preacher62

I believe you're talking about the bezel insert, not the bezel itself which is the metal part which holds the insert in place.

Some people buy a genuine Rolex bezel insert and put it on their rep. A gen insert will run $70-100 on ebay.

Second choice is the jewelryoutlet555 insert with the watchmaterial pearl installed. You can find jewelryoutlet555 on ebay and www.watchmaterial.com sells the bettter pearl for $10 plus s&h.

People like Helfands and Raymond Lee Jewelers also sell better inserts on ebay.

Keep searching around here for how-tos on the insert swaps.

This is an insert that I received, just this week, from wholesaleoutlet, on the bay. I think it looks fair. Zeros could be a little wider, but I'm happy with it and it has a pretty good pearl also. Needs some clearcoat.

I've got one in my SMP !

I got one in a Noobmariner from Eurotimez...came last week. Sweep of the second hand looks very good and so far it is keeping good time. I do plan to put a 2836 in there, just because it's easier to work on imho. The only thing that I don't like is that the rotor jingles. It seems sloppily fitted. I took it off and put it back but that is just the way it is made.

Theres a couple of ways you can do this.

1)Some members submerge the entire bracelet in oil and leave it in there for either a couple of hours, or overnight. (Usually inside a ziplock bag or air tight container). Personally I find this method wasteful because of the amount of oil needed (I'm a cheapskate ).

2)Another method is to pour oil onto the bracelet, twist the links to work the oil into the joints, and then leave the bracelet in a ziplock bag or air tight container for either a couple of hours or overnight.

3)The really quick method is to pour oil on the bracelet, and really work it into the links. Leave it alone for about 10 mins and then wash of the excess oil. This is probably the least effective way but still a significant improvement than out of the box.

I've had really good results from method no.2 and I usually leave it overnight.

You have to be careful if you have hollow mid links. You don't want them to fill with oil or you never get it out. I use 3 in 1 oil. Makes you watch smell like a mechanics shop...love it! I don't wash it but rather just spend some time wiping it off with a rag.

Whats the difference between 2824 and 2836 ?

I mean....should i feel disapointed on thet movement? Or is it as good as 2824

Not at all...it is essentially the same movement. The 36 has gearing and tripping mechanism to run a day wheel in addition to the date wheel. It is also a few pico thousands of the mm thicker. that is the reason that the 36 is used in the rep sub cases. Puts the winding stem center of the case tube. 2824 is a little off in most rep cases. Timing capability, reliability, and longevity should be identical.

MT

I got one from Eurotimez, this week. It is stunning. Jingled though. High end watches do not jingle. Tell you what you can do quickly to give your watch a better look and feel. Get some 600 grit emery paper and relieve those sharp edges...almost cut my hand off on them. The other thing is to oil the band. I laid mine in an aluminum pie pan (not the head, just the bracelet) and squirted 3 in 1 oil on the back of it and manipulated it...quickly, though. You don't want those hollow mid-links to fill up with oil. (This works really well if you have solid mid-links. Then spend some time cleaning the oil off, with paper towels and then a cotton towel. Gives the watch a much more gen feel...and stops that infernal jingling. Good watches don't jingle.

MT

BTW...I ordered mine with a DG4813. Clocks at 28.8. Really looks good and so far it seems to keep excellent time. +-2-4 sec/day. That will probably change.

I agree it's great for the price. This is the new M series Noon though so I think it's time for another By-Tor review of this one. The old classic noon without the engraving and better rehaut is no longer available. Btw We worked it out and he's going to take care of me. Looking forward to a By-Tor review

I got one from Eurotimez, this week. It is stunning. Jingled though. High end watches do not jingle. Tell you what you can do quickly to give your watch a better look and feel. Get some 600 grit emery paper and relieve those sharp edges...almost cut my hand off on them. The other thing is to oil the band. I laid mine in an aluminum pie pan (not the head, just the bracelet) and squirted 3 in 1 oil on the back of it and manipulated it...quickly, though. You don't want those hollow mid-links to fill up with oil. (This works really well if you have solid mid-links. Then spend some time cleaning the oil off, with paper towels and then a cotton towel. Gives the watch a much more gen feel...and stops that infernal jingling. Good watches don't jingle.

MT

I've never been able to figure it out. Jules Borel lists hand sizes of 150/100/17 and Ofrei lists 165/100/17 on the Miyota.

Jules Borel lists the DG2813 at 152/100/17.

So, to say the least, hand sizes could be a problem.

Last week I did buy a Charles Hubert 3514GW with the Miyota movt just to see what it's like- so far so good. Just another $170 knock-off!

I replaced a DG2813 with a Miyota 8215 and used the same hands...perfect fit. Also, the dial feet are in the same position, however, the date window is about 1mm closer to the center of the dial, on the DG. Mechanically they are not alike. The 8215 does not hack and it only winds in one direction. One of the best, most reliable and accurate movements I have is a Miyota 8215 in an Invicta 8926. It runs in 1/2 sec/day +-.

The answer is - probably. Does the rotor spin when you manually wind the watch? If so, then, most likely, the auto-wind module (of which the reverser wheels are a part) needs to be disassembled, cleaned & lubricated. This is also a good indicator that the entire movement is in need of a proper overhaul.

Thanks for reply. I think that it is just not that bad yet. It doesn't just spin all the time. Sometimes if I am just sitting with the watch level, if I move my wrist so as to shake it a little, it will spin. In any other orientation it does not do it. Rotor has to be setting level...for obvious reasons. Seems to not be an uncommon problem.

Nope. It's hit and miss. The "risk" can play out in some cases as many have had them last years with no service and no problem...while others only a few months. I have one with a sticking reversing wheel that has low PR...but I still wear it.

As to The Zigmeister...if you've booked an appointment in the past and never made it, or have asked a lot of questions or "annoying" questions without booking work...you will find yourself on his "blocked" list.

He does the watch work as a hobby and has more potential for work than time to complete it.

Good luck with the decision. It's a fun one!!

Toadtorrent,

You mention a "sticking reverser wheel". I posted this question on General Discussion and got no response. I have a watch that I built up that has an Asian-made 2824-2 (dealer insists that it is ETA), maybe a Hangzhou 6300. It is only 4 months and keeps time in the +-2 sec. range. Sometimes when I sit with the watch in flat, dial-up orientation I can hear the rotor spinning. I have removed the movement and confirmed that the rotor is spinning. It is like it is being driven by the mainspring and actually winding down the watch, but it only turns about a dozen revolutions, or so. Is this a "sticking reverser"? Is the upper wheel sticking to the lower wheel. I can probably determine which way the rotor spins when it happens. I want to fix it.

Thanks!

Just a questions...wasn't sure which forum to post it on but I thought I remembered someone commenting on this issue. I have a watch that I built that has an Asian made (I think, although the dealer maintains that it is ETA) 2824-2. When I get it close to me ear and if it is in a flat dial-up position I can hear the rotor spinning...like it is being driven by the mainspring and is unwinding the movement. Could this be caused by dirty or ill-oiled reversers or the upper and lower reverser wheels sticking?

This movement is 4 months old, but I have no idea how long it has been since mfg. or how well it was prepared during mfg. Any help or advice would be kindly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

This is something that I just came across on another forum and thought it might be of interest to some. We are concerned with the smoothness of the sweep of the second hand and feel that this is something that either confirms or denies the genuineness of a watch. Someone was asking about the lift angles for calibration on some watch movement and this document was thrown in. Scroll down to Rolex and you will notice that all of the calibers beat from 19K to 21.6K per hour.

http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=p5o...Bjx8xkOJtA2AiZA

The smoothness of the sweep of the second hand is directly related to the beat rate of the movement. This being true, the Asian 21J 2813 that comes in the basic noobmariner is more authentic than any of the 2824-2 or 2836-2 movements, whether gen or clone.

Could this be true? Maybe VPH and BPH is not the same number, but I think it is.

I always thought that the Rolex, in-house movements were the ones that beat in the 36K range...not so.

Comments???

I've searched the forum and can't find the answer. The watch Obama is currently wearing is huge, but I can't get a clean, closeup shot

of it. My guess based on shape and size is a Montblanc. Anyone know for sure? Also, what about Keith Olbermann's watch. Also big, but

unidentified.

I saw a thread on another site that had some beautiful pic of Obama's watch. His SS detail when he was Senator gave it to him. They bought it at the Secret Service commissary. The big star that you can see in closeups is actually the SS logo...maybe badge.

Thanks to all for responses. Thought it might be something like new...bee.

Guess I'm a noob. Been messing with watches for a long time and have built a few, but have not been into reps...am now.

Watch below is my latest project. It began life as a genuine fake Rolex, from Cancun. A friend gave me the empty case and bracelet. I added the leather strap and deployant clasp. I put in a Hangzhou 6300...I think...although, the perveyor insists it is gen ETA 2824-2 (btw, it does run in +- 3 sec/day). Case tube and crown were gone so I had to replace them and it had had a DG 2813 so I had to remove and replace the mag lens. I took pics when I completed work and did not clean the watch up. Sorry for the dirty watch.

I'm interested in reps. Was led to your site. Am enjoying the forum.

MT

No, really...what is a Noobmariner, for instance.

Pardon my ignorance, but I am a new subscriber to this forum.

Would someone please explain the notion of "noob". Sometimes it seems to be a noun...and sometimes an adjective...I've even seen it as a verb, I think. Is it an acronym?