Slartibartfast

OK, so thanks for all the comments.

Second draft now shown below.

Items tinkered with, include.....

12 o'clock marker centered above crown

Minute markers added below "SWISS-<25"

Flat topped A's added to text below depth rating

Serifs added to text (though at this resolution, not easy to see)

Depth rating text thickened up a bit

OK so how's it looking? Any other pointers? Shout out loud guys!

I love the dial / lume / hands on this model, and have seen them around for some time.

It's the bezel that doesn't quite do it for me though.

They always seem to sell for less than you would expect IMO.

hi slarti,

is your layout composed with scans or vectorized fonts ?

No fonts were harmed in the making of this dial.

It's all vectors. And every bit drawn from scratch.

Hey, thanks for all the input guys, it is much appreciated. Many minds are better than one with these things.

I'll take it on board your comments and post an image of Mk II, soon as.

Looks pretty good, but you'll want to add the little 1/4 height tick marks at :29 :30 :31, right under the SWISS - T < 25

Thanks ubi. I had not noticed that difference between the metres first and feet first models.

edit....

One remark i think that the coronet and the 12 o'clock marker don't line up correct.

The coronet should be shifted a little to the right at least that's what i think.

Cripes! You're right. I hadn't spotted that. It needs fixing for sure.

Well after a fairly good response to my latest dial decal topic whic you can catch up on here, I have decided to see what further possibilities there are with this technique, and have taken By-Tor up on his suggestion below.

Great work!

Hey, you really should try making a 1680 red Sub dial. I've never seen a good rep/aftermarket dial. It would be really interesting to see the results.

http://images.antiquorum.com/212/full/358.jpg

http://images.antiquorum.com/213/full/357.jpg

So, here is the first draft of my 1680 dial graphic, on which I would invite comments from those who know.

There is no font smoothing applied yet, or the correct colour match. That will come later, but first the font, spacing, font size etc etc must be fine tuned. If anyone has any further reference material they can point me to, that would be appreciated.

After the graphic is finished, it is then simply a case of printing out a sheet of decals, and away we go.

So common, don't be shy! Let's have some constructive feedback.

Great work!

Hey, you really should try making a 1680 red Sub dial. I've never seen a good rep/aftermarket dial. It would be really interesting to see the results.

http://images.antiquorum.com/212/full/358.jpg

http://images.antiquorum.com/213/full/357.jpg

I might have a go at re-creating the Single Red Sub dial.

Takes a while though, so I'll check back in with an update in a coup;le of weeks or so.

Watch this space.

I have access to one at work. If you want to send me a file I can try and print one for you. Just let me know what sort of transfer paper I need to purchase.

Does anyone have the required dimensions for the dial?

Is the original required, or a rep equivolent?

As I don't have access to the original I have no benchmark dimensions to work from.

Maybe the "standard" rep 28.5mm sub dial is the target, but who knows?

Has anyone got any info?

Great work!

Hey, you really should try making a 1680 red Sub dial. I've never seen a good rep/aftermarket dial. It would be really interesting to see the results.

http://images.antiquorum.com/212/full/358.jpg

http://images.antiquorum.com/213/full/357.jpg

Hey BT!

I have thought about this, but have no way of printing the results. I can create the dial graphics no doubt, but have no access to a colour laserjet that could print the results at the 1200dpi required.

My 6200 sprung a leak a month or so back when a lucky blow must've broke the seal of the glued in crystal, but after regluing the crystal, the watch was fine, and the dial wasn't adversely affected by the moisture

TeeJay, this is very interesting. I must say that I am surprised that these dials are in any way robust.

I am glad that event didn't ruin it for you, and that you are still enjoying wearing them.

Amazing results!

I love the vintage lume tint against the black blank; superb.

Thank you! It does look good, doesn't it

Did you use a roulette date-wheel?

I wish I could find one. But for this ETA movement, the best I could do was the plain red.

Even this had to be sourced from 'overseas'.

Wow, looks fantastic!

How is the ink holding up over time, have you noticed any fading/peeling/etc with the first ones you made?

Hi

No problems with the originals I made. I have the Explorer Precision on my wrist at this time. The dial is a fresh as the day I printed it. No issues with the lume either.

HOWEVER....I would not like to get any moisture into one of these babies!

Great source of info. Thanks for sharing.

The speedy is one of my alltime favourit watches.

One day I will own an original.

Beautiful, and great job luming that dial! What case did you use for this project?

I bought a couple of Tudor cases from Ebay a while back.

They are actually Tudor Prince Date 'Jumbo' cases which are 38mm diameter.

Although bigger than the original Ranger, they sit very well on the wrist being the larger size.

Just stick a folded link bracelet on it and you're there!

Having owned an original, I have to say that your franken is on the money!

Congrats.

Superb work freddy!

Do you know that even if you track it 500 times a day, it wont arrive any quicker

and you cant exert any control over it till it does

.

Wise words indeed.

Still I can't help checking at least 501 times a day when I have incoming.

And it never does arrive any quicker.

@pascal - it'll arrive. Just chill.

Shouldn't need to remove any parts to take the stock datewheel off. There are notches in the cover plate on the oposite side to the winding stem. Manualy rotate the date wheel by "half a day" to align the inner teeth on the datewheel with the notches in the cover plate, tilt and remove.

See, that's what I like about this place!

Superb choice. This model can only appreciate in value. A good investment piece IMO.

Here's mine. A 2006 Seamaster from Joshua.

Just sold it to another forum member last week... might be regreting that now.

Runs a 2824-2 from the days when no-one had heard of a clone movement.

Awesome watch!

Yep, me too.

I had this problem once on a 2836.

The yoke (and correct me if my terms are wrong) pushes on the ratchet wheel because it in turn pushes on a flat sprung part of the works.

I found that the yoke had overlapped the spring slightly so that there was no pressure on the yoke, therefore the ratchet wheel would not engage the winder. Simply resetting the yoke onto the flat spring cured it.

Apologies again for not knowing the correct terms for these parts. I hope you get the gist.