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Hi Friends ! I'm very happy to present my new baby. This project started by chance, I was fortunate to be able to buy a 700 gen crown and a 5512 PCG Phong case. Initially the crown was destined for my cartel 5513 but the day after its purchase I could not resist the opportunity to get a nice PCG case with correct crown eight. This was a quick decision to take as this case has the particularity of having a wider dial opening than the usual size for the 5512. It seems that for the first 5512, Rolex have used 5510 dials that measure 27mm. Then with the appearance of the 26mm dials a slight gap was visible between the dial and the rehaut. The 26mm dial not resting on the dial seat, the assembly was held in the case thanks to the fixings of the movement. With an ETA movement, which is smaller than the 1530 Rolex, this is not possible, the 26mm dial + movement set passes through the dial opening. So I had to be able to make a larger dial that can fit on the seat of the case. On this case, the diameter of the dial seat is 27.8mm. So I simply resized a 29mm dial in 27.6mm. The regulars know the following, removing paint from the dial, sanding with 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000 sandpaper, polishing, gold plating, decal then lume. Specs are : Vintagewatchmaker case set Gen Service T19 Gen 700 crown Athaya 7000 tube Athaya pearl ETA 2824-2 JKHorological Hands Beco 2mm gen spec bars Gen 93150 bracelet Yuran Rally strap Decal dial Thanks for reading ! With her sister

I'm not crazy about these V2 cases as they don't allow to carve a correct 1016 case. It's a DJ case really... However, since there are little mods to do to complete a nice looking watch, it's probably the best option for a sweet Explorer on a budget !!! Dial is from Yuki, aged and re-textured, movement is a 2824. Beautiful engravings by JMB ! Very accurate, I love it ! Pictured after is a 1002 with a genuine case set and dial, powered by a 2824. Note the correct T12 domed crystal by Verlux ! It's fitted with Explorer hands to give it a pre-Explorer look. Not to modify the narrow dial central hole, the movement hour cannon was modified to a Rolex specs diameter, and so install Rolex specs hands.

I spent some time on the Isle of Man with someone from the forum who I discovered is on a first name basis with performers you wouldn't believe in the rock industry. And he never mentions it. That's the mark of true talent. Do the gig and let the word get out on its own.

Titanium Planet Ocean. Got it m2m, but any TD can get it for you.

Oh god, please! Nice 5512. I am fall in love now [emoji18] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Be Very Careful. The seller who goes by: GT3RS and whose email address is: gabgoigrace@gmail.com will definitely rip you off. He's already on multiple occasions to multiple buyers taken Paypal payments and not sent the goods. He's even gone so far as to send one of the buyers a box with a $.10 piece of garbage in place of the watch they purchased. He's got a 75% feedback. You can verify all of this on Rep Geek and on many other selling platforms as well I'm sure. ******** BE CAREFUL !!! ****** BE CAREFUL !!! ******** Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Guys this is true , verified so beware.

Link: and more guys.................

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05 - CROWN : I tried to save the crown and repair it with a tiny bit of copper wire ... I like to pretend being MacGyver. It worked but I wasn't 100% certain everything would stay in place so I prefered to change for a crwon and stem I had in my drawer. I'll work again ion that crown later ... just for the fun of it. And if I succeed I'll create a specific thread. 06 - CRYSTAL : The crystal is good enough (samel quality level as the watch) but it has some scratches on the cyclop. One can see them only on macro pics but it bothered me so I dedided to do my best to fix that thing. A good friend of mine told me I should use Cerium Oxide. So I bought some (that's really cheap) and tried that method. All you need is : - Cerium Oxide - small amount of water - some make-up remover pads - elbow grease (wrist grease in fact) Just mix some oxide with water to make a thick paste, moist you pads (unless they will abosrb all the water from the paste), take some of the paste with a pad and rub the crystal, again and again. I did that for minutes, and hours, while watching the news or a movie on TV, listening some cool music, having a sunbath on my terrace, etc ... It's a very looooooong process but ... it works. The scratches didn't disappeared but it's really better ... IMHO I'm not certain that was worthy or usefull but I'm happy. I could go further but I wont cause If I want to get a perfect result I would have to sand the cyclop 800/1200/2000 then repolish with Cerium Oxide. I would be a very long process and I'm not quite certain that the difference would be visible without a magnifying glass. So here is the last close pic of the crystal before I wrapped it in greaseproof paper ... waiting to put it back on the case. 07 - MOVEMENT : The movement seemed to work good and with the new stem/crown assembly it can be set without problem and the date changes between 11PM and 1AM, so everything is OK. Except the date wheel. The police was ... "exotic" could be the right word. So I decided to make a DIY overlay wich could look some more accurate : - designed the DWO on Illustrator/Photoshop - printed it on a very thin photo paper - cut it and fixed it on the datewheel with some double-sided tape - add a "wedge" made from the same photo paper between the dial and the dial spacer fixed with double-sided tape) That's all. Now the police looks less "strange" and the date still changes well between 11PM and 1AM. And here are some pics of the process 08 - DIAL : OMG ... that dial really bothered me The printings were no that bad and "could look" like some 2006 dials but the indexes ... OMG !!! Looking at the indexes I first thought about swapping the minutes hand for a thicker one and the insert for a green one, so that the watch could look like a 50th anniversary LV. But it wouldnt work, the indexes are not even "big iNdexes" and the printings would not be accurate. Then I searched my drawers and found a 16610 dial that "could have" work ... but I had already modded it for an ongoing 16800 Comex project. So I have created a thread here, a WTB asking for a "cheap but decent" 16610 dial. And now here I am, waiting for an nice 16610 dial from a forum's member. 09 - CASE & BRACELET : This morning I woke up in the wee hours so I had some time to work on that watch before SSB (Shave/Shower/Breakfast :smile:). So I put the crystal and gasket baco in the midcase and the insert back on the bezel. Add the caseback and crown, springbars. So here is just a pic of the complete CASE & BRACELET. At the moment I'm waiting for a nice 16610 dial to come so I let the movement and hands in their respective boxes. First just a pic of how it looked ... stubby crownguards, a bracelet more tarnished than brushed and a loosy crown And NOW ... really nice IMHO, despite the very bad light a 5pm I'll take some better pics and wristshots with the movement and new dial cased in ... on next friday if everything goes well.

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It is a cartel based. Case was totally reshaped...

My jmb v2 + whoopi [emoji4] says hi[emoji1303] Beautiful builds you've got there!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish I have the same case. And this rare brevet crown is the icing on the cake. What a wonderful watch Sir !

My 64 strat I paid 700$ for in 73....

my amazment at the interestiing and amazing folks that are on this forum never ceases

Oh yeah... I'm very well aware that the overwelming majority of guitars bearing "BCRich" on the headstock are piles of plywood and chromed bits of plastic... I just happened to lay hands on probably the ONE BC Rich ever made that is worth playing. The headstock is blank and no markings are on the guitar at all... I bought it used at a Mars Music location before they closed... I picked it up 'cause i'd never played a Bich body guitar before... thought it was a home build from its appearance... red laquer, gibson shaped headstock, no markings or serial numbers.... Took it home and took it apart to clean up a bit and reset the neck and what do you know... Bernie's Sig right in under the neck.... I really need to get some shots of it up... Running through my Yorkville bass head/amp it sounds nice and crunchy... running through a 75w marshall amp its clear and sings beautifully.... I spend a bit of time at the Guitar Center near my house... I've yet to find any new guitar (or amp for that matter) that begins to sound like any of the vintage gear I've picked up... only new stuff I've ever bought are cables, strings and picks.

Your right - If the only played with distortion, i'd have them on my IPOD !!! similiar talent - these guys all went to berkley and julliard

I bought my son his first guitar at age 13, a Joshua. Paid a whopping 180.00 bucks... At 15 I bought him a Tacoma, and he grew in his skill's and love for the instrument... For his 17th birthday I took him to a local music store and set him on a stool... And blind-folded him... At 17 years old price and looks mean everything... But I wanted him to feel and listen... He played 30 pieces... Taylor's, Santa Cruz's, Martin's, Larrivee's, and 1 (very expensive) Olson... The fingers & ear purchased a very nice Taylor 514ce... At 20, he still plays that piece a couple of hours a day... The blind-fold was pretty smart on my part... TT