preacher62

I agree with you, but being a lady... I definitely get away with it

On a man, no way!

My apologies...you are correct!

You are right TC.  When you put a movement in the watch with an enlargement ring to make it fit there must be some free play, otherwise you would never get the movement in.  When you screw down the crown the spring in the crown then pushes everything to the left and holds it there, (depending on how tightly the case clamps hold the movement in place).  I have, successfully, shimed this with thick aluminum foil...to, at least make it better.

I have seen this idea of turning the dial to bend the feet.  I think that was something that someone dreamed up.  It tells me that they have never actually done it.  The dial feet go through the entire movement.  Turning the dial could only shear off the feet.

When the stem is in the set position the spring on the bridge is against the yoke and it "kind of" holds everything in place with the stem removed.  A good rule of thumb is, do not handle the movement too much with the stem removed because it is the stem that really holds things together.

This is a rep watch forum and if you want folks to know it's a rep, get a diamond bezel.  Like monkey said...unless you're a rap star.

This is one of the best, model specific, articles I have seen. Should be pinned!

I have a 1016 based on this case and JMBs bezel and would like to do the mod to the lugs to thin them out. From these photos I can see, clearly, what needs to be done. I think that I would wear the watch more if that was incorporated. I think I see a project extension coming along.

Beautiful!!!

Admin, there needs to be a rule. No one can come boasting of their new rep without pikshurez and more that one piksure.

There just seems to be something wrong with a $2000+ rep, unless you come out with a real masterpiece like denimhead's "Full-on Franken 1655"

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/167302-full-on-franken-1655-finished/

What did he get...three?

I have made it a practice to email the TD prior to any order.  If I do not receive a reply...no order.

I emailed him 4 times over two months, last year, to purchase a 1655 mid-case and case back and never got a reply.  I just gave up on it and went a different way.  Others were emailing him and he was responding, but not to me.

I have purchased reps, both with Chinese movements, ETA clones and Swiss ETA movements and all have been a brass movement ring.

The second hand that comes on Trevor's 1675 has a longer tube that comes out of the hand and it will work for this.  You might contact him at trevorwatch and see if he can source it. 

Champagne is the correct color date wheel on a TT or FG datejust/DayDate. Even a white dial.

KBH, where can one get one of those...champagne DWO, I mean?

In the wonderful world of reps one has to first decide, "What kind of watch can I pull off?" If you work at the Mapco drawing "Big Gulps" all day, you can't pull off a $25,000.00 watch. That is what everyone here is trying to say.

I'm 67 years old and fairly well retired and could pull off most anything but I mostly wear this.



For the good of us all, don't do it!

Unless your ride is $60k plus, your convos will start with "fake rolex bud". Or if you drive a ford focus the only person thinking its real is the guy jacking u. The only thing worst than getting shot over your rolex is getting shot over your fake one. Oh wait, at least if your shot over your fake, maybe u have a real one to wear at home if u survive.

I think gold stands out enough personally. If you want bling get stainless and stop at the diamond bezel. That's just me.

God I love this place!  That...is...funny!  Jeez, how much would that ugly thing cost if you were to buy a real one?

You know...it doesn't matter what ref. no. you have. You can go to eBay and search for your watch and you can look at all the gens you can stand. That's the place to go for comparison.

OK...It's been a week and no proof of the pudding...

The reliable 1016, my two cents:

In my experience there is only one fix for a replica 1016...a fresh swisseta 2846 or some other suitable swisseta 21600 movement. 

 

I have worn (or tried to wear) watches with Asian '21 jewel' movements and only two types gave good service...Sea-Gull ST6 and ST16. Never had much luck with DG and NN Miyotaclones...usually low power reserve and/or erratic timing. Some members have had good luck with Asian etaclones but I do not like them very much either.

Why?

Because I c/o most of my watches and would rather spend time working on a swisseta than an Asian etaclone that may break down with no parts available.

 

The Sea-Gull ST16 is basically a Miyotaclone with a Seiko type Magic Lever winding system. The Magic Lever winding system is more efficient than the Miyota 8215 type of winding system and keeps the mainspring wound with less daily activity.

The dial and hands from a DG or NN Miyotaclone should fit a Sea-Gull ST16...I say 'should' because you never know with these things.

Thanks, automatico - I appreciate that insightful assessment of the "Miyotaclone" movements.  Many, here, laud these movements but I, too, have not had much luck with them.  I only have one that I am using and it is a DG3804B that is in a 1655.  So far (8 months) it has been reliable and keeps very good time. 

I am quite sure that the ETA movements are superior to the Asian counterparts.  All one has to do is to examine the wheels with a 10X loupe and difference is easily seen.

That MBK case set looks really good!! Where did you sourced it?

Just a question: I have a dear friend with several gens, included two 16610 -both lugholes and sel version. He will let me disassemble one of them, took the case apart and try to make a copy of it, but I absolutely don't know where and how to get it done. Does anybody knows what kind of machinery I need and has the know-how to make a copy starting from a gen? Only of the middle case, for the caseback/tube/crown/bezel set/insert/dial/hands/movement etc. I will refer to TC/ST and the other suppliers we already know. I'd like to set a small project like HH' 5514 Comex Case set!

I purchased the case from Chris, at Eurotimez, when he was still in business.  He was a TD, several years ago, but just disappeared off the grid.  My 16610 has gone through a metamorphosis, of sorts.  I originally bought a Noobmariner, like so many others.  Then I bought the MBK case and put all the Noob guts in it.  (The Noob dial and hands were considered some of the best around 4 - 5 years ago.)  Then I had the lugs drilled and put the gen crown and tube in.  Last I purchased the bracelet combo and dial and hands combo from TC to upgrade it a little more.  I think it's done.  I don't wear it very much.  I like the vintage pieces better.  Got way too much in it.  But that's the hobby.....

sshhhhoooooeeeeyyyyh! I can smell that all the way to Tennessee. I would never, ever invest in a 91.7% satisfaction rating. For a gen Rolex, I want to see 100% satisfaction and from a dealer that has a storefront, and, hopefully, is also an AD.

Now I understand...this is why we never finish one.........the other project calls to us.

Just when I get to feeling pretty good about my old 1680 Nanuq will just show out!

My old MBK case isn't bad with lug holes. All TC stuff except for the case and the gen 703 crown and tube. JMB will drill them and have it back to you pretty quickly.

Guess I'm not getting a movement pic.