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Planet Ocean orange monster going under the knife , lol


rbj69

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well for me the asian dials font and stuff is whiter and brighter(or should i say less blurred and not as crooked) than the 4th gen. po , but the markers on the 4th is more correct size and the logo is more correct in shape and size, so i said why dont i take the asian dial and swap the markers from one to the other and make the logo spacing right and being the asian dial has the correct number fonts (6,9,12) and the white writing is so much more bolder and brighter and more correct sized , then i would have a perfect dialed po , so here is the beginning of this task , u know me i cant let it be as is lol

so u r not confused, the omega lettering under the logo is not quite as big on the genuine more like the asian and the 4th has a slight blurred look to it if u really look at it good especially uncased, and if u look at the letter "r" at the end of the seamaster on the asian it is more correct , and also the number in orange r more correct on the asian dial , the 4ths have a white outline and r too thick, and on the 4th the word professional is in a slight slant from the word seamaster, but not at a glance noticeable but it is when u look carefully

now my question for u guys is what color is the lume

C1 super or C3 super, some pics look like one and the other of the gens. lol thanks

here is a side by side comparison of the dials , u can tell by the asian has the smaller markers but the reall pretty print and the omega logo is round metal and the 4th's is flat and more raised which looks like the genuine

22783-1626.jpg

heres the marker size difference

22783-1627.jpg

heres one installed so u can see the difference beside the smaller ones

22783-1628.jpg

here it is with all markers changed over to the asian dial and the logo changed over as well and it is in a better position, dont u think?

22783-1629.jpg

so do u think this dial is better now? tell me your thoughts, also keep in mind it is blowed up so it really looks better in person

also notice the orange on the 4th is lighter in color as the asian is a darker orange and it appears to be more correct to me from what i have seen but the main thing was the numbers were more correct sized and crispier looking to me and the outline is almost unbareable

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something else i notice comparing a upclose pic of the genuine to what i have now is the color of the dial numbers and the end tip of the second hand r different in color as well

here is genuine

22800-1621.jpg

here is what i have after i did the dial changing stuff , remember they r blowed u (meaning magnified)

22800-1622.jpg

22800-1623.jpg

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How did you remove the Omega logo? Was it easy?...

Looks really great now.

Now you only need the Nickel movement holder, Insignia on rotor and the engraved 'Planet Ocean' (with capital P and O) case back and it will be perfect.

Edited by Rolexman
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How did you remove the Omega logo? Was it easy?...

Looks really great now.

Now you only need the Nickel movement holder, Insignia on rotor and the engraved 'Planet Ocean' (with capital P and O) case back and it will be perfect.

i dont really care about the inside of the watch as long as it is eta as far as the logo goes on the rotor but i dont like the plastic retaining ring so i will make me a stainless steel one for it soon as i get to it lol

my main concerns r the outer appearance, the funny thing is the asian po has the perfect engraved PLANET OCEAN on the case back but the middle logo is a dark grey sticker , lmao so i still like the 4th caseback better even if the lettering is etched , but mainly the dial was my concern , cause that logo and the white print was a little blurred and the orange numbers were a bit too thick with that hideous white lining around it , and now i think im really as close as u will get on a dial without buying genuine , thanks guys for your comments

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its easy to me but i can see many messing up , it is glued on to the face with like a rubber cement type glue and u have to be very careful and have some of the finest point tweezers that actually grip good and gently remove it , i started on one end and wiggled gently and worked it around and then once i could get under it i simply pulled straight up on it till the rubber string let go lol not a job for the faint hearted for sure lol hope this helps

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I ain't gonna touch that thing =)

that was funny u sounded like a good ole boy from my neck of the woods lmao

someone asked could i put the finished product up but i cant till i reieve my replacement watch , when i do i will put it all together like i like it and then u will see it in action on by-thors wrist checks lol

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its easy to me but i can see many messing up , it is glued on to the face with like a rubber cement type glue and u have to be very careful and have some of the finest point tweezers that actually grip good and gently remove it , i started on one end and wiggled gently and worked it around and then once i could get under it i simply pulled straight up on it till the rubber string let go lol not a job for the faint hearted for sure lol hope this helps

Were there any glue residues on the dial and how did you remove them?... could you make a pic of the tweezer ya used so I can compare it to mine?

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hello i used 01 real fine tweezers and i used flat tweezers looks like two small screwdrivers on each end, and there was a tad of residue but the markers r bigger than the ones on the asian so it cover it up after i was done, the logo left one tiny string of the flexible type glue and i removed it very carefully with the very fine tweezer making sure i didnt touch the dial and or scratch it, make sure to put your dial in a holder and secure it in the small vise so all u have to tend with is your hands and tweezers lol also remember im always working on tidious stuff that is tiny and delicate so it is like second nature for me , in other words BE VERY CAREFUL , i dont know if u r like me but one scratch i cant live with that and it will bug me to death lol

also a disclaimer anything u attempt at home that i tell u how i did it is not my responsibility , so in other words i will teach u but dont blame me if u mess something up , lmao

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i dont like having to glue a dial down to the movment so i just purchase a new dial foot installer , so i can remove the feet on the asian dial and put new feet on it to fit the eta swiss movment, i always wanted one but they r very expensive u know ,

i know u wouldnt blame me but i just like saying that every now and then lol

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PS: What is the Omega logo made off?... is it flexible or can it easily break (aluminum, plastic etc.) ?

yes it can break but it is stiff enough , the thing is i dont recommend glueing this one to the movment only because it has so much space in the backside so a good jolt could break it free and or the heat from the sun etc. then it may pull through and your hands will come off and could scar your dial up, i ordered a dial feet soldering tool that is specifically made to set feet on a dial , and that will solve this problem

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