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Posts posted by preacher62
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That looks like one of the "wrapped" bracelets that was going around when the Euromariners were out. They are gold-filled and gold-filled is very different from gold plated. It is where a thin layer of gold is actually heat-bonded to the base metal. It is not an electro-plating process. My granddad's pocket watch is 75 years old and still looks good. It's gold-filled.
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If it were mine it would be desirable above anything else that I had. I would wear it and love it. It is beautiful.
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This is just the way it is supposed to look. It is an overlay to correct the Rolex/ETA date position. If it were the same size as the date wheel it would not work.
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The eta 2836 date wheel will not work on a eta 2824 they have two different date flipper setups. The date wheels will not be interchangable with each other, but you can remove the overlay and use that on the other movts date wheel.
When it comes to the over lay you need to center it on the original date wheel.
This is true.
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Just received this watch yesterday. And couldn't take it off my hand.
I've been wanting to have a RA piece for quite a while.
Base watch is from Andrew. All using stock parts. And some RA magic.
The famous 1675 is next.
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Great looking 1680! Does this watch use a gen spec crystal and bezel assembly?
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It's beautiful! Thing is...if you look at 1016s on the bay, they are not that thin. They are not even as thin as a 16000.
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I'll take 2 with the round topped 3s. I'll buy today if you have them.
M
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Be sure to look, carefully, at the smooth bezels for plexi DJs and for 1016s. You will see that they are quite different. When JMB made his first one there were several iterations before it was spot on. A 1016 with a DJ bezel does not look right.
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This is a 1016 made with JMB's case. He also did the drilling and manufactured the, very nice, bezel. The 1601 case is way too thin and the lugs are too pointed. The gen 1016 case is something between a 16000 and a 16200 which is the modern Datejust. There's really nothing like it, as LHOOQ has pointed out. JMBs case uses the ETA 2824 movement and is pretty close.
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It is not a good idea to show your rep to an AD (gen dealer). Especially, in the case of a Rolex branded item, the AD may confiscate it &, in some cases, because it is illegal contraband & infringes on Rolex's trademarks & patents, you may also risk potential problems with Rolex attorneys.
Help me out here. I am not disputing but rather seeking understanding.
I have read this on this forum several times and I realize that an AD "might" cause an individual some minor legal problem (might even result in the loss of property), but, after all, he's a "jeweler" and a jeweler, in my locale, is not empowered to "confiscate" anything of mine. I realize that one might cause a tense moment if an he takes his/her watch off and hands it to the jeweler. I am sure that an altercation might ensue. However, if there is legislation afoot that gives a jewelry store owner (an AD) this kind of police power, I would like to be aware of it. I'm sorry, but I just do not understand how that works. Law enforcement would have to be involved at some level.
I would think that the AD would need to go back to Rolex and file some sort of an internal complaint against me. Rolex might then elect to come after me with a legal action of infringement; and then, whatever the remedy was found to be would need to be accomplished, under court order, through a duly authorized enforcement agency of some type. But a jewelry store owner is just not empowered to take something of mine.
Has someone on this forum, actually, surrendered his/hers wristwatch to a jewelry store owner upon their demand? Or how did it develop?
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They are 1.8mm I have 2
Thanks, Matt. I have some ordered in a couple of sizes. Should have them this week.
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Does anyone know what diameter the pressure pins are that are normally used on an aftermarket jubilee bracelet clasp. I had one fall out so I can't mic it to find out for sure. I will buy a couple. I think they are 1mm. Just wanted to check.
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The 21j is a Asian made DG movement. It uses different hands than that of the ETA movement. I would recommend doing as Chronoshef said. Your money will be better spent. Some have had good service from the DG movements. I just have not had that experience at all. An ETA movement can last a lifetime if properly serviced.
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Good collection of parts but I think that case will need a 2836 to line the stem up properly.
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Great job Jerkstore. That looks fantastic.
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When I first got started in this hobby someone on this board (I don't remember who...) said,
"Real Rolexes have holes."
So I just went with that. It's been great. I like models that haven't been repped.
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/Group/100_3464-resized_zps31961fe7.jpg
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/Group/100_3465-resized_zps94237eb5.jpg
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/Group/100_3466-resized_zps796450e3.jpg
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/Group/100_3467-resized_zps06bc8077.jpg
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/Group/100_3468-resized_zps1229076e.jpg
And, why does the image format on Photobucket not work anymore?
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Well...I'll be kind enough to answer your question. Without a doubt, and no one will argue with me that the best Rolex Submariners are made in Geneva, Switzerland. They are distributed across the world by authorized Rolex dealers...and they are the very best subs. You can find one in your town.
Just being a wise guy. Welcome! Everyone that has come has asked that question. You are not the first. But it has been answered in the pages of the forum.
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Preacher62, looks like yours is 28mm whereas mine is 27.5mm.
What case did you use?
This is the case that jmb has sold which is sort of unique in that it is made for the 2824. He also drilled it and made the bezel.
I think it makes a pretty fair 1016. Nothing is right, as has been demonstrated by the great authority, LHOOQ, except a gen 1016 case. Therefore, you will have one that is too thin or too thick. the 1016 case is somewhere in between your 1600 case and a 16200 case.
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/My 1016/100_3436.jpg
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/My 1016/1016onbackondesk-resized.jpg
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/My 1016/1016onbackonrock-resized.jpg
I do not understand why our pics are not showing up but rather the links.
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The one for $110 from Mahand is interesting. He obviously has a connection for dials from the far east. Also sells a good bit of Tudor watches.
This dial is from mahand, off eBay. He has someone that refinishes gen dials. I have bought a couple from him. Good, not great.
%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx136/jumpope/My%201016/100_3436.jpg
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Hey preacher do happen to have another spare dial like one of those in your watches?
No...sorry. If I did, you could have it.
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i do have a nice silver panpie dial yes
The conventional wisdom is the at 16000 case takes a 2836 movement and a 1600 case takes a 2824 movements, however, if you use the piepan dial (which, granted, came in the 1603) then that almost moves the stem height into a 2836 position. It is rather "in-between".
Be sure to do what Matt said and make sure your stem in centered. Once you clamp the movement down, it puts the stem in a serious and continuous strain if it is not mighty close to center of the tube.
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The enlargement ring for the 16000 case and the 1603 case would be the same ring, since both cases originally held the same Rolex 1570 movement.aurelienconiglio, on 22 Apr 2013 - 4:37 PM, said:
alright i understand, would this one on ebay fit my 2824-2movement in my 1603 gen case?
thanks a lot guys for helping !
My 16520 Patrizzi Daytona for a gen GMTIIC? Would you do it?
in The Rolex Area
Posted
Keep the 'tona. It's beautiful. The GMT is just a GMT. And I agree with 1680 on the C models.