result in the brush plating removing the existing GP.

You really need to start from a clean base. ( Well prepared)

@Birdman

I agree - these kits are really just for cosmetic use, and amateur at best.

I have done ( mainly genuines) quite a few, but still struggle in knowing what the base metal is. I can assure you that not all watches are s/s base, and knowing what you are starting with, seems to be the key.

Just cos it looks like s/s... doesn't mean it is!

Offshore

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