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Vintage "Silix" Sub follow up


predfan2001

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I hate to call them the "Silix" Sub (that's what many here refered to them as) since other collectors offered them, but maybe the "no crown guard" Subs. I haven't heard much on these since the hype wore down. I was one of the first to jump on the band wagon and got the 5508 style. It' a great cheap rep but of course mine had to problem with the lugholes being drilled too far in which made a band swap nearly impossible. I ended up just adding a skunk NATO to mine. I just noticed that the ETA versions appear to have better bezel teeth, more like the gens.

Have there been any improvements made to these or are they still the same?

S6300236.jpg

Edited by predfan2001
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I guess we will have to live with them. They are the best we can get.

I asked Jay (Silix) about the prospects for a coin edge bezel and maybe a larger and more authentic crown but he said that the demand was so small that he couldn't make it happen. But I'm happy with what I got (5510) as it's the best and only one available.

I'm beating it up as fast as I can and it's looking better every day!

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I'll let you know soon, as I have just got the shipping confirmation that mine has got through customs and is on the way home! Can't wait! :lol:

I've got another one on the way too. I'm just buying it to part out but if the lugholes are better positioned, I may use the case on my first one.

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The ETA bezel looks more accurate but the case & back appear to be thicker. The Asian has the terrific slim case which I doubt would work for ETA 2836. I wonder if the ETA model's bezel assembly would work on the thin case. :unsure:

I need to order one of the Asians to play with. It is a neat looking watch and the best no CG case out there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received my 2nd "no cg" vintage Sub this week. I bought this one to part out, I mainly just needed the dial and crystal for a project but the rest of the parts should come in handy.

The lugholes on this one are just like the first one. Since the band seems secure, I swapped the movement and bezel from my first one. The funny thing is that when I removed the dial, I found a black date wheel :lol: . I guess this may be common in asian movement reps but its the first time I've seen that.

S6300795.jpg

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Here's a couple of pics of my own "5508", newly arrived from silix. I am very happy with this bearing in mind the price, and would recommend one to those in doubt. I am about to start the obligatory vintaging process. Will update pics when done. Mine came with the red triangle at the bezel insert position, though the one I ordered had the white triangle. Think I prefer the red, TBO, so have not complained :D

Sub-5508-02.jpg

Sub-5508-01.jpg

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Here's a couple of pics of my own "5508", newly arrived from silix. I am very happy with this bearing in mind the price, and would recommend one to those in doubt. I am about to start the obligatory vintaging process. Will update pics when done. Mine came with the red triangle at the bezel insert position, though the one I ordered had the white triangle. Think I prefer the red, TBO, so have not complained :D

/quote]

That bezel insert is begging for bleach :D

Just a thought, I can tell you that the crystals are just barely secure in these. If your thinking vintage, pop the bezel and drop it in bleach but keep an eye on it. These fade pretty quick. The inserts are very secure on these so you can drop the whole thing in the bleach. Pop out the crystal and tint the markers and hands a little. Use a minimal amount of clear epoxy on the rim of the crystal and reinstall it. Then pop the bezel back on.

If not, it looks pretty good the way it is. Kudos on the NATO. The olives are my favorite!

S6300812.jpg

(the red stuff on my insert is blood. Opps! I drilled my finger while drilling the lugholes. Didn't notice that is was on there till I saw this pic)

S6300010.jpg

Edited by predfan2001
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That bezel insert is begging for bleach :D

Agreed.. I am going to try that technique. How long did you leave yours to achieve that look?

Just a thought, I can tell you that the crystals are just barely secure in these.

Thanks for that. I was going to pull the movement out tomorrow, then chuck the case in the tumble dryer (on cool) for 10 minutes to age it a couple of decades or so. Looks like I may have lost the crystal. I will remove it first now :D

Pop out the crystal and tint the markers and hands a little. Use a minimal amount of clear epoxy on the rim of the crystal and reinstall it. Then pop the bezel back on.

All good tips predfan, I will try them, thanks!

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Agreed.. I am going to try that technique. How long did you leave yours to achieve that look?

Thanks for that. I was going to pull the movement out tomorrow, then chuck the case in the tumble dryer (on cool) for 10 minutes to age it a couple of decades or so. Looks like I may have lost the crystal. I will remove it first now :D

All good tips predfan, I will try them, thanks!

I left the bezel in a cup with bleach (face up so I could keep an eye on it) for about 2 hrs. I really didn't want it to fade this much but I like it. I have left some in for days that barely turned grey.

I've never tried tumbling. I did the "jar of gravel" method once but it barely did anything. Plus grit is a watches enemy. Since then I like pecking the case up with a drill chuck key. Pecks bumps and scratches.

I don't know if you've ever had one of these apart or not, but the stem release is a tiny pin that sticks up from the movement, unlike an ETA. I use the tip of my jewelers/pointy tweezers to release it. The movement is only retained by a plastic holder. Pulling the movement would be the best bet for case and dial mods, I just recommended the easy way.

Good luck and show up some pics :yeah:

Edited by predfan2001
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