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tall cannon pin and hourwheel eta 6497-1


klocklind1

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Hi all!

Yesterday I took apart my fiddy and where going to change the hourwheel and cannonpin for the longer ones,( 2,15 and 3,15 mm from Cousins !) BUT it was already the longer ones in it !!!??

I read somewhere here that the SWISS eta 6497-1 ( with novodiac shockabsorber ! ) ALWAYS has the longer cannonpin/hourwheel ?

The finish on the cannonpin ( the swiss one I got from Cousins !) is a lot more nicely finished ( more polished at the top ! ) than the chineese one in the watch, so perhaps it was worth buying a new one anyway!?

So now I have to grid the minutehand down a little bit to make it flush with the cannonpin !

My question is: Is it like this with ALL minutehands on the fiddy, that You have to grid the minutehand down a little bit to make it flush with the cannonpin?

Do You have to sand down the minutehand on the DSN hands to ?

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Interesting,

I have fitted gen ETA cannon pins & had no issues with sanding down the minute, however both the 3.15 cannon pins I've had from cousins have both needed a fraction skimmed off the hands.

It could be just a fluke that the hands have longer stubs but if anyone has a gen ETA cannon pin that could be measured it may be worth comparing there heights

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I have the real eta cannonpin ( 3,15 mm, the longest one ! ) from Cousins and there is a big gap there ( minutehand ! )

So You say that the minutehand did need a little "skimmed off"?

About how much did You have to sand the minutehand down ?

How did You do it ?

Interesting,

I have fitted gen ETA cannon pins & had no issues with sanding down the minute, however both the 3.15 cannon pins I've had from cousins have both needed a fraction skimmed off the hands.

It could be just a fluke that the hands have longer stubs but if anyone has a gen ETA cannon pin that could be measured it may be worth comparing there heights

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I'm sure the correct way would be to take a measurement & work to that but I usually just sand down to around half the original size

The only problem with my way of doing it is you may take too much off & the hands could touch so don't get too heavy handed with it, I would normally do a dry run of fitting the hands without the dial so I know roughly how much is needed to come off & anyway its not a huge deal to fit them then take them off again to take some more off.

Tools for the job are highly technical :), my wife's nail file(the sandpaper looking one's) & a small round needle file to gently deburr it.

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