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preacher62

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Posts posted by preacher62

  1. The canon pinion snaps down past a bulge.  If it was not seated all the way down, you would not be able to set it.  I say that as per a 1570...never disassembled a 1560.  The second pinion is a pin with a tiny gear on the end and is driven indirectly.  My guess is that the minute wheel is not meshing.  Does the movement tick, but just not drive the minute and hour hand?

     

    Movement parts are mostly available.  If all the parts are there then I would take it to a watch maker and just ask him to check it out.  $100 should do it.  You paid more than that for the crystal.  If your concerned about reppiness, then take the movement out of the watch and take it to a watch maker.

  2. Its like i said more firm and tight but a little to thick but correct bezel teeth! The wso one is lose and floppy (bugs the [censored] out of me) but it has the correct thicknes but wrong bezel teeth! Its more up to you, i have bothe the clarks ones on my 1675 watches.

    Its like i said more firm and tight but a little to thick but correct bezel teeth! The wso one is lose and floppy (bugs the [censored] out of me) but it has the correct thicknes but wrong bezel teeth! Its more up to you, i have bothe the clarks ones on my 1675 watches.

     

    Mine, actually, does not turn at all, but that is ok with me.  I just have it set to do 24 hr time and I leave it that way. I love the watch, spent a lot of time building it, but do not wear it much...can't take my Explorer 1016 off.

     

    100_3436.jpg

     

    100_3440.jpg

     

    Oh...sorry...didn't mean to usurp your 1675 thread.

     

    MT

  3. ^^^Awesome

    CG's cme out great!

    gen dial?

     

    I'd get a better bezel, chamfer the lug holes a pinch, and recess the insert just a little and call it a day!

    Nice work!

     

    It is Gary Clark's bezel assembly but it is not polished in the pics.  I have polished it since taking the pictures. 

     

    I don't care to much for the chamfered lugholes.  If you look at 1675s on eBay you will notice that most of them have not been polished until the lugholes are rounded over.  Anyway...I tried it on my 5513 and I messed one hole up...chamfered too much...wish I had left it alone.  It happens.

     

    Thanks for comments.

  4. I have changed out the canon pinion, seconds wheel, escape wheel, date changing wheel, at least, keyless works bridge, and they worked great...that is gen parts for an Asian clone.  I tried to change out a balance on one and it would not work on that particular movement.  The post on the end of the gen hairspring that fastens to the regulator arm was thicker than the clone and it would not work.  I suppose some milling would have corrected that.

     

    What you run into with trying to make rules is that not all Asian clones are equal.

  5. Steps 5 & 6 are the most important. Sold off all but 1 of my gens and now back to frankens. I just find them more enjoyable, plus you can actually put a name and a face to how it got put together. I have one right now at PbDad, and I know he is a real person assembling the parts I scoured for, and not some random guy at Rolex. Plus I feel somewhat special, because my watch really is one of a kind, as opposed to one off the shelf from an ad. <img src='http://www.rwg.cc/pu...DIR#>/sleep.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' -_-' />

    Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

    I agree. I have had the same thoughts. But I like these and the only thing I would get is the movement. Not only do I want a watch that looks right but I want it to be a great watch, as well. The Swiss-made ETA movement is a great movement, easy to service (myself), easy to get parts and will last a lifetime. I enjoy the watches for which I sourced the parts and built the piece myself. It would not be fun for me if I had to ship items around the world to have someone else perform the operations on them. But...everyone's objective is different and I appreciate that. Makes for great fora.

    Twinsfacingeachother1-resized.jpg

  6. I love 1016's and these builds are making me green with envy. I have a question, Why use eta 2824 movements?

    This particular case, that JMB gets his hands on, is made for the 2824. This makes it a good 1016 candidate as it is a little slimmer with the stem height right for the case. He will sell you one with the lugs already drilled...by him.

  7. It seems like 1016 day on RWG. If true...this is a grand day.

    Here's one just like yours (except for scratches on crystal, now polished out) only J furnished the case, bezel, bracelet and lug drilling and I put it together. Swiss ETA 2824. Clark crystal and hands.

    You learn to love your 36mm Rolexes!!!

    1016onbackonrock1-resized.jpg

  8. Not sure that a 1500 case would be a good candidate for a 1016 Explorer. The 1500 is a 34mm case with 19mm lug-to-lug endlinks on the bracelet. A 1016 is a 36mm case with 20mm lug-to-lug. For a movement...the 1500 did use the 1570 Rolex movement so an ETA 2824 with a no. 2 expansion ring from rafflestime.com would probably work.

    Why not make a 1500 date watch? That would be cool and you could make one that would be near perfect.

  9. im actually laughing now ZK this will be the longest 1675 build ever in history and shortest lived lol

    I'm really feeling your pain...I just finished this one and everything fit on the 2846. All works well.

    100_3408-resized.jpg

    100_3401-resized.jpg

    100_3416-resized.jpg

    I have a proper date wheel overlay coming...

    100_3399-resized-1.jpg

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