preacher62

mastrmindalliance - The Noobmariner insert is made for its non-standard bezel ring. Unfortunately, there are no aftermarket inserts that will fit it out of the box. However, it is not difficult to make one fit.

Problem is...a standard 16610 or 16600 insert is just a fraction of a millimeter too large. There are tutorials on this site, with pictures, showing how to mil it down with just a piece of sandpaper.

It's not difficult and if you do it right, it is like ubi said.

Yeah, she might mis-hear me and think I said "tart funds"! I'm running out of places to hide watches...

Understand that! I'm always saying things like, "No, I just put that dial on that other watch", or "I just changed the band..."

BK sells them for $40 - $60...not sure which. $40, I think.

Email at bklm1234@gmail.com. He will answer in a day. Freight incl. in CONUS.

Very nice watch you have there. Here is some info I picked up on the Rolex gold shell cases. Rolex service in Toronto, Canada informed me that the gold on these cases is 40mm thick and it is an actual layer of solid 14k fused onto the stainless steel.

I had a gold shell case that was worn in a spot and I wanted the gold removed so to use the case as a solid stainless steel Date case. A jeweler friend went to work to remove the gold and in the end had to sand blast it off. He tells me it was a far tougher job than he expected. In the end he removed all the gold but it took a lot of work. These gold shell cases from Rolex are far different than a simple gold plated case.

A 40mm thick layer of gold is a layer of gold the thickness of the diameter of a Submariner. Probably 40mils thick.

Jo Jo - Just trying to understand something here. I am assuming that the one on the left is the franken and the one on the right is the gen.

Question is...if they both have gen inserts, did Rolex offer a different insert at some time.

The one on the right looks gen as far as I know. I look at the "2". Most of the after market inserts have the downstroke on the "2" coming down too far before it curves to the left. The one on the left is clearly not the same.

I have used many aftermarket inserts and am just trying to figure out if they are correct. Maybe I am a little OCD about it.

Ah, thanks for the heads up! Cheapest I'd seen so far was $20 for a set from that eBay seller.

The ones that I have bought off of eBay have not been very good. Not gen-like. Stick on the popsicle hour hand not long enough...dot on the second hand too small...minute hand seems to be ok.

BK has Noobmariner hands for $20 per set delivered in CONUS.

My first rep was a Noobmariner. I removed the caseback using the old duct tape method. Bye bye sticker.

"...and when I turned to ask him if he knew my Uncle Pete who vanished during the Fall of Saigon, HE WAS GONE!"

So I asked the barber..."Who was that masked man." and he replied, "What man...I no see no one. You must be crazy mon."

Thanks, very much, to both of you. I will review that article. I'm kind of excited by this.

MT

S/N is F845633. Fourth position looks like a 5 but is a little squirelly.

Thanks for reply. I've had this for a year thought it was junk. I want to put a croc band on it. Then if it ever fades or wears I can by another bezel ring...if it's MBK.

MT

Almost one year ago I came by this TT sub for very little money. It was almost new and I don't really like TT subs that much. It had a gen ETA 2836 on board and that is why I bought it. I re-purposed the ETA to an LV that I built. Well... I drug this stuff out today and began looking at it. I noticed that the bezel click is a dull, quiet click, not rep-like. I removed the bezel and to my surprise the bezel assembly is of gen-like construction...with the little click spring and all. Sooooo...I got to looking at the rest of it.

The bracelet is quite nice for a rep. it appears to be 14K wrapped, not 18K plated. It has a large sealing ring, like my MBK or a WM9 and not like the lower end reps. The case back has that "shitenerrand" stuff like my MBK, althought the engraving between the lugs is correct. 16610 all over which should be 16613, but can't help that.

It appears to have a nice dial...you tell me. I didn't shoot the dwo, but it is champagne and the font is superb. Case has a very gen-like case tube.

Better than average coronet on the clasp. (Sorry for the pic)

Here's the real kicker, I think. The case is virtually identical to my MBK. The SS part is exact...even the CGs are identical. It could have been knocked out of the same mold.

What do you think...I didn't pay much for this. Could it be an MBK TT?

Thanks to all for all you do.

Mike

Almost sounds like the rotor is loose or has maybe even fallen off. Five minute job to remove the case back have a look.

Got to be a loose rotor, loose movement, loose case clamp. Probably not a big thing.

The "2" looks right and the font boldness looks right.

On just about all of the aftermarket inserts (watch material, jewelry outlet, etc.) the "2" in 20 is just wrong.

dont you read the current threads? Eurotimez maybe possibly not the very best of advice at present but I could be wrong

http://www.rwgforum.com/topic/114514-rwg-admins-remove-eurotimez-as-a-trusted-dealer/page__pid__813920__st__0&#entry813920

I'm really sorry. I was just trying to be helpful. I've had good service from Chris.

There was no need for the tone.

MT

Go to www.Eurotimez.com. The subs that are from the Noobfactory are clearly branded as Noob Factory product.

Eurotimez is a trusted dealer on this board.

MT

A good ETA 2824-2 or 2836-2 should run from 35 - 45 hours on full wind.

Maybe you haven't gotten it wound up as yet. Try winding it manually.

Mike

Sure would be nice to see some pikshers of your new Explorer I. It is my fave.

I had this problem once on a 2836.

The yoke (and correct me if my terms are wrong) pushes on the ratchet wheel because it in turn pushes on a flat sprung part of the works.

I found that the yoke had overlapped the spring slightly so that there was no pressure on the yoke, therefore the ratchet wheel would not engage the winder. Simply resetting the yoke onto the flat spring cured it.

Apologies again for not knowing the correct terms for these parts. I hope you get the gist.

I just took it apart and put it back together again. There's no spring there. There is a spring on the Asian-made DG 2813 that gets in the way and you have to make sure that it is positioned correctly. I have an exploded diagram of the keyless works that I have referred to. I have ddone this for years, that's why it's so frustrating, however, I haven't disassembled one is several months.

Thanks for the idea.

Yes, it is. I am puzzled. Have taken this apart and reassembled several times today. The parts only go together one way. I have disengaged the hack lever, just to make sure that wasn't getting in the way.

I must not be assembling it correctly, but I just can't see the mistake. Everything works but winding. Time sets, date sets...

The set lever pushes the date corrector lever as far as it will, until the set lever tip hits the pin on the corrector lever. I don't know.

Are there any other secrets with the bridge, other than the tab you mentioned.?

Now this is really frustrating. I went through the exercise and now have duplicated the problem on both movements. They will set time, change date, etc., but the yoke does not put the crown ratchet back far enough to engage the pinion ratchet.

WOW...

I can't tell you how many times that I have taken the keyless works apart and put them together with no problems.

Any help appreciated.

Yes,it is the correct stem. I can wind the watch with just the stem in place. As a matter of fact, I can use my tweezers, with everything assembled, to just push the yoke all the way back and then it will wind, it's just that the mechanism does not seem to move the yoke back far enough when I push the stem in to winding position.

All the parts are working together like they are supposed to...except...

I must have damaged one of the parts, but they look fine.

As an exercise, I may take the keyless works out of another movement and replace the parts one at a time and see what happens.

Thanks for responses. If you have any other ideas please pass them along.

Do you hear any "clanking" sounds when shaking the watch, as if to wind it? The rotor on the winding mechanism, on the 2836/24 just barely clears the case clamp screws. If he did not use the correct screws it could be the problem. Or if the screws are not tighted down they could be sticking up to far.

The other thing is...when you hold the watch up to your ear and wind it manually...with the stem, do you hear a sound like the rotor is spinning? If so you may have a sticking reverser wheel. I see this problem all the time, especially with ETA copies.

I posted this on The Zigmeister's board but thought I'd post it here, as well.

I have a 2824 that has me puzzled. When you push the stem in to the winding position the yoke does not push the castle back quite far enough to engage the gearing on the pinion. I have taken the keyless works apart multiple times and cannot seem to make it work. I have adjusted the spring on the bridge and have adjusted the yoke just a tad. Gears are good. Stop lever is in the right place, just never had this problem before. Nothing changes anything.

All the parts look good. It is not an old movement so I don't think wear is the problem. Maybe something got bent and I didn't know it. Everything else seems to work fine. My only solution is to buy new parts and put them in.

Has anyone seen this before?

Mike

I noticed that there are no other threads here, but thought I would throw this in anyway.

I have a 2824 that has me puzzled. When you push the stem in to the winding position the yoke does not push the castle back quite far enough to engage the gearing on the pinion. I have taken it apart multiple times and cannot seem to make it work. I have adjusted the spring on the bridge and have adjusted the yoke just a tad. Gears are good. Stop lever is in the right place, just never had this problem before. Nothing changes anything.

All the parts look good. It is not an old movement so I don't think wear is the problem. Maybe something got bent and I didn't know it. Everything else seems to work fine. My only solution is to buy new parts and put them in.

Has anyone seen this before?

Mike

Thanks! I've got it fixed. Just loosened the screws a quarter turn.