One4adventure

It doesn't smell right to me.ebay

PS You need a good tapping fluid as well, stainless is really sticky stuff.

I just had a quick glance at the linked site, as a toolmaker by trade my advise would be spend $20 and buy a proper machine tap, not the cheaper hand tap. These hand taps are real easy to break. You want a HSS machine tap, and a proper tap wrench (starrett make a nice small one but for one use it might be overkill) just avoid a ratcheting handle, tapping something this small requires the work piece in a vice and two steady hands!!! If this is your first tapping this small I would suggest you get a piece of scrap stainless steel to practice with. Good luck!!

TPI is threads per inch and no TPI (Imperial) Tap would be suitable given that the tube would take a metric thread measured in mm of pitch between each thread. The tap should be available from any machine shop supply house. BTW to figure the correct tap drill for a metric thread just subtract the pitch from the diameter. Hope this helps! Chris

The real issue is like most "brands" Invicta is just a name, there is no way you might say from across the room "Say, is that the new Invicta?" Real brands are recognized by their individual features, no mistaking a Bell+Ross or a Pan!! Problem will Rolex is everyone assumes its a rep even if its gen unless you scream money. Pity really.

I spoke too soon, there is a link to www.oysterworld.de which has a great compare of the 14060 to the 5513, it would seem the 14060 was the first!! Thanks, Chris

Hi RoninQ, Thanks for the link, actually I have been there before. Unfortunately it does not answer which model first had the unidirectional bezel!! Does the 1680 have this feature? Thanks, Chris

Hi All, Sorry for the noob question but I can't find a clear list of the various differences of say a 5512 to a 1680. Can someone point me to a list of the various differences over the years? I am particularly interested in which model first had the unidirectional bezel. Cheers, Chris

Thank for the great tips!! the seller tells me he has movement holders for $40 each, is this a good price? I found a site advertising the ETA for $150 new.

120314336553 I just picked one up myself! Now I need the help of you guys to put this together into a Christmas present for my wife! Do you guys thing I could sneak an ETA movement into this case? I am thinking TT bracelet and Gold Bezel and crown. perhaps a pink mother of pearl dial? This is exciting, I saw a woman wearing the midsize datejust the other day, a very classy looking watch! For $60 the price seamed right? Thanks Chris

Actually I had heard from a watch seller near Hereford that they are wearing the Traser Black Storm Pro, I picked one up but sold it on after a few weeks on the wrist, you could read by the lume which was amazing but on the whole the watch seamed cheap and small, and the bezel is a composite. Of course the quartz movement is a Ronda or similar deadly accurate but no sweep......hope the new owner likes it but I am back to my CWC automatic RN diver. Of course this is why I now have Rolex envy........

Re the Sandoz sub, there is at least two versions sporting the same name. The one depicted above is a Hong Kong and the preferred one is the Singapore version for reasons I cannot remember......the Singapore has a raised logo on the dial.

This might be of interest? #130248058622 The idea of this Tudor has me thinking......

Well likely my project does not reflect the tastes of the average member here....but it is important for me to get the right look and most of the sub inspired watches just don't cut it, part of the draw is the perfect balance that rolex struck in the design of this model. Also I love the fact that the euromariner shares parts with the real deal!

So its a can of worms I see! Well to narrow it down I was thinking get the Euromariner with the asian movement and then do some mods like; Swiss movement 369 explorer type dial (Yao) MOD hands from Yao lose the cyclops polish the rehaut clean add fixed bars pie in the sky I might even PVD the thing. I will do the CG mod if it strikes me So you see an exact replica is not required but the idea the case share components with the real deal makes me think I can shore up the weak points that affect the case being water tight to at least 50m. I currently sport a CWC RN auto and can tell you that the fixed bar watch is the only one that will stay on my wrist for all my activities like swimming off road driving and recovery........i have lost plenty of spring bars on lesser watches as I alway use a nato strap.

Hi all, My search for a great sub watch has led me to this great forum! I want to build up my own as this is part of the fun and will keep you guys posted with pics if there is an interest, basic needs are a watch I can Snorkel with that has great looks and decent lume, I am gathering from this forum the best case might be the one used in the Euromariner as it shares many components with the real deal. I am pretty happy with the performance of the ETA movement so that willl be in the spec as well. Is my best bet to buy an empty case or the base model Euromriner and go from there? What are my options? Would love to hear about similar type projects. Thanks, One4adventure

Hi all, I am a dive watch fan particlarly the Sub,SM,SD ect. I own a CWC RN diver auto and would like to build a nice sub that i can get rough and tumble with and not feel guilty! My search led me here in a round about way as I was looking for a Singapore Sandoze as a base and I was offered a replica 5512. Hopefully I can get some advise on the best sub case with 120 click bezel and domed sapphire....that would be great!! (of course i will post that query in the Rolex forum in due time) Cheers