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Omega Seamaster pro Chrono


dastrix

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just received the 41mm black SMP sword hands from Josh ($218 version) and it had a very misalligned bezel, but the watch is very good--

The bezel pops off rather easily, and the spring stays put, so I easily fixed the bezel issue. Just be sure not to lose the little post that sticks up at the 11 o'clock position--it will fall right out, and be impossible to find on the floor. (Believe me on this).

The bezel insert is easily pushed out from behind once the bexel is off--it's attached by a flexible rubber type glue, and is easily repositioned correctly, I used a very tiny bit of Gorilla Glue, and most of the still-tacky original glue. The fix really improves the look of the watch.

And my jeweler, who just resized the band, was excited to see one of his favorite classic watches, he complimented me on a great watch.

Of course, it's heavy, substantial, and he certainly had no reason to doubt it was a gen. It's nice to have a watch that's a classic, but that strangers don't automatically question because there are so many knock-offs of.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Just received the 41mm black SMP sword hands from Josh ($218 version) and it had a very misalligned bezel, but the watch is very good--

I had been doing research on bezel realignment in anticipation of fixing it on my Josh SMP Chrono...but it arrived today and was perfect, with pearl, 3, and 9 markers on points. Woohoo...go Josh!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest LastDiplomat

I think you've got a misconception about which part of the bezel is being referred to as misaligned, vaca22. On the SMP Chrono (as well as models of the 2531.80 and 2220.80 aka "Bond" Seamasters), the bezel numbers (20, 30, 40, 50) and silver lines should line up with the metal rivets/points on the outside. It has nothing to do with whether the pearl lines up with the 12 o'clock marker. Here's a rather obnoxious pic that points out the area I'm talking about on a gen 2220.80:

bezel.jpg

Notice the metal parts directly below the red highlights and how they line up to the markings on the blue bezel. Often, the easiest way to correct this on a replica is to warm up the face of the watch with a hairdryer for a few seconds to melt the glue and then slowly push the blue part into place.

Edit: Looks like By-Tor and I were posting at the same time since I didn't see his reply when I was typing. Sorry for the repeat info.

Edited by LastDiplomat
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I cant get my bezel off, and i tried the hairdryer technique, and the bez insert wouldn't budge. Now what.

The options are limited without special tools.

Some have used knives or screwdrivers under the insert by where the pearl is to pry the insert off. RISKY. You can scratch the insert, bezel, etc...and possibly bend the insert depending on how it's glued down.

Some have used some tool to pry off the bezel itself (protect the case!!!)...and in doing so...some have bent their bezel as they pried too hard.

The proper method is to use a bezel replacement tool...but that has added cost for a specialty tool.

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