preacher62

If you have digital calipers, measure the space with the gasket. I may have a noob crystal with the cyclops. the ones I have are 30.33mm

E

I'm getting 28.64 inside diameter with the gasket in place. That's 1.3mm difference, although the gasket is going to compress a lot.

What do you think? Your consideration is appreciated, I assure you. I haven't heard back from Bert.

M

"What is the latest concensus on this. If you drop your Noobmariner on a concrete floor and break the crystal do you just toss the case or can a replacement crystal be procured?"

If it is an F520117 noob or the same case with rlx, rlx, rlx on the reflector (rehaut)...you can remove the movement and push the crystal out from the inside.

The problem is finding a crystal for it. Crystals in these watches are made similar to genuine with a stepped outside edge but they are not oem spec so replacement crystals are hard to find.

Do not attempt to remove the bezel as this usually results in a bent bezel because the bezel to case fit is so close that there is not enough room for the bezel to shift to one side and allow the spring wire retainer to slip out.

I would also remove the movement and crystal to change out a bezel insert on these watches.

Something else...

On some cases I have removed spring wire retainer type bezels by removing the movement, crystal, and bezel insert first...then slip a piece of very thin metal (a piece of automotive 'feeler' gauge stock etc) between the bezel and case while sliding it around to force the spring wire out of the groove in the bezel (or case) and out from between the bezel and case. This will work only if there is enough room for the spring wire to pass between the case and bezel.

I have an F520117 case in my hand and it does not look like there is enough room between the case and bezel for this to work. The tight fit between the case and bezel on this case is the reason for the crisp bezel action.

The F520117 bezel is really not made to be removed imo.

Thank, automatico...it is an F520117 with plain rehaut. And yes, after sneed12 said it is a press in, I pushed it out. It is a very nice Noob case. I bought it last week from a sale another RWG member held. It came yesterday and I was excited to have it. Mag was perfect, case was perfect, needed a movement, of which I have many. When I got out of the car I dropped it on the concrete floor of the garage...ouch, bummer!

I have sent to BK to see if he can help. Failing that, one of the dealers might source one. Andrew seems pleased to sell you any part of anything he sells.

Why are you trying to remove the bezel? Noobmariners have press-in crystals.

If you want to send it to me I can see if one of the spares I have will fit.

Thanks for the reply. If it is a press in I can replace it. Just need a crystal. I was thinking about inquiring with BK to see if he could furnish me one. I would be happy to buy one from you. This one had the correct 2.5 magnification. I do want that. I have had the older Noobs and the mag drove me crazy.

Dear Experts,

What is the latest concensus on this. If you drop your Noobmariner on a concrete floor and break the crystal do you just toss the case or can a replacement crystal be procured?

I have driven single edged razor blades under the bezel and it doesn't seem to want to let go.

Thanks!

Thanks to all. I will send him an email.

Mike

I want to source a Lady Rolex Datejust just like Silix's ROLS125 except with a gold or silver dial. I cannot get Silix to respond.

Thanks for responses guys. This is a problem with these movements. No parts.

I don't actually have a watch with a DG movement in it. I just like to service movements and make them work. It's therapeutic.

@Ephry73 - PM sent.

If anyone has two of these laying in a box of parts and will send them to me I will send a $10 gift card to Starbucks. I have a new movement that I just serviced and it was running strong right up until the time that I lauched the spring into the stratosphere. I know the movements are cheap but I'd rather make this one work.

Thanks! This is the spring.

Doesn't look beat up to me. It looks just perfect.

I'll stay with the tried and true platforms. I have been wearing a wrist watch for over 50 years and no one...but no one has ever asked to see my movement.

You want to take it easy with the "edge softening" too, I really pooched the chamfers on this one. And once the chamfers are shot, well you just lose the overall "gently aged" effect.

@Nanuq...maybe you and I should sign up for some anger management classes. How many watches have you done that to?

A fair question to ask is: Would you rather have a gen 2892 or clone 3135? might be fun to own one of these just to say you do, but I am thinking I would rather stick with a tried and true movement. Any one else?

Me too...tired of movements without parts availability. We spend enough time and money trying to "find" things. I have almost enough parts in the box to build a 2836.

A fair question to ask is: Would you rather have a gen 2892 or clone 3135? might be fun to own one of these just to say you do, but I am thinking I would rather stick with a tried and true movement. Any one else?

Me too...tired of movements without parts availability. We spend enough time and money trying to "find" things. I have almost enough parts in the box to build a 2836.

The PT vintage series 1680 is always left-justified. The date window in the dial is way too small on that watch. It needs to be opened up to the bottom and to the left. Also, it is set up to ETA specs so the Clark crystal is always going to be too far right with the cyclops.

The only option you have that I'm aware of is to replace the PT dial and the datewheel. I have not done this myself but perhaps an ingod44 dial and JMB's datewheel will fix this LONG LIVED PT 1680 datewheel/window fiasco.

This is somewhat of a common problem. Josh's 1680 is the same. The dwo is left-justified in the window and the cyclops on a Clark crystal is right-justified. I solved the problem by purchasing a 5513 dial from Josh and did away with the date altogether. That being said, a 1680 is still on my bucket list.

I understand how Nanuq feels at times. Who among us has not had those feeling...when you're trying to put your last shock spring back in (after servicing), you hear that little ping...and you know you just launched it into the ionospere... I usually take off my visor and throw it against the wall. Were it not for duct tape I would have no visor now.

@Charleston...it's hard to get answers on Friday. First of all, what sub do you have? Is it a modern sub...16610, etc. or is it a vintage sub, i.e. 5512/13, 1680, 5517, etc.?

16610s are usually not very aged under normal use. The vintage subs are 30-40 years old and if the owner spent time outdoors, the bezel insert is faded and the hour makers have turned a brownish color. You can age the insert by putting it in household bleach and watching carefully, remove and rinse when it meets your approval. The dial and hands can be aged by laying them on aluminum foil and putting them in a toaster oven, on broil, until they look like you want. I like to hit the plastic crystal with some 200 grit sandpaper and then polish it out. Makes it look old.

PM sent...

I have found that in the gen world and gen caseback from a particular reference number will fit and interchange with other gen cases in that reference. In the rep world a caseback from a rep case that is exactly the same as the other one will fit, however, you can't always interchange a caseback with a case from another rep manufacturer. Rule of thumb is...if it fits, good, if not try something else.

Oh the wonderful world of reps.

I agree with everything preacher says.

Although my build was a little different, I used a 1601 case to build an Explorer I, I did use a 2824-2, but I had a stilty ring which I used as a spacer. But everything went together smoothly. I also picked up a NOS 24-600-0 crown which fit the tube perfectly

Pie pan dials are tough to come by, but maybe a DJ 16000/16200 dial would fit. Like preacher says, a 2836 might work if you have a pie pan dial- I've never seen it either.

Sweet Explorer...I think that is going to be my next and last franken...a 1016.

BTW...I am about to try a Miyota 8215 under a piepan dial in a 1601 case. Just waiting for some case screws (it apparently does not take the standard screws). I'll post here. I think the Miyota spec is about the same as the 2836.

The 2836-2 might be a option if you use a piepan dial, but it has not been tested of which I am aware. The movement of choice, in the ETA line, for a 1601 case, would be the 2824-2. It is about .5mm(?) thinner than its counterpart. You can use a movement ring from rafflestime (see link below) and it will work perfectly. I have done it and the only modification to be made is on the ring where the case clamps cross it. It is too high and needs to be milled down just in those two spots. I used a Dreml tool with a cutoff wheel. Could be done with a file.

http://stores.ebay.com/Raffles-Time/Watch-Case-/_i.html?_nkw=movement+ring&_fsub=21207622&_sid=5404262

P. S. I believe that you need the #2 ring.

I think the DJ is the easiest Rolex to franken of them all. Cases are pretty good, crowns are fair. I purchased this one from a dealer. It had a black, horrible dial and smooth bezel and an oyster bracelet. I purchased a gen dial from the bay, even an 18K white gold low profile bezel, Clark hands and crystal (I have yet to put the correct sapphire crystal on it). I'm calling it a 16234 with the exception of the plastic crystal. Everything fit perfectly. It has a Swiss ETA 2816-2, serviced and keeping time to +/- 2-3 sec/day. Bracelet is from cartel.

I am so happy to hear such distinguished members say this. I even gave my Sub LV to my son and now everytime I see him with it on it looks bigger than it ever did on me.

Did you take a cheese grater to that crystal?

Ha! I know it's hard to believe, but the watch does not look like that in person. I set it up under a lamp with the light shining across the crystal to show up the "age". You have to hold the watch to the light to see the scratches. I have a Bulova Snorkel that I bought on Okinawa in 1968 and have been using it since. The crystal looks about like that.

I'm stuck between these 2 watches, I'm not looking to build a superfranken beast really, just have something reasonably accurate out of the box and that I can lightly mod/vintagize and wear.

First off, I'm attracted by the price point Red 1680 that josh has with a 2813 installed. Could I straight swap this out for a 2836-2/2824-2 if/when it craps out ?

To me the Josh sub actually looks closer to Gen than the PT out of the box. But I'm no expert. CG's dont bother me much I can live with that, I would change the insert for Gen and put on a Gen crown thats about it.

Which should I go for ???

I have Josh's 1680. I trimmed the crown down to a not so fat look and I like the watch. I Actually, converted mine to a 5513, but that is neither here nor there.

I also drilled my lugholes and modified the bracelet...somewhat.

Changing from an Asian-made 2813 to an ETA movement, of any type, is not a straight-forward project. The dial feet are in different positions and the hands are different sizes.

Are those sets that Mr. Slimball sells for $159. any good. Been wanting to ask if anyone had used one of those.

Will do and I see no harm in putting a clone in the TW and the gen dial won't fit eta but according to my watch maker buddy his 3135 fits gen dial submariner will post pics on this thread so keep checking back

@iRolexU You ae getting the advice of the best and the brightest in the Rolex rep world. I fail to understand why you are fixated on that movement which is nothing more than the movement you have with some stickers and decorations added that mess up the movement. If I had a TW Best Sub from the great BK, himself...with a movement that he had fitted and touched I would be happy and would not even take the back off.

I've seen people screw up a good thing, but not usually after they've been told by experts that they're going to screw up a good thing.

BTW - I want 2 gen dials at $220. Let me know the delivery charges.

I purchased one from Andrew at Trusty and it is great. Put it on a gen 1601 and it fit perfectly. Coronet on clasp is good. The oval is a little less prominent on the bottom, as it is supposed to be.