CaptainJack

Is it just me or does the bezel and insert seem off? I don't know, just looks to modern. Jack

$9100 with an hour to go. Jack

I bought a bottle of HP 12yr a few years back after it won a double gold at the SF Spirit competition, very nice. But one of the jewels in my Scotch collection (17 different brands at last count) is the JW Gold. I have the Johnny Walker Blue, but at $160 a bottle, it's rare I share it. I tried the Gold and at half the price of the Blue, it is wonderful for a blended scotch, just a smidgen off the taste of the Blue. Jack

$4500 with two and a half days to go! Wow, this will be fun to watch to see where it goes. Jack

Alligoat sent me this parts list, which helped/didn't help. Without the complete numbers, I'll kind of stuck. I need the complete numbers for items 313- and 319- . This would be used on the 16610, but I was told the 16800 had the same numbers. Anybody out there that can help? Jack

Hey JoJo, check your in box for a PM from yesterday. Jack

Can you imagine how much he's going to sink into that to refurbish it! I can't believe he'll leave it in that condition. And to think I posted six pictures recently to sell a model train kit... Jack

Well, that was the purpose of the thread; is a gen cheaper than the sum of it's parts? I was given a ball park price of $500 to $700 for a complete bezel assembly, so that pretty much answers the question about the top end, crown and movement. Has anybody seen a selling price on a case, dial(and hands) and the complete band? Jack

I'm hoping someone has a link to a parts diagram for the 16610 sub. I've tried searching here and on the web, but no luck. Any help? Thanks, Jack

Woe guys, I didn't say I was going to do it. I guess some of you mistook my "thinking about that" to mean I was actually contemplating buying a gen to get some parts. No, it was just a curiosity. I don't have 4k to play with on a gamble; hell, if I did, I'd just buy a second gen. Strike that, even if I did, I wouldn't buy a second gen Sub. I don't mind spending a few hundred here and there over time to assemble a quality rep, but after buying my 16613, I'm done buying very expensive watches. Jack

Hello all, In my search for a submariner bezel assembly, someone sent me a PM and joked that I could always buy a used late model gen and take the parts off it and sell the rest... I got to thinking about that and was curious if any of you can remember going prices for the following parts: Movement Band Case Dial Crown Crystal Bezel Assembly If any of you have seen selling prices for any of the above parts, please chime in. I know an insert is about $100, crystal about $250, crown about $50. Any others? Jack

I looked in the dealer section, curious who sells the noob. Any help? Jack

Hey guys, I guess the "M" lineup isn't such a big deal as has been pointed out by several of you, but the dial on my WM9 still has issues that require it's replacement. In the thread WM9 V1 or V3, the last picture is a shot of the dial to show the missing ink on the "O" and "C" of "OFFICIALLY". I can see the bottom left corners are missing ink with low power reading glasses on. I'm already up a creek on the bezel, BK just PM'd me that he doesn't have any of the V3 bezel's, so now I have to search for either a gen or a WM9 to get that part of the watch up to snuff. I've already got a gen crystal, insert and crown for this watch; looks like I'm heading in the franken watch direction with a bezel and dial from somebody. Silly me for buying a used "V3". Jack

I might as well ask the question here also, does anybody know of a moder/repair guy that will tackle case refinishing? I'd just as soon have it done by someone with experience than try it myself. This watch has suffered enough! Thanks for any help, Jack

Ok, now this is interesting. Below is a shot of my gen Z 16613, and the "m's" are lined up. No kidding, they are sometimes offset? Jack

No, really? The angle is shallow to show just how much the insert sits below the edge of the upper bezel. I don't think $75 subs are this bad. Can't believe a member in good standing sold this as a V3. Jack

LOL

Hey Chief, Nikon Coolpix 110 is the camera. General use with closeup capability, if you get lucky with the shot. I might shot three or more shots to get the right one. Then I use the "fix" feature in the windows viewer off my desktop to crop or lighten/darken the shot. The crop feature is nice to zoom in and get rid of stuff. The "m" alignment is the small m after the 300m and the m in the Chronometer word below it. They are supposed to be right over each other, not offset. Jack

I started a new thread about the bezel assy under the V1 or V3 title. Jack

Hello All, Another post in the ongoing saga of Jack's WM9 V3. As soon as this watch arrived, I knew something was off, even before I put on my glasses. My question to you guys is, V1 or V3 bezel? I think I know the answer. I love the scratches at the 40 marker from what can only be from bezel removal. And don't you love the "40"? The missing pearl insert happened while I was on the phone with the previous owner about buying the watch. He was rotating the bezel for me and it popped out! I told him I was still interested because I have a gen insert and would be replacing it anyway. Big mistake. What really PO'd me was this was sold as a V3, not a franken watch, which it should have been. I've included a picture lifted from a pictorial done by fleed on the V3 (third picture down) and I added a shot of my gen 16613(fifth picture down) for comparison's. Oh, and don't you love the revel between the insert and the bezel? The last picture of the dial raises a question about the WM9 dials of the V2 and V3. You can see a problem with the printing on the "c" and the "o" in the word "OFFICIALLY". It doesn't stop there; looking at the dial with a jeweler's loupe reveals that every letter in the lower half of the dial has a small hole in the printing, at the bottom of the letter. Yeah, I know, I shouldn't have done that to myself, looking too closely at a rep. But I saw the "C" with just reading glasses and had to look closer. Anybody else have problems with the dial printing on their WM9 dials? Thanks for any input, Jack

Hello all, In a thread I started about the WM9 complete bezel assy, chief posted two pictures of a WM9 V2 next to a MBW LV. I noticed how well the MBW had the line up of the "M's" on the dial face. How do the MBW and the WM9 dials compare otherwise? Are the MBW's available and are they a drop in to the WM9 V3's? I've read reviews of the WM9 dial's being very good, but the line-up of the M's is off. Thanks for any input or thoughts. Jack

Thank you Zigmeister for your link and you input. Great pictorial on the movements. It is at least a comfort to know that part of the watch is ok, well kind of ok. The pull out functions still aren't right. I can set the date and the time if I apply the right english, but I can't wind the movement. I'm going to ask BK to do some work on this, whats the right word, POS; but in the mean time, who can you guys recommend to do movement repair and servicing? I screwed myself buying this used WM9 V3, but I might as well spend the money necessary to get it back up to a level where I'll actually wear it. Jack

Wow, just went through the TZ UK link, some of these guys really take the watch movements seriously! Jack

Well, at least the movement hasn't been swapped out on this V3. Thanks for your input guys. It still doesn't have a crown that works right. You can't wind the movement, barley set the date and setting the time requires holding the crown outward; but at least it's an ETA from BK and I'm sure he'll get her working right when he has time. Jack

Here's some shots from last night. Jack