case side profile 16610T comp

[the_rymeister]

Thanks for the reply bud, I think I get what you mean. Great info

[torresp]

nope, 904 is only regarding the corrosion resistancy...we had this topic a few times with ppl that are in steal business and physics. It is the treatment of the steel. 904 steel doesn´t feel different than 316 on the surface, thats just the treatment.

recall if you touch the case side profile...its polished and rep and gen feel the same. its only about the brushed bracelet.

on a gen bracelet with polished midlinks, as on my 116234 DJ, the bracelet feels totally different as on my wm9 yachti but this is on the one hand due to the poor treatment of the steel and on the others due to the lousy craftmanship to quality.

my 2 cents

Yep, I know the theory but each time I touch any 316 gen and touch any 904 gen I feel them different. I even make a joke with my wife playing on distinguishing a 1680 from a 16610 only touching one side... But maybe it's a subconscious level, who knows.

[Eiderdaus]

this could be related to the age of the watch as well, if you haven´t repolished it in service

Thanks for the reply bud, I think I get what you mean. Great info

got nothing to do with the OP but just realized your avatar and want to share this with you

Shot at 2012-04-22

Shot at 2012-04-22

[the_rymeister]

Very nice mate is it gen ? I'm gathering parts at the moment to send to rolexaddict who's going to build me a 1675 cornino, just waiting on my base watch from josh.

[6now]

Thanks for the info. Any suggestions on what to use in polishing/brushing the 16610 bracelet to be gen like?

[Eiderdaus]

Very nice mate is it gen ? I'm gathering parts at the moment to send to rolexaddict who's going to build me a 1675 cornino, just waiting on my base watch from josh.

unfortunately it´s not. It´s a RA build, with the same specs as Akiras but I have a gen plexi on it.

[the_rymeister]

It looks amazing buddy. I can't wait to get mine

[freddk]

Do you know gen sub has different profile in each different series? Bazel heights are different as well.

M and D series have the most beefy lugs, K and Y have the thicker bezel yet shallower bezel teeth, and finally the V and the random initial series has the most current bezel height an proper depth bezel teeth. The gen V is the only one carries the golden proportion among all it's brothers and sisters.

thats right - the TC crown position is very close or similiar to a gen one with z-serial

left: TC V3 w removed rehaut - right: gen 16610 z-serial

TC

gen

TC

gen

Edited May 5, 2012 by freddk

[correctime]

Thanks for the info. Any suggestions on what to use in polishing/brushing the 16610 bracelet to be gen like?

Try this.....it makes a world of difference.

http://www.replica-w...40.html?t=43340

FWIW: I've owned and compared the gen 93250 Bracelets to reps as well as the 78790A SEL with the same comparison/appraisal (still have the gen 78790A)

with the treatment process in the link above done correctly, there's a 1 in 100 chance you could tell the 2 apart in a blind feel test.

As for the sheen and brushed appearance....I use steel wool and the 3-M gray colored scratch pads...they don't look any different either...even in the bright sunlight.

The gen clasp is the to go but IMHO the TC clasp on the V2 is the best rep 93250 clasp I've ever seen.

(and the crown on the TC 16610 is too.)

Edited May 6, 2012 by correctime

[cougar1]

I handled a gen sub before, I don't think the satin-y finish is anything special other than graduated very fine straight (i.e machine) brushing. A very similar effect can be done as correctime said with steel wool and the 3m pads. I use the scotchbrite stuff for rough finishing mostly but I've found using either the bergeon blocks or the generic garryflex blocks (just as good as the bergeon imo) are ideal for getting a very oem type finish on bracelets with some patient work.

The blocks also offer a bit more control over straight brushing compared to the pads. Start with the 5444-C block (or garryflex 60 or 120 grit) and work upto the 5444-A block (or 240 grit garryflex (300 grit if you can get one). When finished you should have a finish that looks very smooth brushed and without 'lines' that plague rough finishing. Check the finishing under incandescent light (shows up scratches better) to look for unevenness or curves where you lost the straight brushing and go back over until they are all gone. Best to do the bracelet in 4 sections for more control.

The final step then is to get an old toothbrush and bring the bracelet to the nearest sink and clean every inch thoroughly with soap and warm water, this step adds that perfect even sheen to the finish. I've found it's difficult to get much better than this, it restores omega bracelets to as near to factory finish as I've seen and I'm sure it would do just as well on rolex rep bracelets.

I find sometimes even on gen forums that too many people rebrush with the coarsest scotchbrite they can find, yes it gets rid of marks, but it doesn't refinish the bracelet correctly,...nothing worse than heavy curved or straight deep brushing lines to make a bracelet look half done. Also have heard of people using cape cod to add sheen to rolex bracelets, I really don't think this is necessary, if the brushing is done graduated with the blocks and up to a fine straight finish then the cape cod wont do anything, On the other hand using cape cod to 'sheen' up an already rushed or poorly brushed job is going to make the finish look like a dogs dinner anyway.

[correctime]

Great stuff cougar1.

I'm going to get that a try before my next Rock -n-Roll session.

[dan_189]

Hi Eiderdaus could you please rehost the pictures? Thanks

[the_rymeister]

Cheers cougar for the info on the polishing blocks, I normally use scotch bright only but like you said it looks good but not refined enough.