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inside my GMT II ceramic


Star69

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Well another nail in the coffin of my 2836-2 "Swiss" ETA SSD - it has the different spring thing... I looked at Freddy's chart and my Explorer (which according to EuroTimez's tells was real) has the correct retaining spring (KIF setup) - while the SSD has the one that The Zigmeister says is wrong. And to boot, he says the movement is not very good.

Great.

But thanks for the info!

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I agree with The Zigmeister -- that 'KIF' setting's singular cutout is a dead give-away that this is not a standard issue ETA (unless ETA or the company that makes the KIF components has changed their design). I have a guide that illustrates the standard KIF layout (near the end)

shocktypechart.jpg

CHS = Correct Hand Stack

Freddy, could this be the spring in the OP's movement?:

fb3043b.jpg

That is from a 2824-2 listed on Otto Frei.

I am clinging to the last dying hope that my SSD 2836-2 is gen.

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I think that if we are thinking about movement swaps to make the watch work the same way as the genuine you can get one of two movements.

1. gen rolex of course.

2. Omega GMT movement. My genuine Seamaster GMT works exactly the same way as the Rolex GMT movement. Not sure if all of the hands (especially the GMT hand) would continue to fit) but that would be the way to go.

Edited by cskent69
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Freddy, could this be the spring in the OP's movement?:

fb3043b.jpg

That is from a 2824-2 listed on Otto Frei.

I am clinging to the last dying hope that my SSD 2836-2 is gen.

Yes, that is the way it should look. 3 cutouts in the retaining ring. You remove/install the spring by rotating it (the spring) so the 3 points of the spring align with those 3 cutouts in the ring. I am guessing that the idea behind the Asian version is that you squeeze the spring together & then monkey it out through the single cutout. I have never worked on 1 of those, so this is only conjecture.

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Yes, that is the way it should look. 3 cutouts in the retaining ring. You remove/install the spring by rotating it (the spring) so the 3 points of the spring align with those 3 cutouts in the ring. I am guessing that the idea behind the Asian version is that you squeeze the spring together & then monkey it out through the single cutout. I have never worked on 1 of those, so this is only conjecture.

Thanks!

This may sound stupid, but are you and The Zigmeister saying the first two pics in the thread - the OP's movement, is NOT like this - because to me it looks like this spring and it looks, now that I understand what the cutout is, that there are three. But The Zigmeister said there was only one and to look at the "Kif" and that "this" wasn't it... Was he talking about the OP's movement?... because it looks like a different spring than the KIF on your chart, but it looks just like the spring on the ETA for sale at Otto Frei.

The reason I am interested is that my SSD has that exact spring - the "Novodiac" it seems. If that spring is consistent with a gen movement then maybe there is still a chance I got a gen movement...

Still hopeful,

Thanks again!

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The reason I am interested is that my SSD has that exact spring - the "Novodiac" it seems. If that spring is consistent with a gen movement then maybe there is still a chance I got a gen movement...

If the anti-shock spring on the top of your watch's balance looks like the 1 in the illustration I posted (with 3 cutouts), then it is probably a gen ETA. But, again, the ONLY way I am aware of to be sure is to disassemble the movement & inspect the parts, as Ziggy indicated.

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The omega caliber 1128 works the same way that the Rolex's does. Hour hand adjustable that is connected to the date. I.e. You change the date by running the hour hand around the dial independant of the gmt hand. I believe that it is actually a heavily modified 2893. But not sure on that last point.

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Guest carlsbadrolex
Yes I believe I have seen all versions of the ETA 2836 modified GMT movements produced.

Other than the genuine ETA 2893-2 GMT movement, I stopped servicing or even luming the modified GMT movements.

Simply because they are too problematic. Gears breaking in two pieces when you remove the hands, hands slipping, poor quality parts, poor design, etc... The failure rate is very high on this model. The 2893-2 models have had zero returns or failures.

If you get one and it works, don't frig with it, leave it alone and enjoy it...

RG

Hmmm, I just had someone tell me that they had just shipped a Swiss CHS GMT IIc to you for service.

I guess they must have been mistaken, and are shipping it to someone else. I guess I should just leave mine on the winder and look at it run at +2 seconds over 8 days.

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What Omega calibre are you talking about that works like a Rolex 3185? I know none...

IMHO - the shock assembly in the questioned movement is the rather new Incabloc Novodiac spring - also seen in 6497's...

So - yeah - the Omega Caliber is 1128. Now, the really interesting thing is that the Omega calibers are in essense ETA's. That is why you can swap gen dials and hands in the UPO and everything works perfectly. I think that the real Omega PO movement is a modified 2892.

So- the question is, if you had a 1128 movement - and wanted to swap it into the GMT2C CHS - I am pretty sure that the hour and minute hands would work - but would the GMT hand - and the datewheel work.

We have not seen the other side of the CHS movement (the face side) and that would be the real tell.

Edited by cskent69
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If the anti-shock spring on the top of your watch's balance looks like the 1 in the illustration I posted (with 3 cutouts), then it is probably a gen ETA. But, again, the ONLY way I am aware of to be sure is to disassemble the movement & inspect the parts, as The Zigmeister indicated.

Thank you Freddy.

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Wow, that is indeed interesting. Thaks for the info. Still, it looks like the GMT hand is below the hour hand though thus disqualifying as a 3185 substitute.

Ahh -- got you. I have not looked that closely. I was more commenting on the way that the movement works - which is the same.

I will have to check out the order of the Omega GMT hands. Thanks!

I wonder if that means that the ICHS hands would work on it?

Edited by cskent69
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Kelster,

Just want to make sure that what I posted a while ago is still valid...

Can you confirm what what I posted in my section "how to differtiate between copy vs GEN ETA" if the big gears on your COPY ETA is...

1. BIG SILVER GEAR is POLISHED --- looks like it from your picture.. ?

2. THE SMALLER YELLOW GEAR has less holes as the gen ?

3. The half-polished small silver gear ?

ETA2836-2-vs-COPY-ETA-2836-2-2.jpg

ETA2836-2-vs-COPY-ETA-2836-2.jpg

Click link HERE to original thread...

Edited by EuroTimez
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Hi Kelster,

Just want to make sure that what I posted a while ago is still valid...

Can you confirm what what I posted in my section "how to differtiate between copy vs GEN ETA" if the big gears on your COPY ETA is...

1. BIG SILVER GEAR is POLISHED --- looks like it from your picture.. ?

2. THE SMALLER YELLOW GEAR has less holes as the gen ?

3. The half-polished small silver gear ?

Click link HERE to original thread...

sorry - was just an one night stand ;) don't have have the watch anymore :)

Frank

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