preacher62

If gen, it fits within either heading, so take your pick.

Thanks Freddy.

I apologize to admin in advance and this post may be bumped from here but I need to know. I have a gen 1601 case, 18K YG bezel and clasp, c. 1959 to sell. Do I list it under "genuine" or under "watches" in the "trading area."

've had a couple of Noobmariners and they have a pretty realistic weight. Are you sure it is a Noob?

The clasp on a gen is also flimsy. People have complained for decades. The only thing wrong with the Noob clasp is the coronet. It is horrible...probably the worst. Other than the clasp and endlinks the Noob bracelet links are considered among the best available. Many people have purchased a Noob Sub bracelet and mated it with a better clasp and endlinks to make a great bracelet.

A Noob LV should not be particularly lighter than the Explorer II or DJ II. All these should have hollow mid links.

I agree with Ronin. I've done this many times with no problem. The first rep I purchased was a Noobmariner with a DG 2813 movement on board. It quickly died and put in a Swiss-made ETA 2836 with no problem. My son wears it today. The last rep I purchased was a Josh 1680 with a DG movement. I put in a 5513 dial and ETA 2846 movement and have done similar swaps in between with no problem. The Noobs are the same case. Maybe your watch originally had a 2824 in it...that would explain the problem.

The movements are not the same height but the distance from dial surface to stem center is the same, and that's the main concern.

I'm planning on putting my TW bracelet on it and giving it to my brother for his bday if he don't want it I'll PM you preacher

I'll look forward to your PM. I will promptly send money.

Hey...we've all been there. Some of the Rolex experts on this board still point out things that I just can't see...really detail oriented.

The Noobmariner has always been tauted as having a good dial and hands. The case is good although not gen-like in construction and I have always thought that the teeth on the bezel were too short and turned down to quickly. If you break a crystal you can forget it. The newer ones are better with better crown guards and 2.5 times magnification on the date. The Noob bracelet is one of the best with the exception of the clasp and endlinks. (coronet on clast is horrible) Some have purchased BKs TW Best watch and Noob bracelet, taking the clasp off of the TW and putting it on the Noob links. Makes a great bracelet.

In my view, one can do all they will and spend more or less $1,000 and it's still a fake. No way around it. I still like this hobby, though.

Andreas-Rep, I am sorry to tell you, but there is not a lot right with that watch. I do not know JBL but maybe some of the others do. It is definitely not a Noobmariner. Noob has long had a pretty good dial. Generally, considered the best bang for the buck in a Sub. Times Shop is selling them now for $48.00

From the pearl and the surrounding triangle to the 12 o'clock and hour markers, to the date window (It looks to be in the wrong place)and the date font appears to be a standard ETA date wheel, not Rolex font. The Rolex date window is not in the ETA position, so we have to use a date wheel overlay to move it toward the center of the dial just a little and have the, very distrinctive, font. Noobmariner has very good crown guards, these are way too thick. The watch should not be larger than a Noob...if by larger you mean more than 40mm. The holographic sticker, 16233, on the caseback is for a two-toned steel and 18K yellow gold Rolex Datejust, not a Submariner.

Sorry

That's funny it only charged me 68 bucks. Maybe your state charges tax on online purchases?

Thanks for reply. Where is Times Shop. If it is in Taiwan or China, you know they aren't collecting state sales tax for USA.

I'll go back and look at it again. It showed $48 for the watch, $20 for tax and then moving forward I had to choose a shipping method.

Thanks again! Maybe I'll let this one pass. I need another watch like I need a ........

Maybe I'm missing something...but I tried to order one and the checkout procedure added $20 for "tax"..."tax". Are they sending that to the Tennessee Dept. of Revenue, or what?

Then the shipping was to be a minimum of $20, up to $50, depending on how quickly one desires to receive the watch. It looks like $88. to me. How does one purchase one without the "tax"?

I'd pay $68. for one of these, but not $88. That's bordering on too much money for an incorrect sub.

Piksures are nice. Never get tired of looking at DJs. I have an MBK 16610 with mods, and MBK 16613 Euromariner, a Noobmariner LV, a Josh 5513 with some mods, and gilt-dialed 1016, but...my Franken DJ is my go-to watch. Just can't seem to take it off.

This has probably been answered before but could not find it. Anyways my watches tend to sit unused. Ive noticed a few of them need a lite tap to get started.. This is after crown is wound to full power reserve. Is this normal?

If you are going to wear the watch it's no use to wind it to full power. The winding gears in an ETA self-winding movement are not as robust as the winding gears of a manual wind watch. I normally give mine about 4 winds and then turn it to start it and put it on. It will wind very quickly, depending on activity.

Seagoing - Are you looking to build a vintage 1016 or a modern version of the Exp 1?

By the way...I need to thank LH for a consult on this. I wonder if he has one more throw-away dial. I built this gilt-dial 1016 with a croc strap and even a Rolex buckle, but now I think I am having buyer's remorse. Maybe the "tool" dial with a riveted or folded link bracelet would have been a better choice over the fancy, going out dial.

It looks Swiss to me. 8 holes in the reversers and 3 relief slots for the balance shock spring. The Asian clones do not usually have but one relief slot.

That has been where my interest is for a while now. I love my 16610 and 16613 but I really like the 5513 and this 1016. I kinda screwed up the dial...got something on it and had to rub a little and lost some of the gold...hate that. But hey... Love those plastic crystals.

Justin,

All I can say is WOW! WOW! This bezel is 100%!

Thanks!

M

P. S. I'll do a layout on it after I drill the lugs. Every piece came from a different source.

"The balance shock springs look like the picture below (dial side is pictured). Most of the later 1570s have a more contemporary shock spring. The variety that I have is almost impossible to re-install if you ever let it get loose. This movement is labeled 1570 but I do not know if it is a 1530 or some other sub-model."

The spring in the picture appears to be similar to springs used in many Etas. One easy way to r/r them is with a plastic tooth pick cut off to a slightly smaller diameter than the spring with a dimple in the center. Press down and twist to release or install the spring.

A wood tooth pick may work but it might leave tiny pieces of wood behind.

I have done that with the three pointed springs on the ETAs but this spring is not like that. It has a little hook at one end that hooks over the edge of the brass rim and the other end turns into an indent in the brass track. I'm going to have to take it somewhere and get it installed. I may be missing something but just can't get it in. Same old story, huh? lol　

I'm not sure what this means but I have a 1601 with a 1570 that was manufactured circa 1958-59. I bought it in Germany in 1963 for $450.00, brand new.

The balance shock springs look like the picture below (dial side is pictured). Most of the later 1570s have a more contemporary shock spring. The variety that I have is almost impossible to re-install if you ever let it get loose. This movement is labeled 1570 but I do not know if it is a 1530 or some other sub-model.

Someone slipped in when you weren't looking and stole your second hand.

What hands are you looking for. My experience is that Clark has near perfect hands for a DJ unless you are looking for some special hands that went with a particular model.

These hands are from Clark and I think they are ok.

I would recommend that you do business with one of the trusted dealers on this forum. I have made purchased from Trusty (Andrew), Perfect Clones (Josh), Silix, Trevor, BK and others. I can say that I have not had a bad experience. Patience is a virtue, sometimes, however.

Put the "fat arm" back where it was and only adjust the other and see if you have any luck. The "fat arm" adjusts the beat error and only a fraction of a degree will make a huge difference so to get it right will almost certainly require a timer...

+1 You can't set the beat accurately any other way, without the watch being partially torn down. Also, for future reference, you just movement the regulator arm like a tenth of a millimeter at a time. A little goes a long way. An almost imperceptible movement can change the watch 5 secs/hr.

Oh...I see. It wasn't there until I moved my mouse over the area and saw the hand and then the search function lit up.

Thanks!

M

Pardon my ignorance...

I know I am just missing something here, but where is the search function on the new site?