Movement issue, advice requested

[icoopernicus]

Hey there watchmakes/tinkerers, I'm looking for some advice regarding my new DSSD rep (it's a piece of crap by the way)

 

The specific issue in question is with winding the watch manually. When winding the movement the crown 'skips' about once per revolution, when I say skip, I mean loss of resistance in turning the crown, it then picks back up winding again. This happens if I am winding carefully or if I forcefully wind the watch with much authoritah. Could this be a keyless works issue or am I possibly looking at a bigger problem with this movement?

 

For the record, this is the worst quality watch I have purchased since I started collecting, the bezel is misaligned (not a huge deal and sort of suspected from the QC pics, so we'll call that my fault) and the crown does not thread in smooth (when I say not smooth I mean I feel like I am stripping every thread all the way in). There is a tight link in the bracelet, it will only move when forced this is even after cleaning and oiling the bracelet, also this isn't a huge deal. While just the bezel or just the tight link would not bother me too much, those two combined, with the crown and movement issue leave me very disappointed in my most recent purchase.

[freddy333]

Could be the keyless works or, if a Rolex model, a worn crown. The inner, hex-shaped section that holds the stem fits into complementary hex-shaped hole in the outer spring/plunger assembly. Over time/with use, the hex edges tend to become rounded, which allows the 2 sections of the spring/plunger assembly to 'jump' as the watch is wound, which feels like something is slipping during winding.  A common problem on vintage gen crowns. Only fix is to replace the crown or plunger assembly with a donor from another crown (read this).

[sneed12]

Honestly, doesn't sound like the keyless to me. It sounds like a couple of missing or damaged teeth on the ratchet wheel. The teeth on the castle wheel all mate at once, so even if one was damaged it shouldn't be a "once per revolution" problem, it should either slip or not slip.

[icoopernicus]

It's not quite once/rev but I can't make it much further than 1 revolution without it slipping. I was really hoping that I wouldn't have to take this one apart, I'm not very good at doing that without damaging the dial or hands in some way. I should have a swiss 2836 coming back from service/repair shortly, maybe I will swap that movement into this watch when it arrives, that will give me lots of time to inspect this one for the cause of the problem.

[icoopernicus]

MD - That's where my initial suspicion lies, I've done this repair before so hopefully I can work it out. Thanks for the advice guys, I may know some stuff, but the knowledge that some of you have is a wealth that is my pleasure to have access to and forgive me for exploiting it whenever I can. Possibly the castle wheel lever is not engaged with the castle wheel properly, allowing it to slip back and forth and not remain engaged with the crown gear.

 

Next, what to do about the almost certainly stripped threads on the crown/tube I just love/hate this hobby

[freddy333]

Next, what to do about the almost certainly stripped threads on the crown/tube I just love/hate this hobby

Replace the tube &, if also worn, crown.

[icoopernicus]

I know I don't want to do that but I don't know if I can live with how worn/stripped those threads are. I always have trouble sourcing the parts, I wish watch parts were readily available the way computer components are. I just grabbed my invicta and felt how buttery that crown screws in (in comparison to the DSSD), even a rep rolex should screw down much nicer than that invicta does.

[freddy333]

I just grabbed my invicta and felt how buttery that crown screws in (in comparison to the DSSD), even a rep rolex should screw down much nicer than that invicta does.

Remember that gen makers (like Invicta) have relatively good QC, while rep makers do not. While exceptions do occur, it is nonsensical to expect all rep watches to feel/function the same as their gen counterparts. This is why it is always a good idea to replace the tactile parts of a rep with gen parts. The only way to assure that buttery feel of a Rolex crown is to (properly) install a Rolex crown/tube. But keep in mind, also, that part of that 'feel' comes from the fit-&-finish of a Rolex movement, which an ETA or Asian copy can mimic (to varying degrees), but not fully copy.

[icoopernicus]

I would never expect this to feel like a gen, certainly not through the movement during winding. If I can get my hands on the parts then I am quite confident that I can turn this awful rep (that looks great by the way) into a pretty nice watch. This is my second one and between the two of them I may be able to make one good one

[freddy333]

That is the right approach & good luck.

[sneed12]

 I always have trouble sourcing the parts, I wish watch parts were readily available the way computer components are. 

They are, for legal watches. Not so much for counterfeits.

[icoopernicus]

Thanks MD, When I get around to cracking this thing open I'll take a look to see if I can make an adjustment with the castle wheel lever, it almost feels like its not doing its job.

[icoopernicus]

Sneed, I actually checked the bay quick and even gen crown/tube seemed unavailable in the 8mm DSSD size. Maybe I can contact the TD and explain the situation, perhaps he can get his hands on the parts I need.