JuniorNA

Sometime it's hard to tell also, because you'll see me selling and buying xbox 360 games, buying batteries and cases for my Android phone, then all of the sudden...BOOM, i'm selling a Gen dial, or a Gen panerai strep, or a Gen pilot bracelet (all legit by the way) and it throws people off because i don't usually sell that stuff, but when i do get my hands on it, i will sell them on ebay. So in that aspect it's hard to gauge. If you see the seller selling 5 panerai straps that "didnt fit" then there is an issue, but if you see me selling one strap, then a Gen bracelet in another month or 2, then it's legit. It's just really hard to tell because people's buying habits are strange, and you dont know who they are buying or selling for on their account also. Thats why ebay is very hard to figure out.

Thanks to Cougaree, i was able to fix the bezel displacement issue and it now sits flush at 12oClock. Thanks Cougaree! You're the best and I appreciate the time you took out of your day to explain the issue in detail and walk me through each step. Now my obsessive compulsive disorder is at an all time low! The bezel is no longer loose, I will admit it's a little harder to turn the bezel than it was before, but at least the bezel is tight on the watch and it's no longer a half-click off. It's perfect (well, as perfect as a rep can be) and perfect to me. Everyone's opinion is different. Here are some pics.

Man do i love that dial. I'm very happy with mine also. Again, i'm a little [censored] that the bezel does not match 12o clock exactly but nothing is perfect when dealing with a rep.

Update. Locktite worked fine and bezel is now tighter using tooth floss method. Lume markers are not bad and the dial really pops with black leather band. This is my fav watch by far ...

yes i jiggled the screw, took it out, back in, and tried again. it just keeps spinning. Either it's just not catching on the thread, or when it popped off it was only there for show and cannot be screwed back. I put a little bit of lock tight on the screw and screwed it in that way, and so far its staying. I just can't unscrew it ever again

I was able to get the bezel off like you and decided to stop there since it was late. So I put everything back but the 30 marker won't screw back in. Either the thread is damaged or screw is short bc no matter method I use it won't stay seated. Keeps falling.out. all others r fine. Maybe its crazy glue time.!!) lol

I tried to loosen the bezel with the bezel screws, no luck. The screws just kept on spinning. I don't think you can remove them with the screws on a rep. It has to be taken off another way, and then reseated. Perhaps it pops right off?

hey man, is that bezel off point on 00 or 12oClock or did you just have it notched one over? I have the same exact piece and mine does not sit well at 00/12. It's so small to notice it, but i notice it on mine and it drives me mad. If i go 1 click, its too far, i really need a half click and it would lay perfectly on 12. So to avoid me going insane, i just spin the bezel to whatever and that eliminates my worrying about it.

yep and mine has 4 dashes between 10 and 15 and the rest are 3 dashes. so it's exactly like that one. I found 1 issue, and it might just be my OCD, but i feel the bezel is a little loose and the bezel does not sit at 12 perfectly. One click and it's to much over 12, really a half click would do it, and even though its barely noticable, i notice it and I can tell it's not perfect at 12, but if i wanted perfection i should have paid 4500$ for it, lol

actually, it looks legit. Just like a Gen.

I checked out all parts of this piece compared to a Gen, and bezel is a little off, but it's even passable to people that know a lot of about B-ling, but prob won't pass at an AD, actually it def. won't pass at an AD Here is what i found on the sub dial marker (the 12 o clock sub)for Minutes It has a 30 - 10 - 20 . I have to compare it to a gen model but here is what this specific piece has. 30 on top, then 3 dashes, then a larger 4th dash representing 5 minutes then 3 dashes then a 10 then 4 dashes then a Larger dash representing 15 then 3 dashes then a 20 then 3 dashes then a larger dash representing 25 then 3 dashes then a 30 So it goes like this. 30 - - - --- (Longer represents 5) - - - 10 - - - - --- (Longer dash represents 15) - - - 20 - - - --- (Longer represents 25) - - - 30 There is an extra dash between the 10 and 15 minute mark. and since there is only 3 dashes between 5 and 10, i'm assuming that the 10 counts for 9 and 10. then after 10 is 4 dashes then a longer dask representing 15. So if you want to time 10 minutes...you wont know because there are only 7 dashes between 30 and 10. Make sense?

I see. That's very helpful. So in your experience, you think this one is a V4 ? How do the stick markers, and subdial markers look to you? I also noticed the date font in the dw is better than my skyland avenger. They are not squooshed together (fontwise) and it does not look recessed in anyway. I especially like the BCW, because the less lume dots, the less errors. My SOSF (blue dial) had the large lume dots and it was so obvious that it was a rep because each and every lume dot had drippage out of the lume dot ring. The lume dots were uneven,and some of them even dripped onto the dial. It was a very early version of the SOSF rep, didnt even have AR coating, and it was dirt cheap...but i've learned a lot from getting that watch. How do you rate this rep when looking at the subdials, bezel markers, length of minute/hour hand, and datefont/datewheel?

Here are some more shots. 8.2 MP Droid Incredible Camera using AutoFocus and Auto Brightness.

As i was typing that, I realized that the screws are probably/most likely just for show. And i remember my friend trying to remove the bezel by trying to unscrew the bezel screws and most of them didnt even unscrew or come out. I'll have to search the tooth floss method. I'm not too too worried about it, but i do use the bezel a lot when I go to lunch or break and I dont want to end up breaking the bezel or over-using it because it was not on tight to begin with. Can you explain your V4 theory vs. the V3 ? Are the bezel markers really bad in your opinion? Does anything stand out that would lead you to believe it's a bad rep? I think the datefont is decent, better than my skyland avenger, and better than my brothers older version of Andrews BCE that he purchased a few years ago. Thanks for all the help and constructive criticism. I'm open to all reviews and thoughts !

more pics on my hairy arm

Hey guys, I normally don't go for BCE's...I'm a SA guy, and I love SOSF's...but with this rhodium dial, i could not pass it up. It looks very classy and I really enjoy the contrast with Rhodium and Black leather...I couldnt pass this up. It is a V3 and i really have no complaints. I havent really had time to inspect it. I just opened it up, took a few pics and posted on here...but i'm going to do a full inspection and report back. The only thing i noticed is the bezel is a "little" loose, and i mean to the 100th degree. I only notice it when i turn the bezel all the way around from 12 o clock to 12 o clock...but it could just be one of the bezel screws on the side. The Lume sticks are great, and the seconds marker does sit flush at 12 o clock which is a common issue sometimes. I see no issue on the leather band, except it does say 24-20 on the longer one, which is an obvious rep misprint, but no one will see that unless i take the watch off. Overall i love it, and I don't have a classy watch like this, I have very dark dials on all my watches and I like the color rhodium. The pictures i provide show the dial being a little dark, but in person it's much lighter. When i have more time, i'll do a better review of my findings and the pro's and con's of this build.

I agreeabout the ethics but I mean specifically what is the difference between rep vs. Gen. Is it stamping quality ? Steel quality ? The final finish ?

yes, i agree with what everyone said above. but still, what's the noticiable differences between gen and rep? what is stopping someone that is knowledgeable on these forums to buy 10 rep deployment clasps at 10$ a clasp, and selling them on ebay for 250-300$.

Bike Mike - Do you have more pics of your GEN? It's gorgeous and I'm very happy i went with Rhodium. I'm sick of white and blue and black and graphite faces. The rhodium colors with a leather band is going to make the watch pop amazingly. I can't wait to get it. You said it was on the main page of the Chronomat series in 2009, I can't find it. I did see one with Rhodium dial, and white subs...it was unmistakeably white subs...without a doubt. I'll post a picture here...but do you have a link to the rhodium dial and rhodium subs online so I can look and get more info on when it was released, special edition or not, etc. I want to be knowledgeable about this piece, just in case someone is a d!ck and says "breitling never made a rhodium on rhodium dial" ....I'm sure no one will ever ask me that question, or even care, but as stated before, i always assume people care about the watch and will ask for more details, but all my work associates will say is "nice watch" and won't even know what a breitling is LOL. I wore my panerai to work a few times, a few guys thought it was a fossil watch, or thought it was a no name brand.. (it looks so plain, was mostly what people were saying)...too bad they didn't even know that IF it were a gen, i would have dropped 3-5k on luminor Marina Here is the only rhodium i've found.

Lol @ Max. YES, i have my deployment now and don't have to spend 500$ bucks on eBay for one. lol. I would never spend that amount of money when an AD sells them for 250-270. Anyway, I have a V2 Skyland Avenger, and while i do like the 44mm case, and the 18mm height...sometimes it's just "heavy" and I'm excited to have a classy time peace that is not as high (BCE's are 16.5 in height i believe). and I think i'll enjoy the 43.7mm dial size for the BCE. Some sites say 43.7, and others say 42.5 but it all depends on how and where they are measuring from. For example, Andrew states 42.5 - but when you search on Amazon for any BE (43.7) is the size i've always found them to put in their stats section. Either way, I'll be happy with it because it can really be worn in any situation, and the rhodium dial with rhodium subs is definitely a different piece that not many people have seen I'll post pics when i get it and i'll compare to BikeMike's Gen -

Thanks guys. I'm fine with a misprint, as long as it fits and as long as a 24mm band is not trying to squeeze into 22mm pegs.

Thanks for the working link ChronoLuvvvv ebay But before you look at that link, You should know the pricing for the folding clasp on b-source with up to date prices put the clasp alone at 250-300, so why this ebay seller is going for 445 is beyond me!!!!!! It's really a lot of coin to get a simple deployment clasp. If i had a Gen, and i already spend a large chunk of change on a Gen model, say 3 or 4 grand, even 5 grand. I would be fine with spending 25 bucks on a REP deployment. They work just as well, and again, we have no one to prove anything to. And even if we did, there would be proof of the GEN watch, no one could care about the rep deployment. As you can see i'm more wrapped up in what others thing, but I still can't see myself spending 500 bucks on a GEN when it's just stainless steel, and the same one with close etching, engraving, stamping (whichever it is) will do the job just fine. It shouldn't break any easier than a Gen, and it shouldnt lose it's shine any easier...both are 316L stainless. B-ling just knows how to do a good job of upping the price on everything they touch a Gen tang buckle is around 50-70 from an AD i think. You can get the same one one on ebay for 10 bucks. And that one is not stamped, it has the raised insignia. So i guess my point is who cares when it comes to claps, and tangs, but still...I think there a lot of fakes out there on ebay. What's stopping us from buying them for 10 bucks, and selling at 400 ? The ebay seller had a 98.2 % rating, so maybe it is real, or people just believe it's real. Maybe those ebay sellers ARE one of us if you think about it, they would know a good REP from a bad REP, and would know what could pass off as a great clasp, or bad clasp. Just makes you think. i have a friend that works at an AD, and sometimes even the stuff they get is a REP. The customer goes for a trade in, and THEY dont even know they are trading in a rep, or a rep leather band, or a rep bracelet. It's crazy how much is out there to confuse the general consumer public

Hey guys, So i was bored and looking around on ebay to see how much B-ling tangs are going for, Dep. buckles, and "so called" OEM leather bands. I noticed that most of the deployment buckles are around 450-500$ on ebay, which is about average if compared to your local GEN dealer. What i want to know really is, how the hell can you possibly tell if what you purchase (even at a store) is a gen since the reps are getting closer and closer to looking perfect nowadays. B-ling is using 316L SS right ? Well so is the REP. B-ling is using a clean engraving tool right? Well, the reps don't look stamped or oddly etched anymore, they look engraved. how the hell are we supposed to tell the difference now, LOL. I can't even trust my GEN dealer because i brought in a SOSF with bad lume dots one time, and he swore up and down he could tell it was a GEN, and his words exactly "the lume dots are not always perfect, sometimes the watch passes through quality assurance (QA). I was about to tell him i purchased it from one of our reputable dealers, but i did not want to damage his ego since he gives me good deals on small accessories. (buckles/straps/links...etc) Anyway, look at this deployment buckle here. ebay Linky Does anyone have a close up of a rep dep. clasp so I can see how the stamping is? compared to a GEN? I'd really love to know if these ebay sellers are paying 20 bucks and selling them for 500$. It's entirely possible, and i wouldn't doubt it at all.