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omgiv

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Posts posted by omgiv

  1. It seems that I cannot leave well enough alone. I had finished my 111N a while back but there were just a few things that bugged me. The train bridge had a mark on it from the factory that I missed in the QC pictures that made me a little sad. The movement was so beautiful except for that mark. I had not properly plated the wheels in the gear train after brushing. had also forgotten to replate the end of the swan neck from where I reshaped it. So....I decided to start all over :)

    Here is my second attempt at my 111N movement. This one has the following genuine 6497-2 parts:

    Center Wheel

    Third Wheel

    Fourth Wheel

    Escape Wheel

    Set Lever

    Set Lever Spring

    Yoke

    Click

    It has ETA ratchet and crown wheels as well as ETA crown, ratchet, and click screws. I prefer the ETA screws for that over the rep screws because the rep screws have an uneven cut on the bottom of the screw slot. Probably from when the slot was milled. The screws were flat polished. Other mods include:

    Install an upper ETA incabloc on the balance

    Shape and replate the end of the swan neck

    Use a H factory swan neck adjusting screw

    Flatten and polish the canon pinion

    Strip and gold plat the hour wheel

    The finishing touch to it all has to be marlin22's engraving of the mainplate. That little detail really pushes it over the top. I can't thank him enough and highly recommend him if you are looking for someone to perform some mods for you. Thanks again!!!

    Anyway...here are some pictures of the finished movement. I have it cased currently but haven't had a chance to take any cased pictures. Thanks for looking!

    IMG_1296_zps270f722f.jpg

    IMG_1293_zps64238264.jpg

    IMG_1297_zps3ee62a98.jpg

    IMG_1298_zps43a7c90b.jpg

    IMG_1299_zps47a9fb89.jpg

    IMG_1300_zps83fc2d66.jpg

    IMG_1304_zpsa6a7c143.jpg

    IMG_1305_zps342c7c51.jpg

  2. Thanks for the tip PeteM. I might do a wtb ad and see what happens.

    I have actually done some bluing of parts myself. It is really fun to do. I have been able to blue screws with the slot staying polished (without stripping the nickel). Removing the nickel plating from the screw before trying to blue it would give a uniform look. It just has to be repolished after removing the nickel.

    Thanks again!!!!

  3. I can't speak for the Yuki case, but I bought an ingod 1680 caseset a while back to try.  I decided to not use it after all though.  I didn't care for the slope of the lugs.  The crown guards are pretty good but could use to modding, but it will take a gen crystal, movement, and dial.  Here are some pictures I did a while ago of it mocked up.

     

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    DSC_0096.jpg

     

    DSC_0097.jpg

     

     

  4. Hey guys,

     

    Just a little update.  I have the pdf made from the screenshots.  The file turned about to be kind of big (about 670MB in size).  I am a little hesitant to upload it to my dropbox but do have a rapidgator and uploaded account.  I am uploading the file to them as I type.  It will take a couple of hours to upload so it may be tomorrow before I post any links.  If you want, I can send the link to a single individual to try out to make sure that the link and file work, it is complete, and that no sensitive information is being disseminated.  Thanks!!!!

    • Like 2
  5. Hi guys, I have the app already. I tried to use Deckard1979's method but the images are password protected. I can take screenshots but don't know how to make a PDF. If anyone knows how to create one on a Mac, I might can get it done.

    • Like 1
  6. Thank you very much for the insightful comments. I don't really have a build in mind for it right now and like you said, building a watch just because I have a movement doesn't make sense.

    I was truly looking for what is reasonable to ask if I were to sell it and now a sales thread. That being said I will contact with you Mike.

  7. Thank you both for the replies. I can adjust it so that the rates can cancel them out but getting it to COSC is probably above my skillset. It would probably involve hairspring and curb pin tweaking. Both of those are dangerous and one can easily ruin a watch by trying it (don't ask how I know).

  8. Now that my 5513 is done, I have an extra 1520 that I don't plan on using. My next projects are a 1680 and 1665 so I need 1570's and not a 1520.

    I had planned on selling it as a parts movement but didn't get any takers. I decided to try out my new microscope yesterday and go over the parts to see if I could spot anything wrong. At 60x magnification I could see that the the lower balance pivot was ever so slightly bent. I restaffed the balance and put a new roller on it (the old one would not fit the new staff) and it is running now. It isn't keeping COSC standards but has good amplitude and keeping +/- 20 in all positions. I feel like it is a decent movement and should be used by somebody (if not me).

    The question is would you keep it for safe keepings or sell it. If I do sell it, what is a fair price to ask? Thanks!

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