Emperor Penguin

The flaws you noted are negligible, and there may be other tiny flaws that you may have already overlooked. For example, did you notice the differences in groove patterns on the dial? The watch conoisseur will not notice these or other flaws unless he seeks specfically for them. Otherwise, those flaws will escape his eye because the correct datewheel will distract him. As we know, every fake watch is flawed in some way, that there is no such thing as "1:1." Concerning the high-end fake watches, the name of the game is now awareness of specific flaws and to seek them. The Emperor has spoken.

I have a rotary tool and all the things necessary to polish most watches. However, how the heck do you polish the Royal Oak Offshore? You know very well that over time you will scratch the watch somewhere, and it is very likely that the bezel will scratch. However, what can we do to remove the scratches on the bezel? There are hexagonal screws on the bezel that have polished tops, and the bezel around those screws have a brushed surface. You can rub the Scotch Brite pad on the bezel to restore the brushed finish, but you are rubbing them over the polished hexagonal screws. You can use the rotary tool and do each hexagonal screw, but even with a felt-tip point there will always be a chance that the point may miss and slip off and land on the brushed finish. This is very, very perplexing. Any ideas?

Looks like you'll have to get a new clasp. Send Joshua an email and he'll set you up for an AP deployant clasp. He will give you a product number, which is a strap, but don't worry; he uses the product number so you can pay a specified price. The price will be $45 including shipping. You will have to enter in the comments section of the payment link that you are paying for an AP clasp. Contact him by email first, tell him your intentions of buying a clasp, and then he'll set you up for one.

That's strange, dude. If you can't unscrew the locking pin, the clasp rod cannot come out. You gotta take a picture of it for us to see. How the heck did they lock in the clasp rod in the first place?

Dude, at least you have a clasp to work with. I'm still waiting for my clasp from King, and for now I only have the watch and strap. You should be able to fit the clasp rod into the AP Bands strap. Joewatch at RepGeek did it with no problem. The first thing to do is to remove the clasp from the rubber strap. To do that, there is a tiny screw you must first unscrew from the clasp. That screw locks in the clasp rod, which has a hourglass pinch in the middle. It's a very, very tiny screw (about 1 mm long). The rod should fit into your AP Bands clasp loop, and you lock it in with the tiny screw. What is the problem? The rod does not fit into the AP Bands loop? Or are you having problems removing the clasp from the rubber strap in the first place? If possible, please post a picture of what the problem is.

There should be no dispute as to the color of the genuine. Budjosh posted in this forum a side-by-side comparison of the genuine Safari and the fake black dial. The dial is clearly a cream-like color, and when you zoom it in the dial looks like it has a pearly gloss to it as well. To avoid any further dispute, it would be better to avoid the Safari altogether and get a black dial instead. There's no dispute with the black dial.

Wow! Josh responded very quickly. It pays to have a Blackberry on hand. OK, this is what I wrote to him in email: Hi, I'm looking at your Safari model APROO. http://www.joshwatch.com/images/9/4/0107/2.jpg In previous models, the dial color was incorrect because it was ivory white. The correct dial color in the genuine Safari is an off-white, cream color. Did the Guangzhou watchmakers correct the dial color? If you have one in hand, and have taken a close look at it, please let me know. Thanks. And here is his response: Hi, It is still the same dial.. The color is accurate and correct. Thanks Joshua If it is "still the same dial" as previous models (i.e., ivory white dial) then the color would be inaccurate. However, on the website it does look like the off-white color. Perhaps he meant that the dial is the same as the genuine.

Dude, you and I are looking at the exact same watch. I am presently modding my AP ROO (secs at 12), which has a black dial, to a black alligator strap, but I'm thinking about dropping $600 on this to have a second watch for sunny days when I wear brown or khaki. We'll have to wait until someone buys one to post pictures of it. To me it looks like the correct cream color, so we'll see. Why not shoot Josh an email and ask him directly? I'll do that right now.

Well I don't know first hand, but the consensus here is that an Oracle conversion kit is designed for an Oracle strap, the rep endlinks fit the rep strap, and AP Bands' conversion kit is true OEM (original equipment manufacturer), and an AP Bands strap, of course, fits the AP Bands conversion kit. After all, AP Bands are designed for genuine Audemars Piguet watches. I don't know about using an Oracle conversion kit with a different strap. I saw one thread where a guy used an Oracle conversion kit and a cheap rep strap from one of the dealers here. You can see a very wide gap between the end of the links and the straps. I can only assume that conversion kits differ up to a millimeter or so at the endlinks, and the corresponding strap will only fit that particular conversion kit. Joewatch at RepGeek did the right thing and bought AP Bands conversion kit and an AP Bands hornback strap, like I did, and there are absolutely no gaps between his endlinks and strap slots. Still, the only way I can feel good about jumping the gun is when somebody buys one of these new watches from Josh/Andrew and give a report on the quality of strap compared to real alligator or crocodile. I would bet money that the quality would not be good because there is no price difference ($568 vs. $568) between the stainless-steel bracelet and the Chinese hornback strap. They must be made of cheap, printed leather.

Dude, I'd never call that a super rep, or even a good rep. The datewheel is way off. Match the datewheel size, position and font and it will be a super rep. I would pay a thousand dollars for such a watch.

I'm [censored]. I bought King's AP ROO for $490, and I decided to change it from a bracelet to a strap. OK, so I next shelled out $70 to King to send me the rubber strap so I can get the AP deployant clasp, then bought from AP Bands a conversion kit for $180 and an alligator strap for $250. This totals to about a thousand bucks for a watch. Yesterday morning, I found that Josh and Andrew have new products in their Audemars Piguet line: Royal Oak Offshores (seconds at 12) with hornback crocodile straps! I spent the past two days kicking myself for not waiting, because instead of modding my way to a great watch, I could have waited and bought the completed target watch from Josh and Andrew for about $600 including shipping. The only consolation I have is that I know my AP Bands straps are among the finest you can buy, and I chose alligator with black stitching, and that would be a gorgeous strap. Furthermore, the strap is made of real alligator hide. I can only speculate that the straps that come with Josh and Andrew's watches are made of printed leather instead of alligator or crocodile because it would be cheaper for the Chinese watchmakers to make real alligator or crocodile. (They charge the same for either bracelet or strap.) Until somebody buys one of these new watches and compares the strap of it to that of the genuine or AP Bands, we can only assume for now that AP Bands would be better strap quality. Heck, I gotta rationalize somehow if I've already wasted this money.

I recall reading in the famous thread "Top Ten Lies..." that "all replica watches are flawed." I would suppose that this would hold true to the so-called "super reps," too?

A simple eBay search shows this bracelet for sale for $2000. That's a lot to pay. I'm in the process of adding a hornback strap to mine, and because I don't care so much about the bracelet I'll sell you mine for $70 if you want. Send me a PM and we'll talk.

AP Bands sells a strap conversion kit for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore for $179 plus shipping, and Oracle Straps sells any of their AP straps (graphite, Kevlar or rubber) for $185 and the price includes a conversion kit. Are the conversion kits virtually idential? If they are, there doesn't seem to be a point of buying the conversion kit from AP Bands when you can buy one from Oracle Straps and it comes with a set of straps. With a conversion kit costing $179, plus a hornback crocodile strap for $349, both from AP Bands, that amounts to $528 plus shipping, and that costs more than the damn watch (King sells it for $490 including shipping). Might as well shell out the extra six dollars and buy the conversion kit from Oracle Straps. This assumes, of course, that the conversion kits are virtually identical.

Dude, then I'm hosed. Well I bought King's rubber strap ($70) and it's on the way here. If the endlinks won't jive, I just might as well order a strap and endlinks from AP Bands. At least with King's rubber strap I have the rep AP clasp. AP Bands do not sell rep AP clasps. Might as well go all out. Get a hornback crocodile strap for $350 as well as the conversion kit, which costs an additional $180. Those cost more than the watch itself, which I bought from King for $490. Pretty damn expensive hobby here.

The endlinks are no problem, whether or not you have the stainless-steel bracelet or rubber strap. The problem is the rod that passes through the endlinks. The endlinks have two sets of holes, one set to connect to the watch case via four rods. The concern is about the second rods that pass through the other end of the endlinks, onto which you attach the strap. Does the strap fit on the external rod perfectly, and does the strap fit on the external link such that there are no gaps between the endlinks and the strap slots?

New project, guys. I just bought the rubber strap and clasp from King for $70. I'm thinking about removing the clasp and then cutting up the rubber strap to see if I can force out a conversion kit. Anyone here know if the rubber strap end links and rod is basically the same conversion kit?

I'm already determined to get rid of the metal bracelet, because it is already starting to break. (One of the pins securing the clasp cap already fell off, so it hangs diagonally when unfastened; perhaps it would be better to try and sell the bracelet here or on another forum.) In retrospect, I should have ordered the AP ROO with the rubber strap so I could get the clasp as well. If the first link is hollow, a hack saw or a bolt cutter should do the trick, but the key is to cut it without breaking the rod. King sells the rubber strap and clasp for $70, and I believe the strap comes with the end links.

I'm looking at the stainless steel bracelet in my Royal Oak Offshore and, looking at the endlinks, I think it may be possible to make a free strap conversion kit, though it would require destroying the bracelet. If you take a close look at how the stainless steel bracelet is made, I think it may be possible to make a strap conversion kit out of it. If you look at the first link at the endlinks, you can see how a rod passes through them, cut at the ends, sanded off at the edges, buffed and brush-finished. I bet that there is some epoxy holding that rod in there, and a micro torch will certainly loosen it. Once heated from both ends, perhaps a pusher tool can force the rod out. The endlinks will be free, and with the rod you now have a free strap conversion kit. Does anyone here have a throw-away bracelet to experiment?

No matter how often I look at the Patek Philippe Aquanaut, genuine or otherwise, I think it is a butt-ugly watch. I cannot stand the minutes markers on the circumference of the dial. It is such an eyesore. However, I do admit that the datewheel, though not exactly right, is far more accurate than the fake Nautilus watches sold through the cartel. The datewheel on the fake Nautilus is too far to the left of where it should be, and that alone is a dead giveaway. Otherwise, once one gets over the datewheel, a far superior watch over the Aquanaut. Besides, most people have never seen a real Patek Philippe before, so they won't know what to look for to spot the fake. I bought a fake Nautilus from Puretime, and I replaced the cheap strap with a hand-made alligator strap. The strap alone made a huge difference. I got rid of the fake clasp because that did not work well, and put on an aftermarket clasp instead. The result is a watch that may be a bit franken, but I've received many compliments for the watch, and more than my share of glances at it. I would give anything to move that datewheel 1.5 mm to the right, but I still love this watch. I would pick this over the Aquanaut any day.

Aha, but here is a monkey in the wrench, Emperor style: "Hey, nice watch? Is it real?" "No, it's a fake and I bought it in Chinatown for twenty bucks." "Twenty bucks? Give me the watch, lemme see." "No way, dude! You'll scratch it and I paid a lot of money for it." The guy then perceived the $20 answer as a joke, and because he won't be allowed to handle it he would have reason to believe it is indeed real. The conversation continues. "Come on, how much did you really pay for it?" "I'll say that I spent a lot of money for it. Let's leave it at that, OK?" Of course, we can argue that $600 was indeed a lot of money for a watch, so we would be telling the truth there. Of course, $600 is nowhere near "a lot" as $20,000. However, $600 alone is a lot, but we can argue that it is nothing to a billionaire. "Did you spend $20,000 for it?" "Keep guessing, dude, but I'll say that it's somewhere near it." $600 is far closer to $20,000 than a million, so we can argue that it is indeed "somewhere near it." Use some of the Emperor's tactics and it'll drive guys crazy.

Dude, the watch smith is indeed the best alternative, but part of the fun is to do it by yourself and save lots of money in the process without screwing up the watch more. I did a little research on the net and I learned about jewelers cloths. Let me copy and paste. BRUSHED SS 1. To remove fine scratches, use a jewelers cloth. Be GENTLE or you will put a shine on the finish, which will not quite match the brushed look. If that happens, you can put the brushed finish back on by following Step 3 below. 2. For scratches over a small area, use a fiber-glass brush (e.g. the German-made Eurotool sold by watch-tool suppliers). It looks like a mechanical pencil with a bundle of glass fibers instead of lead that can be dispensed from the tip. You brush this glass-fiber tip on the SS surface to remove the scratches and to create a new brush finish. I would not recommend using this tool over a large area because the brush strokes tend to be uneven, especially around curves, though you can get better with practice. WARNING: The broken fiber glass on your skin can cause unpleasant itches. Wear a thin latex glove and use a brush to remove fiber-glass debris from your watch after repair. 3. For scratches over a large area, use a Styrofoam block made for polishing finger nails (sold in beauty supply store). Each block is about an inch thick and 3 inches long. Its surface is impregnated with a very fine abrasive material. Brush gently with the grain to remove the scratches and to blend the new brush strokes with the original ones. I prefer this Styrofoam block to sand paper or steel wool as it is easy to grip and to maneuver. The soft Styrofoam also conforms to curved surfaces and is very forgiving. With patience, you can even remove deep dents and reshape small parts safely with this Styrofoam polisher. I just bought my jeweler's cloth from eBay for about eight bucks and it's on the way here. I think I'll try it first on a bracelet link and see if I can do it on my own. Of course, if I do it and screw the watch up, I can still take it to the watch smith. I'll be very careful here.

I have a slightly dissenting opinion here. Before I begin, I must first ask: were you wearing a genuine or fake Datejust? Either way, you were wearing the watch with expectations that you would be recognized for your level of social status because of it. The Zales lady, contrary to her claim of watch-selling tenure, only proved that she made an egregious error in identifying your watch. I can only speculate in her favor that she did not see your watch closely enough to read "Rolex" on the dial to identify the watch. I have seen a lot of Seiko watches that are imitations of various watches, including Rolex. (My mother, for instance, owns a Seiko that looks like a Datejust from five feet away, fluted bezel and all.) I saw a Seiko watch that was an imitation of a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and had to take a closer look. As the addage goes, "imitation is the most sincere form of flattery," and companies like Seiko and Citizen try to cash in on knockoffs. I think a change of attitude may be necessary here. You stomped out of the Zales store without an erection because the Zales lady stroked you the wrong way for her lack of recognition. Admit it, dude, you are wearing status symbols for recognition, and the lady's reference to your watch as a Seiko was a slap in the face to you. For me that would be a funny episode to share with my buddies on the message boards, but to take that personally would be a rather snooty attitude akin to the dreaded snobs who are quick to condemn your watch as a fake. You should be glad that she didn't work part-time at an authorized Rolex dealer and totally embarrass you by calling out both your watches within earshot of other customers in the store. In short, if you are wearing a fake watch you should never have the right to turn up your nose, and even if you were wearing a genuine luxury watch you should, by social grace, never turn up your nose under any circumstances. Zales are jewelry stores for the masses (dipshits). They sell low-quality jewelry that is affordable to all, given that most people in America are not as rich as you think. Never go to a Zales store if you seek flawless diamonds, because they will never carry them--go to Tiffany & Co. for those. I once went into a Zales store to look for an 18 mm single-deployant clasp and the store manager asked me what kind of watch it is for, and when I answered Patek Philippe he referred me to the nearby authorized dealer, which is fortunately two miles away, because he strongly recommended a Patek Philippe clasp for a Patek Philippe watch. The lady working at the counter was next to him and asked, "what is Patek Philippe?" and he answered, "it is a very, very expensive watch." I got a little kick out of that, knowing that the lady has never heard of Patek Philippe before, but never did I project a snobby attitude and imply that the people working at that Zales store were worthless. I looked at a few wedding bands, picked up a few business cards, and wished everyone at the store a good day. Did I give a long, blank stare at the clueless bimbo and shake my head? No way. Such a haughty attitude would show how shallow you are, and earnestly demanding social recognition with fake watches makes the situation even more ridiculous. The Emperor has spoken.

Scotch Brite pad, huh? Well before I go to the hardware store to find some, I'm wondering if there are different grades of Scotch Brite suitable for brushed stainless steel. Before I try this, I think I will practice first on some leftover bracelet links.

The fake looks great! I'm sure I'll be getting lots of poontang meeting chicks at the clubs with it. There are reports that the steel bracelet has an incorrect finish, so the best thing to do is get a gator strap and conversion kit and buckle from TTK. That way, the only way someone can spot the fake is to look specifically for the datewheel, which on the fake is about 1 mm too far to the right, and you must look specifically for that. Hell, I think the datewheel looks better in that position anyway.