Some bracelet trivia...

[automatico]

From a current WTB post:

 

"I’m after a Rolex jubilee datejust clasp for two tone watch..."

"Gen or rep?"

"Either depending on price." 

 

Almost all replica clasps have 6 adjustment holes and genuine clasps have 7 so if this is important, go for a genuine clasp or maybe find a replica clasp with enough room for a set of additional holes. 

I have drilled an extra set of holes in a few clasp caps but there is usually not enough room for them on most 6 hole replica caps because of the way the holes are spaced.

I drilled the extra holes by clamping a spare clasp cap to the clasp I wanted the extra holes in and drilled through the holes in the spare clasp to keep the drill bit lined up and keep it from breaking.  The holes are 1.0mm iirc, check to be sure.

 

You can also put a genuine 7 hole clasp cap on most replica 'Z' blade sets to make a passable clasp if you run across just the cap.

Genuine jubilee and oyster bracelets will accept the same clasp but the reference numbers can be different...or not.  Most replicas are probably made the same as genuine so the clasps should interchange between jubilee and oyster.

 

Fyi...

I have an original genuine 1980s 19mm SS/18k jubilee bracelet and the clasp has the same reference number as an original 1980s 20mm SS/18k DJ bracelet so you can not always count on the clasp to identify the exact type of bracelet it came from.

You can use a 19mm bracelet on a DJ etc made for a 20mm bracelet and the bracelet will not wear the insides of the lug tips away.  You will need the correct bracelet hoods (end pieces) though.

I have seen quite a few high mileage DJ, OPD, AK, submariners etc with the insides of the lug tips worn from the bracelet rubbing against them for years.  The looser the watch is worn = more bracelet flop and more lug wear.