Daytona Basel World 2016, suggested mods?

[Pombok]

This piece arrived 2 days ago, noting that I am a newbie with a keen eye, here's my assessment:

The cons:

When I received the QC pics it appeared at the dial and bezel were slightly misaligned, I queried/challenged this with the TD in 3 separate emails and was assured, each time, that it was in alignment. After receiving the watch it's clear that the bezel is not accurately aligned, I also think the fonts on the bezel are also not great. My lesson learned here is to ask the TD to source a different unit for consideration.

The Chronometer stop function is temperamental, sometimes requiring 3 attempts to work.

The bracelet appears terrific in accuracy, however slightly lightweight, this is me being picky really.

The pros:

The case appears to be accurate.

The dial seems accurate.

The sapphire and ar coating is great, damn this thing is shiny!

The lume is great.

The A7750 movement is almost silent, listening to the caseback I hear that perfect quick ticking sound, music to my ears. The time keeping is great, I haven't put it on a timegrapher but the QC stats were all excellent.

I'd like to hear the input from the community about how to improve the visual accuracy of this watch. Please be gentle, I'm a newbie!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[philwongnz]

I would say sell this and buy the JF non chrono version for a start as the case thickness is wrong with this.

Change the bezel to a better after market one with thicker font. Buy a BP bracelet with better SEL and then use the clasp that comes with your JF.

[Pombok]

I would say sell this and buy the JF non chrono version for a start as the case thickness is wrong with this.

Change the bezel to a better after market one with thicker font. Buy a BP bracelet with better SEL and then use the clasp that comes with your JF.

Hi Phil, can you please explain JF, BP and SEL are acronyms for?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[philwongnz]

JF is factory/maker their latest verison which doesn't have the chrono as the are using the 21J movement is gen spec with the watch thickness. BP is almost a maker (which should be youe watch) their bracelet had a SEL (solid end link) the link which touches the case is better as yours has a bug gap on the side.

[Pombok]

JF is factory/maker their latest verison which doesn't have the chrono as the are using the 21J movement is gen spec with the watch thickness. BP is almost a maker (which should be youe watch) their bracelet had a SEL (solid end link) the link which touches the case is better as yours has a bug gap on the side.

Thanks for the info, I'll do a bit of research into the JF.

If BP is the likely maker of my watch, then why doesn't it have a BP bracelet with SEL?

Any ideas where best to find an aftermarket bezel with thicker text?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[philwongnz]

Thanks for the info, I'll do a bit of research into the JF.

If BP is the likely maker of my watch, then why doesn't it have a BP bracelet with SEL?

Any ideas where best to find an aftermarket bezel with thicker text?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well selling your current watch without a bracelet might be harder.

Bezel I personally can source but might not fit the rep as is gen spec to 116520. Have a search on ebay and use the search here.

[Pombok]

6 hours ago, philwongnz said:

Well selling your current watch without a bracelet might be harder.

Bezel I personally can source but might not fit the rep as is gen spec to 116520. Have a search on ebay and use the search here.

Hey Phil, what is the Daytona non-chrono? I've searched and can't seem to find.

[philwongnz]

Example TD here:
http://puretime03.com/daytona-116500-ln-jf-best-edition-white-dial-on-ss-bracelet-a23j-same-thickness-as-genuine.html

[Pombok]

Phil, thanks again for the help. So let me try to capture the guidance:

1. Acquire the non-chrono JF version.
2. Acquire the BP bracelet which has better and tighter fitting SELs.
3. Use the clasp from the JF.
4. Pickup an aftermarket bezel, any idea of the approx cost of this? I checked on ebay and saw one for 140USD, however I the info was poor.

Now for the big question, would I need to replace the movement so that the watch could have a working chrono?

Not sure if the last part of my reply got posted:

Would I be able to get a replacement movement so the watch had a working chrono? Would this fit into the 11.5mm case depth? Any ideas what movement?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[philwongnz]

Phil, thanks again for the help. So let me try to capture the guidance:

1. Acquire the non-chrono JF version.
2. Acquire the BP bracelet which has better and tighter fitting SELs.
3. Use the clasp from the JF.
4. Pickup an aftermarket bezel, any idea of the approx cost of this? I checked on ebay and saw one for 140USD, however I the info was poor.

Now for the big question, would I need to replace the movement so that the watch could have a working chrono?

Spot on. Point 4, I personally get a bezel around the same price. You wouldn't be able to get a movement gen like (thin enough) with running chrono UNLESS you get a gen movement. Of which your JF case might not fit. So unless you have the time, money and patience to build a franken, you will have a semi gen like daytona without running chrono.

[Pombok]

I'm happy with the 15mm depth of the watch if it means I've got a working chrono, I don't think many would notice the 3.5mm depth difference whilst it's on the wrist.

Are you able to source a new bezel? I'd prefer to pick one up from someone who can vouch for the alignment. 

[newswire]

Good helping out a newb!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[philwongnz]

I'm happy with the 15mm depth of the watch if it means I've got a working chrono, I don't think many would notice the 3.5mm depth difference whilst it's on the wrist.
Are you able to source a new bezel? I'd prefer to pick one up from someone who can vouch for the alignment. 

I own a gen and a rep and trust me it feel very different with the extra thickness.

[Goranot]

Will be utterly grateful if someone can clarify difference between the following 2 watches is the first one an updated version of the second and do they have AR coating as standard

Bezel seems Matt Dull..is that just the picture

http://www.pf-818.com/0-0-rlds00056a-2016-daytona.html

http://chazingtime.co/product/daytona-2016-baselworld-116500-ln-jf-best-edition-white-dial-ss-bracelet-a7750/

[Pombok]

The link from pf-818 is where I purchased mine, see the original pics in this thread. I can confirm the AR coating is terrific, the watch is crystal clear and the bezel shines and catches the light beautifully.

The two issues with this watch are:

1. The thickness is 15mm whereas the gen is 11.5mm.
2. The markings on the bezel (on mine) are not aligned perfectly at 12,3,6&9. They are maybe 0.5mm misaligned. If you buy this watch, make sure you are very clear to Joshua (PF TD) that you wants unit with aligning bezel.

Hope that helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Goranot]

Thanks

In hindsight would you order the same watch again?

as common consensus seems to be JF quality is far better but issue with thickness but working chrono hence does that mean reliability of movement won't be as good or last as long as faux chrono version

 

is the AR  coating standard on both versions?

 

really appreciate advise as utterly confused which one to go for..but aesthetics and quality finishing are very i high on my priority list as once worn on wrist watch needs to look as close to gen as possible

 

Thankyou

 

 

Edited January 24, 2017 by Goranot

[Pombok]

I think the pf818 version is noob, I think, some of the guys on here will be able to advise better. The movement for the working chrono is great, the timegrapher stats are spot on, it's silent when you put it to your ear, it's a beautiful watch and yes I would buy it again, I'd just be much more firm with the TD about the bezel alignment, in hindsight i should have asked him to exchange it.

I think an aftermarket bezel can be purchased for about $140 and I may go down that route.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Goranot]

FYI

 

This is the JF with exact thickness but faux chrono

http://puretime03.com/daytona-116500...s-genuine.html

This BP version with working chron but thicker than gen

http://www.pf-818.com/0-0-rlds00056a-2016-daytona.html

This is JF version with working chrono but thicker than gen

http://chazingtime.co/product/dayton...racelet-a7750/


Take your pick

PF818 version is noob or BP? Please advise? 

if so does that mean JF quality is going to be better?

confused

[Pombok]

The JF version with working chrono appears inferior to the BP version due to the fitting of the SEL's. This was mentioned earlier on in this thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Goranot]

What about the Noob version.?

http://www.intime01.co/rollie/3404-daytona-2016-baselworld-116500-ln-1-1-noob-best-edition-white-dial-on-ss-bracelet-a7750.html

JfF base and Bp sels?

Edited January 24, 2017 by Goranot

[edgematic1]

I'd do this:

Noob bezel & dial, JF case, BP bracelet

The bezel of the noob is better than JF but not perfect.

 

[Goranot]

how is your Daytona getting on..any issues so far?

 

Am hoping to order one but not so sure if to order the working chrono like urs or the non working same thickness as genuine

 

is the thickness easily noticeable as would prefer working chrono otherwise it's a straight giveaway and without a genuine one next to it will it get picked up that it's a replica as never had a replica before..

 

Appreciate the advise and if I do order one what should I check out for on the QC pics..also is urs still functioning successfully as the 7750 movement  has pretty negative reviews

 

Once again. If you didn't have a genuine to hand would the thickness be noticeable and  make it obvious it was a replica?

 

 

 

Thankyou

 

[Pombok]

Hi Goranot,

I'm actually wearing my Daytona today and I still really like it. It's a stunning watch.

I think the A7750 movement is very good, no issues, it's damn near silent, keeps great time, power reserve of about 36 hours.

For the QC pics, I'd recommend looking at the dial, bezel alignment, that was my biggest issue if you read the original post. Check to see if the solid end links fit tightly.

The 5mm difference in thickness is the one thing you can't change, either you own this beautiful watch and live with the difference, or seek out a franken build Daytona with the correct thickness, this will most likely cost over $1000 though.

Overall I'm extremely happy with mine, she's a beaut!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Goranot]

Thanks ..appreciate the info..

 

Personally what would you say was biggest giveaway that it is a replica..this is in absence of a genuine..

if it's taken off to show someone would the thickness be a straight givaway

 

 Thanks

 

[Pombok]

I'd say:
1. The thickness
2. The misaligned bezel
3. The heft of the bracelet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk