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Rlx Expl 1655 "steve Mcqueen" Modded


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Posted

Rlx 1655 Explorer II vintage, as worn by Steve McQueen in his last movie "The Hunter", or so they say :whistling:

Case Trustys 1655 "1:1 top grade", smoothed, CGs & drilled lugholes

Fitted ETA 2893-2 GMT movement :thumbsupsmileyanim: , modified spacer ring

Fitted a 1570 caliber GMT hand from cwp after slight modifying

Dial and hour/min hands repainted

Fitted aftermarket Rivet hollow rolled link bracelet, different aftermarket endlinks, gen springbars

Gen tube/crown

Crystal is standard rep :wounded1: because 116 gen crystal and aftermarkets are too wide and even w/ fitting an o-ring or plastic spacer (between crystal & case)the whole thing loosens after a week. A 1680 gen crystal gives cyclope is too far to the left and only covers half the date window.

I don't want a compromised rep so back to the rep crystal hmm... Any crystal suggestions are appreciated

198917-2162.jpg

198917-2163.jpg

198917-2164.jpg

198917-2165.jpg

198917-2166.jpg

198917-2167.jpg

Guest RiverwindMDS
Posted

Man, That looks good... One day I'll ask you If you can do to mine the same heart transplant...

But you took the wrong case..

Posted
Man, That looks good... One day I'll ask you If you can do to mine the same heart transplant...

But you took the wrong case..

you're absolutely right! The "1:1 top grade rep" thing is total BS :rolleyes: . MBW didn't have anything better to offer <_<

However, I really like this watch because it looks sort of toy-ish and for sure I'll wear it at the next 70's party :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Posted

Hmm you could always glue down the crystal unless that leaves you with a massive gap between the crystal and the rehaut . i am feelin those crown gaurds how long did it take you to bring those into shape?

Posted

Looks good, Falco... Nicely done and a nice combination of parts.

I do believe that this is one model us vintage fanatics are sorely lacking in our world of good replications; maybe one of the factories will take the hint and offer up a quality rendition of the 1655 with the ability to accept genuine parts? One can only hope...

BTW... I love that McQueen burn out pic at the end... Awesome!

Posted
Hmm you could always glue down the crystal unless that leaves you with a massive gap between the crystal and the rehaut . i am feelin those crown gaurds how long did it take you to bring those into shape?

Tried gluing it down with hypocement, o-ring and a plastic spacer, but that made the bezel move after some days of wearing it.

The CGs not really finished, here's the CGs of a gen:

198935-2157.jpg

198935-2158.jpg

198935-2159.jpg

198935-2160.jpg

Guest RiverwindMDS
Posted

Every time I see that movement I love it more and more...

Posted
Looks good, Falco... Nicely done and a nice combination of parts.

I do believe that this is one model us vintage fanatics are sorely lacking in our world of good replications; maybe one of the factories will take the hint and offer up a quality rendition of the 1655 with the ability to accept genuine parts? One can only hope...

BTW... I love that McQueen burn out pic at the end... Awesome!

Thanks Ubi, yes they just need a gen crystal to fix that irritating discrepancy between case-crystal

Oh thanks Marco for the Ebay tip, always wondered about that JDM dealer. Seems to sell upgraded MBW type parts, unfortunately very expensive

Posted

Yeah i am not a massive fan of gluing things down... i like the secure feel of tension ... but you could always glue down the bezel ... since it isn't supposed to rotate. I never realized that the CGs were that pointy on the 1655... skeet and urul have mislead me again! The Trusty case aint too bad then for CG work .

Posted
Yeah i am not a massive fan of gluing things down... i like the secure feel of tension ... but you could always glue down the bezel ... since it isn't supposed to rotate. I never realized that the CGs were that pointy on the 1655... skeet and urul have mislead me again! The Trusty case aint too bad then for CG work .

Tried gluing the Bezel w/ hypocement including bottom of crystal.

I'll try to get some super dual-curing metal glue over the weekend, and maybe put in an extra o-ring will help.

Trusty case seemed good for CG mods.

Posted

Great watch and I love the movement! Nice job!

Did you you need to build a spacer between dial and movement as the movement is thinner than regular eta movmements? I'm currently working on a franken project with 2892-2, and so far have found I need a spacer that is 0.37mm between dial and movement. Otherwise the stem won't line up with crown tube. I'm wondering if you had that problem and what you used. I'm experimenting with sign vinyl. I've had a sign maker laminate sign vinyl until it is 0.37mm, and computer cut me a spacer that goes between the dial and movement without interfering with date wheel. It is similar to a gasket. I've had it cut 28mm OD and 25.5MM ID. Can't think of anything else to use at them moment.

Posted
Great watch and I love the movement! Nice job!

Did you you need to build a spacer between dial and movement as the movement is thinner than regular eta movmements? I'm currently working on a franken project with 2892-2, and so far have found I need a spacer that is 0.37mm between dial and movement. Otherwise the stem won't line up with crown tube. I'm wondering if you had that problem and what you used. I'm experimenting with sign vinyl. I've had a sign maker laminate sign vinyl until it is 0.37mm, and computer cut me a spacer that goes between the dial and movement without interfering with date wheel. It is similar to a gasket. I've had it cut 28mm OD and 25.5MM ID. Can't think of anything else to use at them moment.

Didn't need to make a spacer between dial-movement because this strange rep had no groove/slot cut out for the dial, dial's just lying there stabilised by the spacer ring which fitted almost (needed to trim it to fit movement holder screws because the 2893-2 is thinner than 2836)

I know your problem but I solved it in another way with another project.

If you know the silver ring that goes between the movement and dial, just make abot 20 notches (no cuts) upwards in it so that it will be raising the dial.

very easy if you know what I mean,if not I'll try to find a picture :D

Posted
Didn't need to make a spacer between dial-movement because this strange rep had no groove/slot cut out for the dial, dial's just lying there stabilised by the spacer ring which fitted almost (needed to trim it to fit movement holder screws because the 2893-2 is thinner than 2836)

I know your problem but I solved it in another way with another project.

If you know the silver ring that goes between the movement and dial, just make abot 20 notches (no cuts) upwards in it so that it will be raising the dial.

very easy if you know what I mean,if not I'll try to find a picture :D

I think I know what you mean, the ring that fits on top of the movement between movement and dial. I've got a few, but they won't fit my movement as they are made for 11.5''' 2824-2 movements, and I'm using a 12.5''' 2892-2 movement, and it did not come with this ring.

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