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Seamaster chrono 300M


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I was just reading some great reviews of this watch on this forum. A great watch, and probably one of the best reps I've seen. But something about it always bothered me. I noticed that on the rep versions there are hour markers at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 positions, and that the subdials do not quite reach the edges. Like in the first attachment.

But from the Omega website, I noticed that the genuine version has the subdials at 12 and 6 extending further out and that there are no hour markers at the 12, 3, 6 or 9 positions. Am I missing something here or was there a previous gen version of the Seamaster chrono that the rep is based on?

post-39269-0-92013300-1313496401.jpg

post-39269-0-80804200-1313496414.jpg

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The picture you posted there on the right is the newer version with the seamaster in red

this is the older version

2599-80_11.JPG

and the rep is prettttty good

Right. I also see the Red Seamaster version floating around as well. Is that one equally good?

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I have both (and the gen in titanium) I prefer the non red..be aware these things strip crown threads like mad..its an easy fix and the gen crown and tube wil set you back about 75 bucks..

sorry, not exactly sure what you mean (newbie)?

Why would old version be more prone to thread damage - how so?

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sorry, not exactly sure what you mean (newbie)?

Why would old version be more prone to thread damage - how so?

The crown is a screw in style where it has threads (like a nut) and attaches onto the tube (like a bolt). If the crown isn't properly put onto the tube after you are done adjusting the watch, the threads will break apart since they aren't lined up. Think of like a soda bottle where you can't get the cap back on!

FYI the watch to the right is the newer version of the Seamaster Chronometer 300M. It differs most notably with the red text and the missing lume which you caught. A big issue on these watches is the pearl (make sure it's centered and aligned properly and not outside the triangle), the HE valve HAS to be at the 10 o'clock position on this model, the red color should be red and not a reddish orange like on a few reps. Also another giveaway to look for is the bezel. Notice by the #'s such as 30, on the gen model the bezel is NOT cut into and has an engraved section after that position and then once again solid where it says 40. Also I believe that there is an issue with the rep's using screws vs pins or something of the nature on the bracelet. I can't remember since it's so late but there was def. an issue on the earlier models when I was looking at them a few months ago.

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The crown is a screw in style where it has threads (like a nut) and attaches onto the tube (like a bolt). If the crown isn't properly put onto the tube after you are done adjusting the watch, the threads will break apart since they aren't lined up. Think of like a soda bottle where you can't get the cap back on!

FYI the watch to the right is the newer version of the Seamaster Chronometer 300M. It differs most notably with the red text and the missing lume which you caught. A big issue on these watches is the pearl (make sure it's centered and aligned properly and not outside the triangle), the HE valve HAS to be at the 10 o'clock position on this model, the red color should be red and not a reddish orange like on a few reps. Also another giveaway to look for is the bezel. Notice by the #'s such as 30, on the gen model the bezel is NOT cut into and has an engraved section after that position and then once again solid where it says 40. Also I believe that there is an issue with the rep's using screws vs pins or something of the nature on the bracelet. I can't remember since it's so late but there was def. an issue on the earlier models when I was looking at them a few months ago.

Gotcha. But all these problems have been worked out on the non-red rep version, right?

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Gotcha. But all these problems have been worked out on the non-red rep version, right?

A lot of the inconsistencies were fixed but a stripped crown can happen on any watch including a Genuine watch if you aren't careful with the crown. It's not as hard as it sounds, just simply be a tad patient with the crown and don't force it onto the watch, just nice and gentle.

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A lot of the inconsistencies were fixed but a stripped crown can happen on any watch including a Genuine watch if you aren't careful with the crown. It's not as hard as it sounds, just simply be a tad patient with the crown and don't force it onto the watch, just nice and gentle.

Right.

So can anyone tell me regarding the updated red version, are there any other glaring flaws on the rep version?

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Right.

So can anyone tell me regarding the updated red version, are there any other glaring flaws on the rep version?

The other flaw I can find right now looking at the pictures on trusty's website vs. the gen is the length of the subdial hands, the hands should go all the way to the edge of the subdial, they look a tad short in the rep. Also the pearl isn't centered and is a tad to low and touching the edges of the triangle. Besides that I don't see anything else other than what's been mentioned already in this thread.

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The other flaw I can find right now looking at the pictures on trusty's website vs. the gen is the length of the subdial hands, the hands should go all the way to the edge of the subdial, they look a tad short in the rep. Also the pearl isn't centered and is a tad to low and touching the edges of the triangle. Besides that I don't see anything else other than what's been mentioned already in this thread.

Didn't even notice those before. Thanks for pointing them out.

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