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preacher62

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Posts posted by preacher62

  1. One more thing about my 1655.  I found a model on eBay that I used, primarily, because it gave deference to the cartel case. I did extensive work on the case bring the "waist" on either side of the CGs in to just meet the bezel edge.  I also took some off of the other side.  The 1655 was not always a 40mm watch.  This bezel is 36.9mm or 37mm.  My watch is 38mm, which is the original size of the 1655...I think.  Also, the 24-hour hand was not crown adjustable, so mine isn't either. 

     

     

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  2. "This is for the oldtimers on this board."
    I guess I qualify, 5-16-07.   :wheelchair:
     
    "Just wondering if anyone recognized this bezel."
     
    I have a Phong '1655' case from around 2010/2011 and it has a bezel with 'thin line' numbers but in the same font style as in your pics.
    I looked on a few rlx websites and bezels similar to mine were from around the late 1970s/early 1980s...probably.  Yours looks more like an early 1970s style.
    Genuine or not I do not know but it is very good.
     
    Otoh I have a cartel '1655' from maybe 4 or 5 years ago that is 90% as good as the Phong case except for the case engraving and bezel numbers.  The cartel dial is almost as good as many higher $$ rep dials too.  I tried a genuine GMT/1655 movement with genspec 1655 dial in the cartel case and it will fit after machining the case a little bit but the dial is too small...27.3mm for genspec vs 28.0mm for the cartel dial.  The genspec dial just barely fills the dial opening.  Could put a 1575 GMT 'quickie conversion' in it with the cartel dial and have a cool fly-by 1655.
    'Fly-by' GMT/1655 = looks good outside and under the hood but not under the dial.  There are a lot of them out there, especially now with rlx parts cut off.
     
    This site always has a lot of genuine 1655 for comparison:
    https://www.hqmilton.com/timepieces/references/rolex-1655
     
    'Fly-by' GMT/1655 info:
    https://rwg.cc/topic/168977-building-an-mbw-sub-shortcut-rlx-156070-gmt-conversions/page/2/#comments
     

    Hey Auto. We were coming through your town this month, but the Coronavirus closed down the Smokies.

    You’ve been around long enough to remember. I bought the bezel in 2011 or 12, but not from ndtrading. The vendor was Mark something, like Mk. III or something. Or maybe I’m confusing the name with the bezel. A Mk. II, or Ml. III bezel.

    I was asking because I’m thinking about selling the watch, because I never have worn it, and I have something else in mind. I’m loving these VR movements. Serviced a couple with good success.

    At 74 years old you’d think I’d give it up.
  3. This is for the oldtimers on this board. Just wondering if anyone recognized this bezel.  I purchased it years ago from a vendor that is no longer in business.  I think it was Mark III or Mk III, something like that.  They sold a lot 1655 bezels.  I'm sure it wasn't Ingod44.  I don't remember if this is gen or if it is rep.  I do remember that I paid $178 for it. 

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  4. Just wondering if anyone knows...  I have one of the VR 3135 movements, and as luck would have it, one of the case-clamp threaded holes is not threaded through.  Does anyone know the tap size that would be needed to chase those threads? I think that it is the same as the case clamp holes on at ETA movement.

     

  5. What would you guys say the total cost would be to get the most reliable option, replace all of the necessary parts with gen parts, and service it?  Let's say a gen 3135 is around $2,800.  I am not saying that's a fair price, just what I have noticed the other day for a freshly serviced 3135 from a dealer.  Would the clone cost maybe $1,000 after all of that work and parts are replaced?  Maybe more or less?  I am just trying to get a handle on what is a better option for a full on franken build when you are using as many gen parts as humanly possible.
     
     


    You can purchase a 3135 for less than $2,800, (if you watch) and you can build a reliable A3135 for less than $1,000 with some gen parts, but it will never be a Rolex 3135. Fewer things in life are finer than a great 1570, 3035 or 3135. They are engineered for a lifetime, with proper care.

    There was a guy on Antiques Roadshow this week with a GMT (1675, I think). It was given to him by an uncle who wore it through VietNam (bought in PX for $175). This guy wore it through Afghanistan and 17 years of law enforcement. It was still his daily wearer. It was beat up. I doubt the Asian-made movements will do that.
  6. I say Amen to JoeyB.  I am 73 years old and drive two late-model Volvos.  My favorite rep is a watch that has never been repped.  It is a 16013 with everything gen, even the bracelet (except for two links and the clasp) except the movement, hands and dwo.  What's to call out.  Even my Sub is a TC V7 but has lug holes, a gen dial and hands with just a hint of patina.  I put a flat 4 bezel insert on it  and voila, a sub that has never been repped.  When I say "never been repped" I mean, by a rep manufacturer.  

  7. Have there been any upgrades/improvements made to these movements in past few months.  I've had three but only one good one.

     

    Also, where might one source one of the movements (with engraved bridges) without buying a watch.  I know they are available on the Bay, but not engraved.  I inquired about one with engraved bridges but it was an upgrade, at $450.00.

     

    Thanks! 

  8. Have there been any upgrades/improvements made to these movements in past few months.  I've had three but only one good one.

     

    Also, where might one source one of the movements (with engraved bridges) without buying a watch.  I know they are available on the Bay, but not engraved.  I inquired about one with engraved bridges but it was an upgrade, at $450.00.

     

    Thanks! 

  9. Have there been any upgrades/improvements made to these movements in past few months.  I've had three but only one good one.

     

    Also, where might one source one of the movements (with engraved bridges) without buying a watch.  I know they are available on the Bay, but not engraved.  I inquired about one with engraved bridges but it was an upgrade, at $450.00.

     

    Thanks! 

  10. Have there been any upgrades/improvements made to these movements in past few months.  I've had three but only one good one.

     

    Also, where might one source one of the movements (with engraved bridges) without buying a watch.  I know they are available on the Bay, but not engraved.  I inquired about one with engraved bridges but it was an upgrade, at $450.00.

     

    Thanks! 

  11. Hey, it was a great watch back then, By-Tor. I think you did an extensive review on it. My first sub was a Euromariner from Chris, at Eurotimez. Remember him. Great dealer,

    That sub morphed into an MBK case, from Chris, then into a TC case, and then got an a3135 movement with gen dial and all that. There is probably some DNA from that old watch in my parts box somewhere...maybe even in the watch...case clamp or something.

    I’m thankful to RWG for 11 great watches that I have built, over the past ten years, with information from these master builders.

  12. I read in most threads of the Cartel Cases you have to work on it , but what exactly is necessary to make it Gen like ?
    in my Case for 1655 build.
    can please anyone tell what exactly is to do on the case?
     


    Look at 1655s on eBay. Not just 1 but many. Study the way the case comes in on either side of the cgs. They should, at 2 and 4 be just even with the bezel...as you look at it straight on. The cartel cases usually have steel showing outside of the bezel.

    This is the way to mod a case. Not looking at other reps but at genuine watches.
  13. Well, the case has been poorly “aged” you don’t get scratches like that naturally. As mentioned before the fixed springbars should be a flush tight fit. They don’t look it, are they loose?

    Good news is the movement is a gen ETA 2824-2. The rotor is a mis-match though and a little grubby. It really should be silver to match the rest of the movement. The 2824-2 movement itself has a higher beat rate than what would be period correct, an ETA 2846 would have been a better choice.

    Unfortunately, judging from the shots, it looks like you paid a little more than the watch is probably worth. Here's a build – by no means perfect – I sold in 2016, to give feel for the market:
    [/url] Here’s a link for details about your 2824-2 movement:
    http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&ETA_2824_2


    I have recently purchased two 2824s like that that were sold as high-end and have the Novodiac shock springs, Mine also have mis-matched rotors but it is branded BTC. They are very good movements. Amp approaches 300 in all positions. They are offered on the Bay now.
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