Emperor Penguin

Dude, the scratch lies diagonally across the direction of the brushing. Maybe I should push the Scotch Brite pad along the brushing lines?

I made a tiny mistake of putting a scratch on my AP ROO case while removing the bracelet. The screwdriver slipped and made a diagonal scratch along the brushed finish. It's a long scratch line, but noticeable when looking specifically for it. Most people wouldn't notice, but I would because I was the one who messed it up in the first place. Is there any way to buff it out and maintain the brushed finish? Should I get a Dremel or something?

The conclusion, therefore, is to get rid of the bracelet and buy a conversion kit from AP Bands, a real alligator strap from either there or Strapluxe, and possibly an AP clasp from King. It may mean another $400, but it makes the fake even harder to spot. With a good alligator strap and AP clasp, the only way anyone can spot the fake is to look carefully at the date window, which I understand is about 1 mm too far to the right, and not as deep as the genuine. Very difficult to distinguish, unless you are looking for those differences specifically.

This is all speculation. Only the watch collector knows what he was thinking, and I would dare to speculate here that he is reading these forums now, getting his jollies that we are all pulling our hair out. What you should have said was to act in a way in which you are joking, but there is no way if you are serious or not. Here is how I would have responded. "This watch? It's a cheap fake and I bought it in Chinatown for twenty bucks." That'll leave him hanging. Always works for me.

What's the big hype about these Nautilus watches? MBK or not, the datewheel is totally incorrect. The datewheel needs to be a touch larger and set a little more to the right. The font is incorrect, also. Is there a replica watch anywhere with a correct datewheel?

Looking closely at the watch here, the only thing I can see that could be PVD is the small plate with the tiny screws above the crown and below the bezel--actually, it looks more like Kevlar or hard plastic. I forgot to state that what's even more impressive about this watch is that the crown is pull-out and not screw-down. I don't think this comes from either the first or second factory. It's a completely new factory because the dial has a different design. Specifically, the chrono subdials do not have those awful rings around them, and hence the dial has a cleaner look, which I like. Still, $475 is a hella good price to pay for this watch. Silix finally came through with a great watch, and I think this is your best buy.

Silix offers a full ceramig Black Magic for $475, and I was surprised when I received mine. Here are the pictures. There is no AR coating, so I'll have to send it to Chieftang for that. Besides, most Chinese factories offer the awful blue AR, which you don't want anyway. Also, the rotor has no saw-tooth hub, but the "HUBOT GENEVE" sticker, though better than previous stickers, can be sent for engraving. Finally, the crown is pull-out instead of screw-down. Overall, good value for $475. The Emperor is pleased.

Dude, I got a full ceramic Black Magic from Silix for $475. Refer to my posts in the Silix forum and Other Replicas forum in repgeek. I'll post pictures here for you. Didn't come with AR, so I'll have to send it to Chieftang. Besides, most of the Chinese factories offer the awful blue AR, which you don't want anyway.

Silix has mixed reviews. Some like, others hate. A couple instances I've received watches that were defective, but even in those instances one shouldn't be so quick to condemn. Why? Because Jay is very accomodating to exchanges. If you don't like, for whatever reason, just send it back and he'll give you full credit toward another purchase, and he does not charge a 20% restocking fee or whatever. Silix may send some bad watches, but so what? Just send them back for full credit. It's that simple.

Dude, I'd buy the watch if she had a prettier face, bigger breasts and a better ass. If buying that watch means getting that girl behind it, I'd pass. Otherwise, I'd just use it as a daily beater when chopping wood or working on the car.

NOT! This is what I see. (Copy and paste) Great Success ! Apache is working on your cPanel

There are new replicas released that cost a lot of money. Hublot Big Bang replicas sell for over a grand, while the genuine models sell for about $9000. The new Concord C1 replicas sell for over $500, while the genuine watches cost from $10,000 up. Audemars Piguet replicas aren't cheap, either, but their respective genuines sell anywhere from $10,000 to $20,000 and up. The replica-to-genuine price ratio can easily be determined by researching the cost of the genuine. If you don't have this already, bookmark the link below as a good reference. Gemnation Watch Index Here you can find many genuine watches for sale and you can get a good idea of how much the genuine costs. On average, the most expensive brands are A. Lange & Sohne, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet is up there, too, along with Hublot. Common brands like Rolex, Omega, Breitling and Tag Heuer are the cheaper and more popular luxury watches, but more people recognize them because they are more prevalent and affordable. The question is this: what is your replica-to-genuine price ratio limit? At some point the cost of a replica is too high to justify buying it. There's certainly no point to shell out $1000 for even the best Breitling replica that costs $3800 new. If a Hublot Big Bang Black Magic replica costs $1200, yet the genuine sells for $12,000, that is a replica-to-genuine price ratio of 10%, which is questionable. Take into account all necessary modifications (e.g., Chieftang's AR coating, rotor engraving, etc.), and the ratio will get even higher. Aha, but Ruby's Big Bang with ceramic bezel costs $419, and compared to the genuine at $9900, that would be a replica-to-genuine price ratio of 4.2%, which is far more justifiable. A poll is necessary. What rep-to-gen price ratio would you consider your limit to buy a replica? Hopefully, if we can agree on a fair percentage, the dealers can look into this thread so they can more sensibly price a replica. More or less would be based on the quality and accuracy of the replica.

You are correct. If I may add, it would be necessary to change the strap to make it an even better copy. What you will need is a dark brown, padded alligator strap in classic (glossy) finish, and voila! Patek owners will have an even more difficult time to spot the fake because I recall that the real Gondolo is cased in polished white gold. The rep is in polished stainless steel, but because the white gold in the genuine Gondolo has a polished finish, you cannot tell the difference between that and polished stainless steel. For all the fake Patek Philippe watches available, this replica with the alligator strap would perhaps be the most accurate to the genuine.

I presently own a Patek Philippe Nautilus I bought from Puretime and I like it a lot. However, the only flaw I see with it is that the datewheel is a bit small and not far enough to the right. If you look at all the replica Nautiluses among the popular dealers, you will see that they all have that flaw; perhaps they were all made in the same factory. For the genuine Nautilus, the datewheel is slightly larger, and a couple millimeters to the right, nearly flush on the right side. Also, the font is different, and the replica has a little tiny white dot to the right of the date window, whereas the genuine has no white dot, given the date window is more flush to the right edge of the dial. What I can't figure out is why can't the replica watchmakers duplicate something so relatively simple to imitate? Why can't they set the datewheel more flush with the right edge of the dial? More importantly, I'm wondering if there are any Nautilus reps around that feature the correct datewheel (i.e., a little larger, correct font, more flush to the right edge of the dial, and no white dot to the right of the date window). Anyone we know selling such a rep?