smc

left.

right is wrong

It's all a hoax about the watch on your wrist.

If you rode your bicycle to the bar you will be going home alone regardless of your watch.

Most women look at the larger picture:

Good thing I drive a 335IS

ADDICT

You're kidding right?

I've heard many different opinions but I wanted to ask those who have one...

How is the lume on the blacksteel super avenger? I know it won't be a seiko monster, but I have heard that it is better than the previous generation of reps that are pretty much unreadable after 15 minutes. What do you think? I'm hoping it's not as bad as the v2 skyland blacksteel.

thanks!

bump

lol

Yeah, right...

Just can't seem to fall in love with the new one, so i'll have to keep mine...

Laphroaig Quarter Cask

With a fine cigar.

Your best bet it to get proper binder from either tritec or noctilumina. Good quality nail polish may or may not work for you.

After 12 years it's half as bright. Not sure if you can charge it up with light though.

Well, the pic doesn't make it easy but I'm going to say gen left, rep right. Go figure.

The glass is where it's at! Before you buy, check out shots on flickr tagged with the lens you are looking at. Just don't buy a camera with a high pixel density like the 15mp canons.

Thanks Ztech.

To sum up my post, I was looking for an opinion on which movement to use and what software to use.

smc.

Hey all.

I'm going to shell out the cash and sweat and produce a small batch of my own watches. This is going to be a fun project, and I don't expect to make money - but I might as well try to recoup my costs. I have a plan for the dial and hands that will take a significant portion of the production costs so I need to save some money

1st question...

I need to source a movement that people will like. Apparently the japanese movenets are not a favorite, so how about an SW 200/300 or maybe a seagull ST21? This would be a watch sold on ebay etc for ~$500. This will be a robust diver, and I want it to be automatic. If you have an idea for a movement with a power reserve, that would be great as well. I'm looking for as cheap as I can get, and still have a watch people will buy.

2nd question...

I'm using a macbook pro - what would you suggest as software to design the specs to give to the case manufacturer? I may have the cases done locally but having someone in china do it may make it possible to keep my total production cost to under $500.

smc

Nice! That rail shot really shows raw talent. Maybe a bit off the top but the composition is stellar IMO.

It's one thing to buy a nice rep. I don't buy boxes but hey what the heck. Papers is going too far IMO.

Macro photography rocks.

Now you get to see how dirty your watches really are.

As per instruction, only get chain wax lube from whatever brand you prefer. The whole point is not to lube, but to get a load of thick long lasting wax inside the links to cushion them. This is not thin furniture polish, this is meant to be used on chains so it's much thicker.

I started using wax lube on my R6 in 2000. WAY cleaner and quiet.

Dude.

Post of the decade!

btw, I think you upgraded

Unless you have a split focus ring mirror or whatever it's called ( used to have one in the old days lol) you might find it tricky to truly get what you want in focus. The 105 is useful when not set up on a tripod with a static subject - flowers/bugs/boogers etc and the VR/AF make a world of difference.

105 afs vr if you can afford it I get by with my 70-200 2.8 and an extension tube.

Hiya, I can't seem to send you a PM. Am I on your blocked list?

Thanks,

SMC