archibald Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Thanks for the advice... but as I want to get skilled on the SL powder (also about mixing and diluting it, I mean) I think it may be worth to have a go directly with that type of thing. (Actually, testing the Micro Mask is not my primaty target, it is just a secondary target). BTW, and just for anyone's information: I ordered the Bergeon Paste (and paid for it) on eBay from FindingKing about three months ago, and they did not deliver. I may be able to be helpful creating a template, but I need to know the following info: Would +/- .008mm be a tight enough tolerance for the openings on the template? Is clarity of the template an issue?--I'm thinking you don't want it clear to make alignment easier. I do know of a clear material that won't remove any paint--it's made specifically for masking. Can someone verify that there is a material used by manufaturers as a template?--I assume lume is applied this way at both rep and gen dial factories.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreww Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 A product that I used to use in my airbrushing days was called Frisk-It. Its a low-tack, clear film made specifically for this type of application. Hope this helps http://www.arttalk.com/frisk/masking.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted April 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 A product that I used to use in my airbrushing days was called Frisk-It. Its a low-tack, clear film made specifically for this type of application. Hope this helps I just tried something similar to this, but the problem with sheet or liquid types of masking is that you mask the entire dial and then cut out the sections you want to paint the lume through. In my case, I have not been able to figure out how to remove the masking material for those sections that I want to paint through without damaging the dial underneath (I used a razor blade). So unless someone has a better way to cut out the masking, I think using painters tape may be the better option since there is nothing to cut (the tape is placed as an outline around the parts you need to paint). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archibald Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 I just tried something similar to this, but the problem with sheet or liquid types of masking is that you mask the entire dial and then cut out the sections you want to paint the lume through. In my case, I have not been able to figure out how to remove the masking material for those sections that I want to paint through without damaging the dial underneath (I used a razor blade). So unless someone has a better way to cut out the masking, I think using painters tape may be the better option since there is nothing to cut (the tape is placed as an outline around the parts you need to paint). There are all kinds of low-tack materials available--frisk-it seems to be a little on the strong side. But, if you guys who have experience w/ it think it will work, I have 2 1/2 sheets of it on my desk right now. I can cut to within .008mm of accuracy, provided I do the Illustrator file--which I'd be happy to do as long as someonce can verify that a stencil accurate to a hundredth of a mm won't end up ruining my 111 when I try luming for the first time. Also, even if the stencil works perfectly aren't there all kinds of potentially disasterous procedures needed to mix and apply the lume? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted April 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Also, even if the stencil works perfectly aren't there all kinds of potentially disasterous procedures needed to mix and apply the lume? It depends on the type of lume used. In my case, since I am only interested in luming vintage Subs and Sea Dwellers that by now would have relatively little glow left, the Bergeon Luminous Paste sold by Ofrei and other supply houses is perfect. It comes as a paste (and looks alot like Tritium when it dries) that you thin with water, food coloring or water-based paint. As I envision the process, once the non-painted parts of the dial have been masked (leaving only the hour markers that you want to relume), you can use a Q-tip or paint brush to quickly and easily apply the lume (dabbing with a Q-tip produces a very nice texture). Anyone who has ever painted something with multiple sections of painted and non-painted areas knows that the quality of the finished work is directly related to the quality and time spent masking before the first drop of paint is applied. That is, most of the time and effort goes into masking the parts you do not want painted. Once these are masked, applying the lume should take just a few seconds since you won't need to worry about getting lume where it does not belong. It has been a very long day, so I hope I am making sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sssurfer Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I may be able to be helpful creating a template, but I need to know the following info: Would +/- .008mm be a tight enough tolerance for the openings on the template? Is clarity of the template an issue?--I'm thinking you don't want it clear to make alignment easier. I do know of a clear material that won't remove any paint--it's made specifically for masking. Can someone verify that there is a material used by manufaturers as a template?--I assume lume is applied this way at both rep and gen dial factories.... Hi John, thanks for entering into the subject. But I see you are heading towards screen printing... sorry, I have no experiences or info about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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