predfan2001 Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 (edited) I recently swapped a Tudor dial to one of my Subs and all has been great till the other day. The dial I used had bent mounting tabs so I removed them and used a tiny bit of adhesive to secure the dial to the movement. Well after a few weeks of use, the dial slipped. I think it is because the adhesive I used was a hard dry adhesive and the bond broke loose. I really like this watch for a daily beater and I was wondering what the best method is for securing the dial? I'm sure this is the same situation that one runs into when swapping a dial in a MBW. I've heard dial dots are the way to go but I really don't see much room for application on the movement. Any ideas? Thanks in advance Edited September 25, 2007 by predfan2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rag9fx Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 there are these adheasive "mounting" dots that you can secure the dial on to the movment with ... i forgot the technical term for these ... can someone chime in if they know what i am talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
predfan2001 Posted September 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 Dial dots are basicly tiny pieces of double sided tape. The ones I see on the bay' are 3mm round. I just don't see room on the 2836-2 ETA movement for these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cableguy Posted September 20, 2007 Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 can i ask where you got the dial? i would LOVE to turn my old ETA sub into a military Tudor Sub with snow flake hands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
predfan2001 Posted September 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 I'll give you an answer in another thread.....kind of gets this thread going the wrong direction. I still need help with this if anybody knows. I have dial dots on the way but I still don't see much room to install them. Other ETA movements are nearly flat at the dial side. The 2836-2 appears to have some delicate parts at the dial surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cableguy Posted September 20, 2007 Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 thanks.... have you tried GS Hypo cement? it seems to be the go to glue for watch repairs...idk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreeman420 Posted September 20, 2007 Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 If you want to do it right you can buy actual dial feet and either solder them or use a two part metal epoxy to adhere them to the dial. The feet can be purchased at ofrei for pennies. Be sure to line them up correctly with the holes in the movement. This can get tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
predfan2001 Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 Ok, maybe I misunderstood what dial dots are. I received the ones I ordered from a watch parts supplier today and I don't have a clue what they could be used for. They are not double sided, just little tan paper dots that are single sided adhesive. They look like hour markers for a vintage Submariner. ????? I guess I'll look for some very thin double sided tape at the local hobby store. I'm afraid if I use any type of adhesive it will get in the movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWG Technical Posted September 22, 2007 Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 Your dial dots are indeed correct, you peel the brown paper off, revealing a dot of glue below it. However, they will do you no good on this model, for all the reasons you mentioned. The best way to secure these dials with no feet, is to glue the datewheel spacer ring to the dial, then glue the dial/datewheel spacer ring to the movement. GS cement will work, but you have to be careful with it as it runs and can get where it shouldn't. I use contact cement to glue the dial to the spacer ring, and then I use a slight amount of GS to attach this assembly to the movement. RG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
predfan2001 Posted September 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 (edited) Your dial dots are indeed correct, you peel the brown paper off, revealing a dot of glue below it. However, they will do you no good on this model, for all the reasons you mentioned. The best way to secure these dials with no feet, is to glue the datewheel spacer ring to the dial, then glue the dial/datewheel spacer ring to the movement. GS cement will work, but you have to be careful with it as it runs and can get where it shouldn't. I use contact cement to glue the dial to the spacer ring, and then I use a slight amount of GS to attach this assembly to the movement. RG Well I gave it a shot. I used a 2 part epoxy to adhere to datewheel spacer to the back of the dial so it's on there for good. I used an old junk movement to set up and align the dial and ring. After the epoxy set up, I removed the dial from the junk movement and cleaned any excess from the inside of the spacer ring. Then I tested the epoxy on an old movement and dial. I just applied about 6 tiny dabs on the movement where the datewheel spacer sits. It held secure yet it could still be popped back apart with about the same force it takes to pop dial feet loose, which is important should the watch need service. So now I am waiting for the epoxy to set up and if all goes well I'll be wearing my watch again soon. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, this is a new movement and I hope it functions correctly. It is one of those 2836-2s that is silver with turning swirls...the movement looks really good, to bad it's going in a watch with a solid caseback. Thanks The Zigmeister!! Oh BTW, the reason a new movement is going in is because I already tried another adhesive that ran and got in the movement. It also stringed out really bad and got all over the datewheel. That's why I used epoxy this time. I mixed it up and let it started to sit up a tad before application. As always with watch repairs......lessons learned. Edited September 23, 2007 by predfan2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
predfan2001 Posted September 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 (edited) Well, I'm finished with this watch. I mean FINISHED! DONE! OVER!. This watch has [censored] me off more than once since I received it from Andrew. Now that I am putting it back together with a "new" movement I purchased, I find that the second hand won't go on. Guess why? There is already a pin from a second hand broke off in it. New my [censored]. Time to cut my losses. Sorry that I am venting but it is upsetting to spend as much time as I have screwing with this watch just to find I've been screwed over on the movement. Edited September 23, 2007 by predfan2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
predfan2001 Posted September 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 (edited) Ok, I just earned my first noobie badge. The whole problem with this movement was my misunderstanding. It all became clear when I inspected the movement under magnification. I had assumed by looking with my bare eyes that a second hand had a pin that inserted into a tube. When I had no luck getting the second hand on I noticed a pin sticking out so I figured someone had attempted to install a second hand and broke it off. The second hand appeared to have a pin on the back that held it in the movement. After inspecting other movements I have I saw that they all have a pin sticking out for the second hand and the second actually has a tiny tube that inserts over the pin. I feel so stupid overlooking something so simple and thank goodness I didn't message the seller of the movement. I guess I need to invest in one of those magnification lamps (or get glasses). Now I have the watch reassembled but with the Submariner dial back in it. The Tudor dial is too small even though it fits in the rehaut. These watch movements evidently rely on the dial fitment in the case more than I thought. The Tudor dial is 1mm-1.5mm smaller than the Sub dial and I couldn't keep the movement tight in the case. Anybody need a Tudor dial? lol Yes, I feel like an idiot....I've disassembled and reassembled watches several times and never caught this, another lesson learned! My wokky Sub lives again! Edited September 26, 2007 by predfan2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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