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Yes. The bezel is genuine. Everything is now except the midcase, caseback, and bracelet (clasp and diver's extension is genuine).

Thanks to all for the positive comments!  They are much appreciated!!!!  The genuine bezel snapped perfectly onto my MBW retaining rings.  I had two but one was too large for the crystal (beginner mistake ).  I had bought a "genuine" retaining ring but it would not fit.  After buying a new NOS bezel for my 1680 project and it not fitting, I decided that what I bought as a genuine retaining ring was not.  It may be a genuine Rolex, but just not for a 5513.  I had thought it may be for a 1675 but couldn't get confirmation.  I have seen a number of genuine parts being sold as spares and always wonder if they are in fact genuine.  The only true way to know is if you open it yourself.  Thanks again!!!!  

I had a genuine 93250 bracelet fitted to my TC case for a while.  There is a noticeable gap between the case and the bracelet.   I ended up going with TC's latest bracelet (for the end links) and used the 93250 clasp.  It was the best solution that I found.  Here are a couple of pictures to show the whole 93250 bracelet on the TC case.

Thanks so much for the comments. The hands, as Alligoat said, are genuine luminova.

I knew someone would ask how much the project cost and how it compared to a gen. I must say that I enjoy the search and ability to put this together myself. I know that it isn't 100% genuine but I get a much greater satisfaction looking at it on my wrist than if I bought it over at VRF. That being said, here is the price breakdown.

Midcase: $700

Caseback: $400

Crystal: I had it in my parts drawer

Crystal Retaining Ring: Parts drawer

Bezel and Insert: $500

Dial and Hands: $550

Tube: $25

Crown: $150

Bracelet: Taken from my 1665

Movement: $600 (I was able to trade some spare parts in to bring the cost down)

Total: $3025

I know that the bracelet would have brought the price up substantially but I am reworking my 1665 and took it from that until the time comes. I probably could have gotten a genuine for a little more than what I have in it, but it wouldn't be what I want. I had a 5513 back in 2008 that I paid almost $4500 before I sent it to RSC. The price for the service was almost $1500 and that included a new bracelet, dial, hands, insert, crystal, tube, and crown. I almost have to take the price off of the table when it comes to projects like these. Does that make sense?

That looks beautiful Freddy!!!!  I love your 41.  If you don't mind, I might PM you to ask you some questions about it.

I have so many projects going on right now that I thought I would never finish any of them.  Well, I finally finished my 5513 project today.  This one has been in the works for over a year and has been mostly complete for about 5 months.  I couldn't quite get the movement running like I wanted, so I sent it to a professional.  After about 5 months, the verdict was that it just wasn't going to cut it.  I was able to find another movement for a reasonable price, so I snatched it up.  I serviced it myself and was able to get it running under COSC standards.  I cased it up today and pressure tested it to 10 atm (it passed).  The last thing to do was to take some decent pictures to share with you guys.  So....here she is.  I am really happy with the way it turned out.  The only thing that isn't 100% the way I wanted is the dial.  I couldn't find a luminova T<25 dial.  If I find one sometime, I might swap it out.  I was going for that fresh from service look.  I love the vintage domed crystal but appreciate lume that glows.  Anyway, here are the pictures and the build list.  

Midcase: Phong

Caseback: Genuine

Movement: 26 Jewel Hacking 1520

Crystal: Genuine T19

Crystal Retaning Ring: MBW

Bezel Spring: MBW

Bezel: NOS Genuine

Bezel Insert: Genuine

Dial: Genuine Luminova Service

Hands: Genuine Luminova

Tiube: Casker

Crown: Genuine 703

Bracelet: Genuine 93150 with 580 Endlinks

Thanks to all of those that helped make this project complete and a success (you know who you are)

Very nice job. I am glad you got things straightened out. This is going to be awesome when done!!!!

Thanks gents. It was sold to me as genuine but just wanted to double check. Thanks!!!

Hi Guys,

I was wondering what your thoughts were on the engravings on this caseback. Thanks!!!!

I am no expert either but based in the incorrect 10 spacing on the insert, I would say rep.

No problem. I also think that it looks different from different angles and also in different lights. I don't have a lot of pictures of the genuine movement to compare. I don't know of a rose gold color, but I might be able to make my own

Here some extra shots I took today.  I tried to get the angle and lighting like the genuine shot and also took some under a glass caseback.  I still don't think the color is right but it is closer than the other things I have tried. At this point,  I am running out of ideas (except to have it plated).

Thanks Pete,

You are absolutely right about the bleed over. I was in a hurry and didn't have time to get the bridge 100% clean. Everything I have done so far has been removed with acetone (even original paint). I will clean up the bridge and take some pictures under a caseback to see if that helps. Thanks again!!!

Okay...This is take 5 or 6.  I have been trying different options as far as getting the gold color just right.  This is the most accurate I have come up with.  The best thing to do would be to get the engravings gold plated and then have the bridges rhodium plated while masking off the gold.  That is above my skill level and I don't know anyone that will do it near me.  Anyway, do you think this is closer?  Thanks!!!!

Thanks so much for the info and the picture!!!!  This may be a completely dumb, or obvious, question but how to you keep the shape of the cg if you are pulling it across a flat surface?  Are you using a rocking motion while you are pulling it across the sandpaper?

That is absolutely gorgeous!!!!!

Did you flat polish the cg pin outside of the cg? The cg that I have has a slight curvature where the cg pin hole is located. if i flat polish the cg pin, it doesn't square up to the hole evenly in flattened.

Also, what did you use to refinish the cg? I like the even graining.

Hi Guys,

I am still tinkering with things while waiting for the 127 to come back into stock and I have decided to tackle the lettering color. I bought a few gold leaf paint kits/ pens in different colors but I don't think they are right. Obviously the bridges are for the wrong movement but you get the idea. Here is the best that I have come up with so far. It looks a little too gold and rough compared to the genuine pictures I have seen. I was wondering if anyone had any better options or ideas to try. I also have to find a way to seal it so it won't come off in the cleaner. Here are the pics and thanks for looking.

Thanks again for the info.  I have contacted David to see if I could get a set.

I had some time this morning decided to try a new mod to see if I could make things better.  Here is an extra balance [censored] I had lying around with two mods performed (please excuse stray threads).  I am sure most will be able to spot them.  I think one is worth it but not quite sure about the other.  What do you guys think?  Thanks!!! 

Thanks watchmeister.  I will look into the DSN hands.  Do you remember when you compared them and was it on this board.  I searched but couldn't come up with anything.  Thanks again!!!!

Hi Guys,

I am looking at getting a Noob 127 after CNY and am trying to get my information straight as far as mods needed. One of the things I have a question about are the hands. I searched this and other forums but can't find the information. I am hoping that some of the experts here can enlighten me.

The Noob hands seem to have a flat on the point of the hands, where as the genuine hands are pointy. The aftermarket hands on eBay also have the flat section. I have several genuine pictures saved and it looks like there were two types of hands used. The biggest difference to me is the minute hand. One set has a longer point while the other is stubby. Is that correct?

Also, where is the best place to get more accurate hands? Thanks in advance for enlightening the uneducated

Puretime Noob

Longer Pointed Minute Hand

Shorter Stubby Minute Hand

Hi Guys,

I just received my Noob 243M and it seems the bezel does not line up.  I noticed it in the QC pictures and asked to see it aligned but it will not stay clicked in place when aligned at 12.  I was wondering if anyone has had success fixing this.  I had a 243 a year or so ago and destoyed the bezel trying to get it off.  I don't want to make that mistake again.  I know that CNY is very soon and things have shut down, but I was wondering what you would do.  I already have an email to the TD to see what my options are.  Thanks in advance!!!!

Those are beautiful straps.  Congratulations!!!!!

Thanks Wolf for the clarification on the bezel.  I didn't notice it and will that one alone.  If someone is looking at my watch that close, they had better watch out for a hand across the back of the head

I meant to post these earlier but missed them for some reason.  These are pictures of the modded crown against the stock Noob crown.  The stock crown is on the left in the pictures.  There is a difference in thickness of the crown (where the teeth are) of .03mm but I don't know if this is due to the modification or variance in the crown itself.  I didn't measure it before starting.

Okay....this will be my last post on the crown (I promise).  I was able to get the crown held in the lathe more on center and used the cross slide to cut the bevel.  I think that it came out pretty well.  I was also able to polish the bevel.  The last think I did was thin the ring on outside of the crown.  From what I have seen, the Noob crown has a ring that is too thick.  I erred on the side of caution and didn't want to thin it too much.  The locktite is drying now and I will see if it still will work on the watch later  Thanks again for the help and for humoring my OCD.