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Posts posted by marrickvilleboy
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My view is it probably won't fit.
I can try over the weekend.
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24 minutes ago, droptopman said:
Pretty sure. Why you see something. I had several folks I trust evaluate it and it came from a very reliable vintage dealer.
Looks good to me
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F07.111 from what I recall is the newer style movement that is bigger than the F06.111 (equivalent for the popular 955.112 movement).
I have date discs for the F06 but not F07.111 - probably hard to come by since its a fairly new movement and people don't really have spares of those.
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gooood stufffffff
Starting to believe trying reps to buy the real thing is a true and real transition.
I'm looking at acquiring a 5513 too.
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don't spam this board with duplicate questions.
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100% fake
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try Yukiwatch.com
Need to search harder my friend
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looks great - care to share the parts list?
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2 hours ago, dbane883 said:
i personally only prefer the 1680 with the ridiculously tall top hat 127. Why? Because its bad - ass!
Plus you need the cyclops!
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wm9 bracelets has its flaws.
1) end links stamping doesnt match clasp
2) "swiss made" on clasp has no spacing
otherwise minimal difference
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6 hours ago, lacogil said:
Thanks I won't be keeping the 5513. Will be up for sale once I get enough posts. I didn't want to invest in a new dial after building up the 5517 so I'm just gonna let it go. My fault for not paying attention to the details!
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
its not about the post count here - you can only sell if you are a VIP
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5 modern subs? really!? lols
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my gen 16610 no holes also has the T.
There is a thought school that thinks T stands for "transition" but I doubt it.
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read earlier comments and you will see
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interesting to see how your dial has the submariner on the top....
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dial feet are different to the 2824 / 2836 variant so you will need to clip off the dial feet.
Slow beat as well so better for vintage builds.
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yuki 9411 caseback only works for his case not MBW
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the one shown in OP is correct - the other way around I dont think actually existed
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lol definitely canal
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I think about right for the Submariner but i think the GMT seems high I agree with Highoey
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two options that have worked for me.
1) duct tape rolled up around your four fingers - stick to back and turn.
2) super glue a bolt to the back of the case, wait for it to settle and then secure watch and use wrench - remove bolt using acetone later.
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I love animals as much as anyone and yes I feel for anyone who has these problems.
That said as MOAB has pointed out this is not the place to raise funds and the Admin team is against the practice of approaching our members with such a request.
It makes very little difference that the OP is not actively asking for funds as it has been put out there that he needs 4000 euro so now, through the good will of some members, funds will be raised.
If you do wish to help this member it is entirely your own choice but it must be remembered there is no way to actually verify the situation.
The problem for the admin team is do we appear heartless and lock this thread or do we risk this snowballing until everyone is asking for help of some kind.
Ken
Well said, Ken.
As sad as this is, it's probably not the right arena for this thread - though if there are members who are willing to help, then it says alot about a replica watch forum, doesn't it?
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I have to agree, even though I have gone overboard on a couple of builds myself!!
I also bought a 16750 a few years back, and my price was similar to what you paid. Around 2600-2700 USD, also with a pretty nice bracelet. Pretty hard to compare prices 5+ years ago to today though. Everything is more expensive now.
I believe that one question everyone needs to ask themselves before embarking on an expensive build, what happens when I "fall out of love" with it? The next "Grail watch" comes along, and it needs to go? Can you afford to take a beating on one of these if no one wants it at your price? The market for 2K plus watches is not the same as the 200-400 USD watches. Not many impulse buyers at 2K! Also the buyer pool is much smaller in the rarified air. Just thoughts to ponder before you jump.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I have to agree, even though I have gone overboard on a couple of builds myself!!
I also bought a 16750 a few years back, and my price was similar to what you paid. Around 2600-2700 USD, also with a pretty nice bracelet. Pretty hard to compare prices 5+ years ago to today though. Everything is more expensive now.
I believe that one question everyone needs to ask themselves before embarking on an expensive build, what happens when I "fall out of love" with it? The next "Grail watch" comes along, and it needs to go? Can you afford to take a beating on one of these if no one wants it at your price? The market for 2K plus watches is not the same as the 200-400 USD watches. Not many impulse buyers at 2K! Also the buyer pool is much smaller in the rarified air. Just thoughts to ponder before you jump.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Well done on that price! that is a steal whenever you look.
I think the key is patience. Although have struggled to find good deals these days I must admit. My last one was a 9411 Tudor which was April last year. From then to now, nothing. Everything has been market priced.
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those cases look so close to gen its scary.
I have always been against buying expensive reps - regardless how "gen" it is - its not a genuine piece.
Put it in perspective, I picked up a genuine 16750 a few years back for $2.8K and it also came with a bracelet....something to think about
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Need help regarding MBW lugs hole ...
in General Discussion
Posted
the datejust ones definitely work