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preacher62

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Posts posted by preacher62

  1. Gran must have had some bad experiences with reps.  The Swiss made ETA 2824/36s have been used in production watches for decades.  Being almost 70 years old, I remember life before Quartz movements.  Everyone wore these watches.  I had an uncle who was a framing carpenter and he had an old Tudor watch that he wore everyday for 15-20 years. He had it serviced for...are you ready...$20 at the local jewelry store and away they went.

     

    I hear people talk about how they "baby" their watches.  Even the Asian made ETA clones are as good today as the old ETA movements were in the 60s.  I have an MBK sub with a Swiss-made ETA 2836 on board and I have no reason to think that it wouldn't be running 20 years from now with proper service.  I built two DJs from gen parts and ETA movements and they will be passed on to someone else to use.

     

    If one always buys the "canal street" specials he/she will have a bad watch experience.  If one always buys the cheaper rep with the Chinese made movement then you get that for which you paid.  I agree that they are not very good movements, but they do what they are intended for.

     

    I think that anyone who would make the broad, general statement..."Replicas are no good..."  just doesn't know what he's talking about.

  2. Pardon my (possible) misunderstanding, but from some of the questions you are asking, it seems that you will need a lot of help in completing this build.  for instance, there is no slow beat ETA 2824 and dial makers make dials for ETA movements, however, there are no ETA dials.  ETA manufactures watch movements.  You get Athaya crowns from Athaya. 

     

    Good luck!

     

    M

  3. For the bracelet, I cut a little piece of a regular paper small clip and use that to tap out the pin.

     

    If your movement is running at a rate of +/- 1 hour in 24 hours then you possibly have a bigger problem than just an adjustment with the micro regulator.  That regulator would be effective if you were +/- say, 1 - 2 minutes/day.  I would contact the dealer and see what response you get.

     

    It might be that the auto-wind assembly could be removed in order to get to the main regulator and then regulate from there.  If you have no experience with watch movements I would recommend finding a watchmaker to help.  Not the man in the mall.

     

    Just my .02.

  4. SuperDan - Just a mention of personal practice.  I never make a purchase from a rep dealer's website without having contacted them, first, via email.  If I get no response after a reasonable effort has been made to contact them then I move on to another source.  Too many have zagged $$$s off into the wind.  Be aware that there is little to no resolution to that problem.  After all, it is the rep trade and there is no one to which you can complain. 

    • Like 1
  5. I find it interesting that here, several years after they were discovered we're still trying to call out clone movements based on stampings.

     

    KBH pointed it out - if you're going to make a snap judgement based on first glance, look at the shock springs.  

     

    First of all, as mymanmatt's photo shows, if your movement has an Incabloc, it's gen, or one of the built-from-parts movements we saw several years ago.  I've never come across a clone with Incabloc.

     

    Then, as KBH highlighted, the Novodiac's in the clones use the FHF Novodiac's NOT ETA's version as is easily seen in his pictures.  If there is only one slot for the spring, it's an FHF version and an Asian Clone.  http://www.ofrei.com/page1438.html

     

    In working on these movements you'll also find interesting differences from time to time.  I once changed out the fourth wheel, canon pinion and hour wheel for an H5 and initially didn't pay close attention.  When I was trying to regulate the movement, there was a huge difference between dial up and dial down timing.  Couldn't figure out what was going on until I tore everything down again.  The clone fourth wheel and the ETA were very different.  I compared a gen H4, clone H4 and gen H5 fourth wheel.  The two ETA's had a pronounced two stage diameter, the clone had a single thickness with a little collar at the end.  What was going on was the clone's seconds tube did not have a smaller diameter end - which the gen does.  So the gen fourth wheel when placed in a clone tube just slips through.  In the dial down position it was just riding on the second wheel causing it to dramatically slow down.  There are also finish issues (the balances on gen ETA's have a much higher polish), and parts issues (screws on clones aren't always right.)

     

    I think the OP's movement is gen ETA

     

    Thanks for this post, CJ.  I have argued that gen parts and clone parts do not always work together and some argued that that was hooey.  Also, you cannot always put a gen bridge on clone movement.  The jewel pivots might not line up.  As we know, there is more than one Chinese factory making these movements and some are better than others.  Once, I purchased a gen balance complete from Ofrie to put in a clone and the post that snaps into the beat adjuster was larger than the clone unit.  Would not snap in.  I know that if you compare the gen and clone wheels under a 10x loupe you can definitely see that the finish of the gen is far superior to the clone.  Having said that, I have some great running clones, that are healthy on the Timegrapher, but when you service a clone movement, it is important to be very careful and not lose or break any parts...and use the same parts to build it back up.  I think that the OPs movement is gen, as well.

  6. Imho $250 would knock that crystal in the head.

     

     

    I just turned down $1M for my set of three nos tritium 1016 hands.

    ...or was it $100?  

    It does not matter because I can't find them anyway.  

     

     

    I know a goober who has spent at least $250k on rolexjunk in the past 20 years. He started out in a nice new house with a new car and a Hot wife and now he is down to a small apartment, a ratty old car, and no wife. Evidently he lost money on every watch he bought.

    No, it's not me, I am dead nuts even on them, maybe a little bit ahead.

     

    Over the years I have known a few characters that had a genuine rolex obsession. Very few of them ever recovered financially.

    Otoh I might have a fake rolex obsession.    :prop:

     

    update 12-16

    Just saw a GF vintage clasp for sale on VRF for $590. A clasp! For five hundred and ninety USD!

    ...and it sold!

    Insanity.

     

    In a few years when the guys who paid $50k for an old rolex (that sold for $350 new) go RIP, many of their wives or kids will sell 'Dad's old watch' for a few hundred bucks. They have no idea he paid $50k for it because he kept it a secret so his family would not have him committed to the looney bin.

     

    Auto, you don't really think a man would do that...do you?

  7. Go to the top of the screen and you will see a little envelope icon to the right of your login name.  Click that and then "compose new".  Start typing mymanmatt in the address box and it will find him via alpha search.  This is how we send a PM or Private Message to another member.

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