JuniorNA

When you wear the watch, its very useful The start and stop button is useful in situations when you need to know the next time you have to masturbate because once you wear the watch, you are no longer going to meet any women, and might actually never date again. So i would say that the start/stop pusher is the most important option in one's life once they purchase that watch. It's set automatically to 4 hours to decrease depression rates. I would finish this post, but my watch alarm is going off, 4 hours goes by QUICK!

PM me. I have a few of these bracelets (brushed steel) from when I bought 2 SOSF's from Andrew and put them on rubber and leather. I have 1 blue dial, 1 white dial. I think i can dig up the bracelets for you and send you either the whole thing, or clasp only. Let me know if you found a place, otherwise i'm happy to help. BTW, i saw the link you posted, those lume dots get a 10 out of 10 for me. My lume dots look NOTHING like that , but also the blue face shows more mistakes, and the white face is more forgiving...but even on my white face, when you look closely, i can see the lume dot drip out of the center rings .

Yeah, thats what i figured also, doesnt seem to be fitting tight or weird in the picture, i just think the print is wrong . Thanks guys!

Wow, that looks amazing! It's rhodium right? just like the one I'm getting ? Rhodium dial and Rhodium sub dial. I've yet to find it in an actual catalog (rhodium with rhodium subs), or also known as just "gray dial with gray subdials" In all the catalogs i've seen, 2008, 2009, 2010 - i've only seen Rhodium dial, with white sub dials. So I think this is a fantasy piece, but i'm fine with it because A. not everyone knows every single combination of BCE out there, plus all the special editions B. i don't care what anyone thinks as long as I like it, that's all that matters

Look on the right side of the picture, you'll see in the leather it says 24-20 on the right side of the picture when we all know that the Chronomat evo's use 22mm - NOT 24. So that's just a misprint on the REP i imagine.

Not sure if this needs to be in b-ling area in general discussion. It's not really model specific but just a generic question. I ordered a watch from Andrew who has never let me down and has great V3 versions of the common Chronomat Evo. He has great font updates, and really great quality checks. In the email he sent me with the pictures of the watch before he sends it (he emails me all the pics to approve before he ships which is great in my opinion). The top leather band with white stitching had 22-20 (which is normal), but the longer side of the band, with deployment says 24-20?? isnt that wrong? Shouldn't the watch be the same MM on both sides? It's a rhodium dial Chronomat eVo so i dont think they are 24mm on 1 side and 22mm on the other . Can you guys look at this pic and tell me if i'm right or wrong? it doesnt matter to me what the marking says, i just want to make sure he's not squeezing a 24mm band into a 22mm case ribs. Does it look like the deployment side is being squeezed into a 24? could it just be a typo? What do you guys think? I'm sure he will fix it if it's truly a problem, but i'm hoping it's just a misprint and it's really a 22mm but just says 24. Also, is there such a thing as the evo having 22mm on 1 side and 24mm on the other when using leather w/ deployment? Thanks for any insight or help guys. I appreciate it. And overall, is this a good rep from what you see? These are the actual pictures of the piece. I know B-ling piece that has rhodium, but i don't know if a rhodium dial with gray or rhodium sub dials exist. Unless it's a special edition? maybe the experts can chime in on that

Not sure if this needs to be in b-ling area in general discussion. It's not really model specific but just a generic question. I ordered a watch from Andrew who has never let me down and has great V3 versions of the common Chronomat Evo. He has great font updates, and really great quality checks. In the email he sent me with the pictures of the watch before he sends it (he emails me all the pics to approve before he ships which is great in my opinion). The top leather band with white stitching had 22-20 (which is normal), but the longer side of the band, with deployment says 24-20?? isnt that wrong? Shouldnt the watch be the same MM on both sides? It's a rhodium dial Chronomat eVo so i dont think they are 24mm on 1 side and 22mm on the other . Can you guys look at this pic and tell me if i'm right or wrong? it doesnt matter to me what the marking says, i just want to make sure he's not squeezing a 24mm band into a 22mm case ribs. Does it look like the deployment side is being squeezed into a 24? could it just be a typo? What do you guys think? I'm sure he will fix it if it's truly a problem, but i'm hoping it's just a misprint and it's really a 22mm but just says 24. Also, is there such a thing as the evo having 22mm on 1 side and 24mm on the other when using leather w/ deployment? Thanks for any insight or help guys. I appreciate it.

Hey all, I've read tons of posts with conflicting data, I've decided to hopefully create a new post instead of reviving old ones so we can all add our information on 1 thread . I've read about 20 posts stating 7750's are only to be winded CW on a winder to maintain power, and another 20 posts stating that 7750's can only wind CCW in order to maintain function.... Well now i'm confused, how can we have so many conflicting opinions, surely someone has tested this before, surely someone had the patience in the past to set the winder 1 way for a few days and report results, and set the winder another way and wait a few days for results. Me for example, I have a dual winder which can go both CW, and CCW. I put my skyland v2 7750 in the winder on Friday night, and it was dead by Sunday morning, so Clearly the 7750 does not wind in CCW...my A21J Steelfish was fine since i DO in fact know that charges CCW... So i've decided to split the setting, so its set to both CW, and CCW, but that might not be enough. I have it set to 1 hour on, 3 hours off......on switch, which means... 1 hour on in CCW 3 hours off 1 Hour on in CW 3 hours off 1 Hour in CCW 3 hours off 1 Hour on in CW This might do it for both, IF the power reserve was decent when putting the watch in the winder in the first place.... The only thing that throws me, is that it is usually easily to tell the way a watch winds by literally putting it to your ear and turning it CW or CCW, when you hear the winding, or hear the gear, that means its winding in taht direction, so for my SOSF, it was easy to tell... but on the Skyland V2 7750, I cannot tell, and cannot hear it...when you spin the watch CW I hear the winding mechanism spinning like crazy, which usually means that is NOT the way to wind, the way with resistance winds, so I figured, ok...now if I turn it CCW, i should hear a winding noise...well I didnt hear that either. So not only are the previous posts presenting conflicting data, so is my OWN experience....all the data I presented should have clearly led me to believe the 7750 winds CCW, but yet it died in 25 hours....where as the steelfish can go on forever in that winder... All evidence points me to beleive that the 7750 winds CCW, with the fact that when I turn it CW, the pendulum just spins and spins leading me to believe it does wind that way, but apparently it does wind in CW since it went dead so fast in the winder going CCW. Can anyone explain this? or am I just simple over thinking it ? Also, will the setting i listed above accommodate both CW and CCW winding watches? Any insight?

I think its all about the people you are with, the people you surround yourself with, on purpose, or inadvertently, whether it be at work, or with friends, at a bar, or at home. If you're at work, and you've never seen anyone wear anything nicer than a tag , then I would imagine they would never be able to spot the fake, even if it was only 90% accurate. If you are on wall street and into stocks, and you're dealing with millionaires, sure...a closer look at your watch can cause some water to get boiled if your watch is being handed around the room and compared with a gen. I also agree with you in terms of buying gens, it certainly wouldnt be a hobby because i wouldnt want to spend tens of thousands on gens, because of exactly what you said, i'd be afraid to wear them all the time, and most importantly, id change my mind about the watch in about 3 weeks, and of course i can sell it, or trade it in, but the value would not remain the same, just as any other commodity that is purchased anywhere in the world... The watch has to be great for you, and only for you, not you directly but "you in general"...a lot of people have explainations of where they got their watch, online, trade shows, friends house, and have excuses for why the crystal is AR (i cracked it, and didnt want to pay for sapphire, so i got mineral) and a lot of people focus on things that WILL NEVER be brought up in conversation. I'd venture to say that ableast 95% of the people you encounter in daily life dont even look at your watch, they are too busy on the phone, texting, or looking at their own gen and enjoying it, or looking at their rep, hoping someone will point it out and say its lovely

thanks

disregard please duplicate topic, sorry . please delete

Yeah i was off on that. I didnt have the watch in hand and I thought I saw an H, and as soon as I saw it wasnt a 0035, i just made up a number. but clearly over exaggerated and it was F2052

Does anyone have a link, or guide to explain the different casebacks on PAM's ? I'm trying to find out if the PAM111 should have PANERAIPANERAI etched all over, or if only some models of the PAM111 do, and some PAM111 do not. I'm trying to find some sort of indicator that should tell me which model should have that engraving or not. I know the letters mean the year, but how do I know which one should have the etched caseback, or not etched? Anyone want to share a link or explain?

I did a HUGE edit on this post. Ok. so let me clear that up.... I ordered a PAM 112H from TT. Figured I like the luminor base without the seconds hand. I then got thsi watch, which says radiomir. So the back looks ok but it looks like its for an F series, not an H series. It says F2052/4000 - but if that is for a P111, then I received a P111F caseback on a watch that was supposed to be a P112H. So not only is the caseback wrong if you are saying that F2052 is standard, then The dial is obviously wrong as well. so instead of getting a p112H, i got caseback for p111F (which is wrong anyway because it doenst have the paneraipanerai, and dial of radiomir, LOL

I really do like the fact that the caseback is unique and not like the other p111's and p112's that are floating around. It's just a dead give away if someone were to notice and say something, which in term would have to be admitted it's a rep. bottom line. But i do like it. however something in my head is yelling at me to get the most accurate rep avail, then do the mods later....but then again, if i had the watch I wanted, i would have still been bummed out over the H0035/2000 caseback serial I cant win. lol

Sure, here is the caseback.

What sucks is that the display back is nice, and the numbers on it are not like a regular pam. It does not say H0035/1000 or something like that. It actually has an item number like H0197/2000 - so I'm going to miss that once the standard P112 comes in the mail and I get my generic H0035/1000 engraving on the caseback I should prob keep it and say it was a speciality piece, but no one would believe me. But then again, no one in my life has ever seen a panarai, nor have I ever seen anyone in my life wear a PAN anyway....I should prob just keep it and save on the shipping costs. etc. but I could see how someone would not want a fantasy model, and want it returned for something that atleast looks like the GEN, but I am going to miss the unique unit make number on the back.

yep...figured. I hope i dont have to pay for shipping back to china. $25 is BS. Does the Dealer pay for return cost, or do we the consumer?

I ordered a P112H - Pan because A. i like the base model without the seconds hand at 9:00, and this was had supposedly a stronger crown guard, and lever was thicker and stronger (not as wobbly) However when I received it, it did not say Luminor under the 12, and Panerai at the 6. It says Radiomir at the 12, and Panerai at the 6. Does this watch exist? or is this a fantasy piece? or was this just simply a mistake? Please take a look at the pics and let me know. The dealer I purchased it from said he will make it right and give me a correct one, but I'm wondering if this ever existed bc I kinda like the fact that its a little different than the rest, but wouldnt want it if it's a fantasy piece.

fakemaster, i did a search on your threads...no luck. do u have a link? i want to be clear that these are asian a21j - not swiss.....sorry for the confusion. thanks

I just realized that some of my older reps are running Asia ETA 2813 21J and 21J movements (not sure if these are the same), and I have a few spare winders. I'd like to see if these movements can be "charge maintained" on these winders. Does anyone know if movements can wind CW, or CCW, or both? tia

Yeah, Then i agree 100%, if the quality of the R0LLies have not gotten better since 07, then purchasing the rep is just step 1 as a handful of adjustments and mods have to be made. That is why I stick with the Skylands, SOSF, SeaWolfs, Pan, and even Chopard...the quality seems to be getting better all the time because of the demand in the rep market. I dont have a lot of history in terms of REPS compared to you guys, but I find a decent quality time piece when purchasing the swiss movements (if they ARE even swiss, lol), and 1:1 reps from highly reviewed trusted dealers. Luckily for me, I'm not a R0LLex type, so the concern of me spending A LOT of money on the GEN is very minimal...but the concern for me purchasing 1 or 2 gen b-lings or PAN's is high, lol. So one way or another, we all go GEN eventually, just depends on the taste of the individual. I like PAM 111, and PAM112 because they are simple pieces, easily rep'd, and so far from what i've seen, all seem to be about 95 to 98% accurate, with the exception of the Asian unitas vs. swiss unitas. I'm fine with modifying the lever, or cleaning the dial, or dealing with dust under the crystal, these are all things that wont be 100%, but its also fun to fix and learn, but that interest level will wear away, and eventually you just want a time piece that is 100%, and eventually will be willing to pay top dollar for it. This is truly a "to each his own" type of collection/hobby and everyone is VERY VERY different in terms of opinions, which is what makes topics like this even better. Also, i've seen a DJ with a glacier dial in person, "jesus christ" were the first 2 words out of my mouth

Robbie, you have GREAT pictures, and examples...lol. Few things. A. that would be completely unacceptable to me, even if I paid $50.00 U.S. That is low grade craftsmanship and another example of a watch that should not have left, and another reason why drop shipping scares me. B. Many will tell you this exact phrase and I'm sure you already know this "a rep is a rep, what do you expect"...well to answer that question...I expect a watch that is still made properly. Whether it replicates 90%, or 95% or 98%, I expect the easier details to be accurate. I'm still paying a certain amount for a watch, regardless if it is a rep or not, and that off center font brought the watch price (in my eyes) to less than $4. Sure you can fix it, but do you really want to after seeing that? IF that is wrong, what else could be wrong? Could that be a quartz inside for example? I'm not just talking about your watch, but i'm talking about how a piece of detail that should be easy to accomplish is off, it makes me wonder what else is off. Could watches truly not be asian 7750's? Maybe they are marking them as such, and hoping that we never open the casebacks, and if we do...what do they care? Should we file a complaint with the better business bereau ? I think not Im just playing the devil's advocate on my ( point, but you see what i mean. It almost makes you doubt the rest of the watch. My question to you robbie, are these watches all from the 06/07 years? Are all of these issues fixed, or are we still seeing this type of wreckless detail on pieces from 08/09 ? I'd love to see an example of a $300 R0LLie from one of our AD's here and see if these types of issues still exist. Can anyone post some R0llies purchased in the end of 08 possibly so we can see if there has been a dramatic change in quality since the watches from these examples? I never thought when I created this thread that it would be so VAST in terms of opinion, discussions, points of view, and side topics. This thread is great because of ALL of us, and because of our knowledge and participation. Great job guys. Here is an example of a newer R0L taken from an AD's page, I cut out the source tag to keep opinions as straight as can be. But this one clearly looks like its been overhauled and upgraded in terms of "external accuracy", but by looking at the numbers....do we see any inaccuracies there ? Have a look and see for yourself.

Robbie, all i can say is wow. I'm totally speechless. I know now what you mean about wanting to get the gen and wanting the best there is after seeing this. I'm not knocking the rep, u know that...and after all the research you did, and came back with this, its 100% understandable why you feel the way you did. I have seen bad reps before, SOSF, Avengers, Tags, but this is just shoddy craftsmanship and terrible motivation to make this a decent timepiece. i know exactly what you mean when you say its not the accuracy of the rep vs. gen, but the build of the rep. If that were not a rep R0llie...lets just say that was a $10 piece made in United States, it would still be overpriced at $10.00. Now i'm probably exaggerating as you have all seen worse i'm sure, especially a few years ago when the low low end stuff was coming out like hookers near a cocaine water fountain...but the fact remains the same. This watch should not have left the manufacturer, should not have been allowed to be marked as complete, and should not have been sold. Its completely unacceptable, and actually I think i've learned a lesson...YES it is important to me to have the REP be like the GEN, but its now just as important to notice the small details to see how these reps actually compare when shelling out $300 for a watch. Is it fair to pay 300$ for a weak rep just because it says rolex? no, i think not. Luckily I havent received anything like this, and let me also rehash that the picture might be really exposing this watch for what it is, and maybe its not that bad under normal lighting, when 5 inches away, but MACRO mode on a camera does speak more than words will ever say. Thanks robbie. hopefully this batch of rolexes has died and faded away

Nowadays anything you buy that is not "authentic" supports the secondary hidden markets which in turn could fund a nuclear winter 20 years down the road. Don't worry, gasoline and ARMs dealing will the be the death of us all before buying REPS cause an issue.