rolex001

This is a copy off a Mark I DRSD dial where J&W probably forgot to paint the writing red, or at least pink (most of them faded) - just don't buy it, it's not exactly a good dial. A GWSD dial will never have Submariner 2000 written on the dial.

Looks gen, but with no better pics it's more guessing than fact. Markers look good, maybe have been relumed as the 12 is a bit wobbly. Just to give you an idea - Singer was one out of seven known dial makers. On most fake dials, the printers stamp or engrave Singer in the back - so Singers are the most common fakes. There are also Beyeler fakes - if yo ucan get a pic from the dial back side it will be easy to identify as gen or fake. Some makers only used number codes indeed during some periods. Just because there is no Singer stamp doesn't mean it is fake. Hold the watch under a very strong (like 500W) lamp or optimally under a Sodium-gas lamp. While there keep your eyes shut and after a few secs go see a completely dark room - what do you see? Probably the hands make this not work as they will glow extremely bright due to their SL coating. @ Tribal - take a look at ND Trading site - http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/index.php?mai...products_id=158 - there are 16800 and even 16660 rdials, but they are as most of their dials, poor attempts.

That's a good thought, on the one hand for teh mentione reason and on hte other one to save the astronomic PP fees that must be applied on a 200k sale...

The caseback is a genuine PP - but how in the world can somebody try to sell a watch for 200 Grand with two shabby pics and a wrong Submarienr booklet in place? Oh well, maybe he has nothing better to do then try... but he could do far better!

Wow, looks like this is overpaid at least five times - talk about profit margin...

What exactly is the movement o nthe back - can't be seen form the pic if it just is a photography or if it indeed is a rebuild dummy. GREAT work!

Thanks for all the precious info, work and pics. Looks like a complete mess to me. You did a great job rebuilding this. I'd steer away from Phong after seeing that - yuk... the attention to detail is just great, they didn't even bother to remove the original incabloc shock system on the dial side - and most probably not even exchange the balance jewel. My understanding is that each balance has to have corresponding pierced jewels and matching cap jewels - did you examine this issue too? Wouldn't amaze me if the dial side jewel is totally wrong. The free sprung overcoil spring actually touching the balance [censored] tops it off for me. For such a price tag I can get a genuine modern Rolex, with a geniously engineered movement... screaming quality from every little part. And it's not that those Daytonas are exactly perfect Frankenwatches... anybody who knows the least little bit about Daytonas will identify these as fakes - Phong should at least get the Chrono bridge right - that's just pathetic...

Very interested especially at that price!

Some also retrofit genuine vintage Tritium pearls to get the look back to original.

Not correct I am sorry. The only silent movements are most Rolex movements. The reason is the rotor assembly being jewelled. There is a simple rotor axle held by two jewel bearings and one C-clip. Doesn't make a noise except the clicks from time to time. ETA movements are ball bearing equipped which results in a noise - the noise might be more quiet if oiled properly, but they should always make a sound. The 7750 is the worst, with unidiretional autowinder it can spin up heftily generating a very loud sound. The both-direction winders on 28XX movements create more or less sounds from winding - it's all normal. Even a new Omega Planet Ocean which has an altered and better winding system makes a noise like crazy....

Thanks guys... my observation was that 580's do indeed fit, and as I said sometimes (thin case 1665) even the 501b's - but I really think this has to do with the poor quality of the Rolex endlinks, they are never consistently shaped... Best to go with a set of brand new ones, they will fit 100%.

9315 with PP divers extension on Mark 00, 0. Endlinks integrated 285/385 later 9315 with Pateted divers extension on the Mark I sometimes - same EL's. 9315 with Patented extension and same EL's (mostly 385) on Mark II but also already with 993150 93150 with Patented extension and 585 endlinks found mostly on Mark II-III 93150 without Patented stamp and 585 endlinks found in all Mark IV Sometimes, 580's were used, 501b's don't fit genuine 1665's - sometimes they fit the flat case used on early models but it's questionable. If you don't want to shell out Thousands - you should get a 93150 and a set of 585 or 580. Talkinga bout modern versions - bracelet with the lined Fliplock clasp already will be cheapest... depending on condition. SEL and Rolex sports model = fake. Except Yachtmaster and post 2007 models.

Yes you would have to trim the dial - the MBW case is a copy from the 5513 case havign a slightly smaller diameter dial. Sadly, this will ruin your 450$ dial permanently. You will have one big flaw - the minute markers will be shorter because they will be covered by the rehaut more than usual. If you know somebody who can do it - let him trim the case rehaut and dial lip with a lathe slightly, so your 1680 dial will bea straight fit. You should think about something like that when moddig with 500$ parts - it will pay off.

This has to be the best photo for today's situation! Great!

Sadly, 100% agree on this one.