preacher62

Search "eta 2824-2 wheel" on the bay. You should be looking for hour wheel, minute wheel (or cannon pinion) and second wheel in h4 height.

The seller from Thailand is pretty good. I always buy mine from him.

Thanks! I will check it out. Building a vintage DJ with a gen dial and the hour markers are high. I can use the stock movement but can't really seat the hand down like it should be. Didn't know if they came in a set. I don't really need the hour wheel. It is fine.

Thanks, again!

M

I bought some Noob bracelets from BK for $40. Bracelet is not bad, just the coronet on the clasp.

Does anyone know where one could source these parts for ETA 2836?

Thanks in advance!

M

I'll check Monday and let you know but I think it was a 25-118...

Thanks!

M

What is the Clark Crystal part for a plastic crystal for a Datejust 16000?

Thanks in advance!

M

I figured I should break out of the Tudor "rut" and build up a Rolex so I started looking for a suitable gen dial. Didn't want any gold, or diamonds, or anything else blingy, just wanted a nice light colored classy looking dial. I finally was lucky to snag this one off flea-Bay at a reasonable price. As far as I can tell it's an exact match in coloration and texture to my gen Tudor Prince Oysterdate!

Mated to the gen dial is an ETA 2836-2 with the remainder being rep parts. The crystal is a Clarks and the bezel is an extra "" piece developed for a recent bad-a$$ Space Dweller project!

Not very many pictures as we have all seen tons of DJs before but just enough for y'all to get the general idea. This will probably be the last piece I build for myself for quite some time.

Justin, what was the number of Clark Crystal that you used here?

M

Automatico is da man. A veritable encyclopaedia of Rolex trivia, or should I say information. I love it. Everything I wanted to know about my project. So if I can't fit an acrylic crystal then I can still drill the lugs and be ok. I'm good with that.

Automatico - Do you know what size the drilling is for the small tips of a gen DJ springbar? That is the only other piece of info that I need for now. Or...if I mic the tip, how much larger should the drilling be than the tip of the springbar?

Thanks to all, very much. There's nothing like this place when you're working on something.

JMB...I really appreciate this post and pics. I just took delivery, yesterday, of this same dial ($65 from the bay). It appears to be perfect with a 4 power loupe. I have a DJ just like yours coming from trevor. It is a 36mm with a sapphire glass. Can I put a plastic crystal in it? I do plan to drill mine. Is the drilling 2mm? I have seen that stated on this board, but the pics on ebay look as though he drilling on a vintage DJ or Explorer is smaller than the drilling on a vintage sub.

I have been in the sub business so much that I just wanted something that is not a dive type watch.

Every clone 2836-2 I've stripped has had the jewelled reversing gear pivots. Most have also had the 8 hole reversing gear. Neither should be considered a tell. This is a recent clone (received making a noise and sent to me for repair. A good example of Chinese QC!), note the jewels and the reversing gear holes. the only tell is the shock spring (it's not clear in the pic that there is only one groove, but the springs are different between Novodiac and clone -

This is the Novodiac spring, similar but different -

That has been my experience, as well. (Having serviced many copies and gens) In fact, the Asian made copy has jewels on both ends of the shaft. I have replaced many clone parts with gen-ETA parts with no problems. The winding pinion, the seconds shaft and gear, even the reversers. No problems. The ETA reversers seem to fix the sticking reverser problem with the clones. That being said, I ordered a balance complete for a clone and could not install it. The post on the hairspring that clips into the stud on the beat regulator is a hair larger and I could not make it fit. Most parts, though, seem to be the same.

BTW...I have also, recently, ordered gen ETA reversers and they did not have a jeweled mounting between the gears of the reverser.

that would be a nice thing to do, but like you said its hard to know who is actually owed. so do you supply the mbk mbw parts then?

That would be great! I have a Noob LV and a MBK black TT. The TT hasn't been worn 6 times. I would like to trade the gold parts to someone for MBK steel parts to put my LV in. I would trade the bezel ring and crown, the gilted dial and hands as well as the bracelet, which is 14K wrapped.

Just a question for the experts. Will a gen DJ dial fit in Andrew's 36mm DJ rep case?

I would buy the asian copy and put the extra $80 into getting a local watchsmith to service it. Even if you actually get an ETA movement, it will probably be old and dryed out anyways.. or a referb.. or not an ETA at all...

Doesnt always matter who the dealer is. Sometimes the factorys just send them whatever and they dont even know what they are getting.. .

I agree with Dizzy. I have found that our reps very often need servicing whether they are Asian made or Swiss. I have bought reps with the cheap DG movements and then transplanted a gen Swiss 2836 that I purchased from a supply house in the states and still it needs servicing. Even when buying a movement from a horological supply house you just don't know how long it has been in stock there.

hi, i like this one, it has the correct solid end links, your choice on what movement you get, the dial looks pretty good too. good luck

http://www.puretimewatch.com/product/explorer/

Craigb, that's a good looking watch...but...the case diameter is 38mm. The 2010 (which you don't want) is 39mm. Gen is, I believe, 36mm. It seems like a sort of a cross between the legacy Explorer and the 2010.

This is the frustration of this hobby. How many times, on this a other forums, has someone lamented..."Why can't they just make one correct?" I don't know.

Go to this website and have a look at these Explorers. This dealer comes very well recommended on this board and these Explorers are popularly priced and there are a couple of different ones with different movements. The top two are the ones that he has carried the longest. Don't know what the difference between them and the others below would be. Only problem that I see is that the case diameter is 37mm and should be 36mm. Someone else might comment favorably on that.

http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_3&zenid=e272ee9ea0c2caf121cdc439f8dd4eb8

A good way to have a look at a gen is to go on eBay and just search the type of watch you are interested in. Look for a Rolex Explorer 1 or Rolex Explorer 114270 and many will be there for you to look at. Also many closeup pics from different angles. Just compare.

There is not much that you can do if the dial feet are on and in position. The dial feet attach the dial to the movement...precisely. It can't be altered unless one removes that feet and attaches the dial in some other method, i.e. glue or dial dots. (Even then, you must align the date window with the stem. Turning it will put the date wheel out of align with the date window.)

Then when you case the movement the stem can only come out through the case drilling for the tube. When the crown is screwed down everything is locked in place. Sometimes, on our reps the drilling for the case tube is not centered between the lugs. I have an MBK case that is off center just a fraction of a mm.

I don't understand it becoming misaligned just because you had the crown set changed.

They will teach you about the keyless works. Virtually all automatic wind watches are the same but different. Once you learn what it does and how you will be able work with any. TZ doesn't particularly focus on the ETA movements...but you can.

I have worked on many ETA 28xx movements and I have never been able to tell that it matter what position the keyless works is in when removing the stem. I have done it every way and have not had problems because of that.

When removing the stem you should pull on the crown while pushing easily and slowly on the release pin. You just want to press it enought to release the stem and no more. You are pressing on the pin that is the axle that the setting lever rides on. If you press too hard you can push it all the way out of position. The best way is to use a small screwdriver that just fits in the provided slot on the plate.

One of the points that no one usually makes is that when the stem is removed from the watch you must be very careful with the watch movement. Do not jar it or turn it over quickly or drop it. The stem has a groove in it that a little pin on the bottom of the set lever rides in. When the stem is removed there is nothing to hold things in order. If you jar the movement with the stem out the setting lever can move out of place.

It's kinda a shame not to preserve the oyster. That watch would be close to my grail watch. It is stunning.

Just my .02 here. I think this design would be better served on the older 36mm size. That way it also works as a Unisex watch. My wife would love that watch in the older smaller size. (The watch above does have some feminine-esq wear-ability qualities.)

I have also seen these in person and share RobbieG's feelings.

I think the leap from 36 to 41 is too much. As far as the 41's go, that 1mm does make a difference. 40mm ok, 39mm perhaps optimal??? Still refined, and elegant enough under a dress shirt. These 41's scream LOOK AT ME!

Like the new sub and deepsea, again in my opinion, I think their proportions are 'off'. If you are a big guy, I am sure they work great. I get the sense that these went onto the drawing board when the big oversized watch craze was fashionable. Now that understated is coming back, Rolex was perhaps too late to the market.

Final though, I saw a woman wearing a 41mm white face Milgauss-- LOOKED HORRIBLE on her. Way out of proportion and too loud. Conversely, I still like the look of a 40mm Sub (Cameron Diaz), or 40mm PAM (Heidi Klum) on a Women, but the new Rolex's not so much.

YMMV,

I agree...just can't seem to get into the 41mm DD and DJ. I have tried but it doesn't seem right although I suppose it will grow on me.

Looks really great!

Could you provide more details about the build? It would be a big help to others where you sourced some of the other parts (especially me! )

+1

My meager collection...

I have 4 Asian made ETA copies fof 2824-2s and 1 Asian made copy of 2836-2 and 2 gen ETA 2836-2s all of which I service myself. I have replaced the reversing wheels on two of the Asian made 2824s and one of Asian made 2836s with gen ETA parts from Ofrei and they work great. Matter of fact...the clone reversers are a weak link in the Asian made copies and often get to sticking and ultimately result in your problem. The gen ETA parts are much superior. It is not a big job to replace them. I bought some from the Bay that came from Cairo, Egypt for $3.99 and $5.99...worked great.

I have replaced several parts in my clones (which are not even all from the same factory) with gen parts and have had no problems. I have replaced reversers, winding pinion, mainspring, stem, balance complete, etc. No problem.

I'm not saying that there are no closes out there that will not accept gen parts...just that mine do.

MT

Don't forget it also depends how you put your watch down when you're not wearing it, such as overnight. Rolex instructions are as follows -

SIMPLE REGULATING

If your watch loses or gains a few seconds per day (remember, there are 86,400 seconds in 24 hours), you can correct it without expert aid. The rate of a watch varies slightly depending upon its position. Take it off at night and place it as follows:

TO GAIN A FEW SECONDS:

Lay your watch flat with the dial uppermost

TO LOSE A FEW SECONDS:

Lay the watch vertically with the winding-button downwards

TO LOSE RATHER MORE SECONDS:

Lay the watch vertically with the winding-button uppermost

@Brightight - Thanks for this post. Someone posted, some months ago, a scan of the little card that used to be included with all Rolex mechanical watches, but I lost track of it. Might have been you...if so, please post it again. Everyone that uses these reps needs to know this info.

MT

I diagree with deniz21. One minute per day is terrible. I would wear it for 2 - 3 weeks daily before doing anything. It might settle down to a more reasonable rate. A 2836-2 movement, whether an Asian copy or gen ETA should be able to achieve +- 6 seconds per day or better. I have 7 watches with these particular movements and I try to get from -4 to +6. These mechanical movments are not quartz movements and do not perform like that. If extreme accuracy is a requirement for daily wear, get a TAG or Seiko.