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Dw Kit, Housing A Vlj72 ..


vlaletom

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Hi

I am in the process of building my first V7 project.

Got a very nice longine V72, that is getting fited into DW v72 case kit.

The dial and hands parts were rather straight forward.

But i'm having more problems with the casing.

Actually i have 2 main problem:

The first one is the stem, the longine one was 1.1 (or maybe 1.2 mm), in searching in the forun i founded out that i do need a tap 10 stem (0.9 mm).

So my first question is where can i found a V72 tap 10 stem, i have searched usual eshop (ofrei, borel, cousinsuk) and could not find a stem listed for the V72.

Can i try to use generic tap 10 stem ?

Or is it possible to go with an extension ? it seams tricky as the stem in the 6263 case as to be quite short.

My second problems are the pusher.

If i screw them fully, they constantly press the lever, not allowing enough space for the lever to reset properly.

How do you guys dealed with this ? did you have to cut or lime off the pin in them to make it a little shorter ? or am i missing somthing ?

Last question is what tool is the best to screw the pusher, if i do it by hands i guess it wont be screwed firmly enough and will unscrew when releasing the locking screw.

here is a pic off the ongoing work

142180-16704.jpg

Any help apreciated

thanks

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I've faced all of those problems, so I'll give you some tips from my experience:

With regard to the proper stem, you will find the answer in this post:

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=139255

The DW pushers are a bit too long. You will need to trim them down a bit. This is best done with the pushers removed from the case (I actually disassemble the pushers, by removing the circlip, but this is not necessary). You can use a swiss file or a dremel with a grinding stone to shorten the pushers. You should take off a small amount, and then test fit the pushers...repeat if necessary.

My technique for installing the pushers is this: First, I tap holes, to clean up threads, so that the pushers will screw in without resistance. Next, while holding each pusher with my fingernails, I back off the screw-down portion until it stops, and continue to unscrew until the pusher spins in my fingernails. Then, I put a drop of blue Loctite in each hole, and I screw in each pusher, not stopping until the screw-down portion is fully screwed down. (Remember to use the pusher to case gaskets, if you have them). Leave it until the Loctite dries, and you will have tight, secure pushers, that will not back out.

I also noticed that you don't have case clamps. Even though the DW case is a pretty tight fit with the VJ72, I still recommend that you use the case clamps (particularly if you plan to use the chrono pushers).

Let me know if you have any other problems...Good luck!

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O thks for the answare.

That explain me prety much everything about the pusher problems.

It's in your post that i found the info about the tap 10 sem :)

so can i just mail Blake Scott, ttred29@earthlink.net ? does he sell on ebay or have a site ?

Regarding the case clamp , as i just bought the movement without a watch case, i was laking some proper ones.

I cuted 2 longer one i had, so it fit correctly, but i am still missing proper screw .. i think i'll just buy a large set of various screw, has it seams i am always missing the one i just need..

Now i can get further, i'll do the pusher works tomorow !

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It's in your post that i found the info about the tap 10 sem :)

so can i just mail Blake Scott, ttred29@earthlink.net ? does he sell on ebay or have a site ?

His website is www.scotchwatch.com, and he sells on eBay as wbspls.

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Okey back to works !

Got to my toolshop today, now i am reday to adjust those pusher :)

Thanks again for the info, it was very helpfull.

I mailed Blacke Scott , case clamp screw are on there way, now i just have to be patient.

You know,i have done extensive search on the web about "valjoux and stem" but it aperas that RWG is finnally the best place i know to get information about watch in general, not just reps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

For starters, it shouldn't have a luminous dot at the 12:00 position. The picture makes it difficult to judge the depth and quality of the subdials. But probably a pretty good buy at $100 - $200.

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Are the edges on the gen 6263 as sharp as the edges on dw's 6263 case because I sliced my index finger with my dw's case. :black_eye:

Ouch! I know that can happen...those edges are sharp! On my DW Daytonas, I conditioned the case, to smooth down the edges, and give it a more "vintage" look.

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Avitt,

What did you use to conditioned the case? Do you have a picture of your dw? :) Thanks

I use Swiss files, a buffing wheel, and sanding sponges. The last time I conditioned a case, I took a few pictures of the process. Maybe I can pull them together for you tonight. In the meantime, this is one of my Daytonas:

149632-15023.jpg

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That'd be awesome if you can pull them together.

Is that a DW dial or a genuine dial? It's really hard to differentiate between the two. Do you think it's worth it to get a DW dial atm or should I keep scouting for one on the bay? I believe I remember reading a post from a member indicating that dw will be updating his dial to fix whatever flaws there are. Albeit, I can't seem to spot any from the various pictures of the 6263 I've seen on this board.

Thanks avitt!

I use Swiss files, a buffing wheel, and sanding sponges. The last time I conditioned a case, I took a few pictures of the process. Maybe I can pull them together for you tonight. In the meantime, this is one of my Daytonas:

149678-15018.jpg

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My dial is from Andy Tolley (timeman.net). It's very good, but has a font flaw, which was brought to the board's attention by Nanuq (the ultimate reference concerning vintage Daytona dials...nothing gets past Bob).

DW black non PN dial was very good...the other were just OK. They all had a few minor cosmetic issues, and the dial feet were incorrectly located.

It seems as though David started from ground up on his latest dials. They might be great, but at this point, they are an unknown, and unproven. And I can tell you that David has already notified me that the price is going up (quite a bit) on the new dials, when they are ready.

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