preacher62

Your "slightly lopsided dial" sounds like it might be associated with the real cause of the problem. Maybe the dial ring is not seated down good or maybe one of your movement clamps is loose and the movement is not setting flat. The dial should be flat to the rehaut all the way around.

No need to drill/tap the case, either, unless it's a newer one that takes a 5.3mm tube e.g. a 162xx. But that's a lot of extra effort for such a tiny bit of detail. Who's going to call you out while you're setting the time?

I understand what you are saying about the effort. The reason I asked is that I purchased a 16014 case without noticing that it didn't have a case back (shame on me). While searching for a case back I wanted to put the watch in one of jmb's rep cases, which I have. I have a gen 18k YG fluted bezel and crown that I would like to use. I also have a gen gold dial. If one of you has a case back that would work, I would happily send you money in return for it and then I would have one great franken on a brown croc strap. Then the problem would be solved. The 16014 case I purchased has an 18k WG fluted bezel that is probably worth what I paid for the case.

@LH and automatico - Thanks for replies...good info!

Not sure if you've seen my "Why not a 16000?" thread, but the visual comparison may be useful to you.

You should be able to use a Yuki 7206 on any of these. The endlinks are just about flush-fit on my 1601-based Space-Dweller, and ought to look good on the thicker DJ cases.

greyjedi: I'm pretty sure that's Skeet/Urul's Vintage Rolex Sports Models in the back of alligoat's pictures.

Well...Ali and LH...while we're here...Does a gen 1601 crown fit the 24-6020 case tube or is it another tube? Also, I need to drill and tap. Do you know what the drill and tap would be for a tube that would take the above described crown? I have heard that it is the same as a 702/703.

Thanks!

DJ experts...could someone direct me to a 16013/14 caseback or other suitable caseback? If someone has one in their spare parts I have money and will pay. (I do not mind if I have to polish it a little.) I have purchased a case without noticing that it does not have a case back. It does, however, have an 18K WG fluted bezel that is worth more than I paid for the case.

Thanks!

M

Too bad the hands don't match. I just gave it a fresh service and it's running like a top!

Great lookin' sub, Just. We need more red subs in Nashville.

BTW...some Starbucks Sumatra, black, would fix those hands.

I'd use the 2836-2. That's what I used on my two frankens and it's a lot less work than Stilty's using a 2824-2 and changing out parts and using his special 2824-2 to 3035 conversion ring- Stilty is hard to get a hold of and I don't even know if he has any of the rings left over at this point. You can get a #2 ring from raffles-time in HK for $7 or $8 and it will space the movement in the 16014 case. A 2836-2 also takes a DW overlay a little more easily.

I don't know the size of the lughole drilling on a DJ, but it is smaller than a Submariner/SD/GMT. JMB probably would know that since he drills DJ cases on occasion.

Thanks to all. I was hoping to hear 2836. The date-changing mechaism is more robust and the way the bridges are made make for less interferance with the overlay. The mvement ring that I have is the rafflestime ring...#2. He offered them for $3 once and I order 3 of them.

For a gen Rolex 16014 case, does a 2824 or 2836 work best? I have an enlargement ring that will work with either.

Also, what is the size of the lug drilling on a 16014?

Thanks!

M

You'll notice that after the original post, Mr. Rothschild has not defended his position even once.

Very nice! Mine's in the front below, but your pics are making me consider swapping on a rivet to change things up

No...no! Leave that jub alone. It's the best!

Just an interesting, to me anyway, update on the movement. After the minor 'surgery' and assembly, I gave the watch about 25 winds and set it. That was Wednesday night at about 10:30 P.M., and I set it on my desk. I wore it yesterday afternoon for a little less than 3 hours, and as of noon today it's still running. That's a nice reserve. And, with no adjustment at all, it has maintained time perfectly. No gain or loss of even 1 second.

This is my first ETA 2846-2, I bought it from Smith's Supply House in California http://www.smithsupp...eta28swau6.html because they had a good price. It looks new and genuine, but the rotor was an engraved 'Bulova'. It could be NOS or rebuilt, but I have no idea. I can't recommend the supplier as they overcharged me on shipping, I complained and got a credit, and it looks as though they made an unauthorized charge on my credit card with a dating service and a foreign exchange fee. That's still being investigated, but the charge happened at the same time of my transaction. The owner is very defensive from the go, and difficult to reason with. He uses Yahoo Business and blames everything on them, and refused to talk to them to straighten it all out. My credit card company handled it, so no loss to me other than the aggravation. With all that I wasn't expecting the movement to work so well, and knowing I was going to modify it meant I couldn't return it. All in all, I think I got very lucky.

I puchased one from Wm. S. McCaw, Co. and it was new. $57.95.

Good point, but I believe there is more to it besides just not wanting to appear as another wealthy sheep in the luxury market herd. Vintage Subs (& other Rolex sports watches) were designed like tools, with little or no bling (how much gold & diamonds are needed in a hammer when nailing a nail) & that, I believe, is why they have endured & gained so much in value over the years.

I am not sure...all these responses resonate with me, but I think this is my point, as well. (I have been thinking about Panarais lately, because I do not actually know anyone who has one.)

M

Can someone please direct me to a 1655 on Josh's site. I have read that he has many listed, but I can't find one...only 1675s.

Thanks much!

Makes me feel old. I finished 4 years in the military in August of 1970.

I've had some that seem a little large (even if I just took it out of the watch), but when I put silicone sealer on them and make them sticky, I can install them fine. It causes them to bulk up just a hair and seal good.

Any simple solution or spacer idea? I swapped a 2836 to a 2892 and the new date wheel is catching.

I can get it operating perfectly but when I case up it jams and the date wont advance.

Thanks

A 2892 is not a replacement for a 2836. If the case is made for the 2836 then it is designed such that the distance from the bottom rim of the rehaut to the center of the winding stem tube matches that of the 2836, from the dial face to the center of the winding stem. The 2892 is a thinner movement and you probably cannot rectify the problem. When you try to case the movement it puts it in a bind altogether.

Another problem...I have had trouble with the thinner movements overall. It is difficult to get the date change to work well on a 2824. You have to have a very good and very thin DWO.

There are two different movements being discussed...it seems. One is the Asian-built 2836 clone which has been decorated with purple gears and stick on labels. This one uses the numbers 3135 in it's description. it is the one that has the problem with parts falling off. Not worth the money.

The other is the Asian-built clone of a Rolex 3135 movement. It looks and works like a 3135. We believe that it takes gen parts, i.e. dial, hands, etc. We do not know much about it as yet, as far as parts and reliability. It appears to have the same cheap balance shock that the DG movements have.

As far as the Asian-built 2836 clone not having spare parts...I have used several of the 2836 clones and 2824 clones and have never had a problem with replacing a part with a gen ETA part. The ETA copies seem to be 1 to 1 and they are very reliable when cleaned and oiled.

I agree with plaifender in that...who is going to take the case back off their watch and show their movement to someone. A gen Rolex wearer would never do that and would probably sue you if you took it off. I am 65 years old and have never been asked to take the case back off my watch. Get the best and most reliable movement not the best decorated one.

They do make that sort of dial, but they do not make hands like that. They are short and stubby looking, not long and graceful like a gen Lady DJ. As Freddy said, the "Rolex" and "Datejust" appear to be off kilter and the font doesn't look like the pic kbh posted.

$22,000 asking price and no one has bid.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLEX-WATCH-MOV-DIAL-STANDS-BOX-BRACELET-PAPERS-DISPLAY-5513-1675-1016-/170726930312?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item27c01e3788

I don't know...I've got two MBWs, a 16610 and 16613 and this doesn't look right. They have never put Montres Rolex in the case back.

Ah, the answer to life, the universe, and everything. Just make sure to have your towel with you.

I think I see a mistake there...

That is georgeous, Chief! I just wish that I could get into the Daytonas. I'm still stuck on the subs, DJs and 1016s. Oh well, at 65 years old, maybe I'll grow up one day...

I have a gen 1601 SS w/18K YG fluted bezel, new Clark crystal and gen clasp for sale. Opportunity to build a real super franken. You can get an 18K and SS jubilee braelet for about $700. Even have the 1570 if you're interested.

+1 for the DJ. One of my favorites and, arguably, the most recognizable watch of the planet. The reps are pretty good, as well.

I am not quite at my tackling movements stage yet haha thanks though! I am just at the assembly point.

+1 iRolexU - It's easy to list the actions by the numbers...it's quite something else to pick up tweezers and screwdrivers and actually do it when you've never done it. A 4 power visor is a must. I use mine all the time...as a matter of fact I am in need of a new set because I have thrown mine against the wall too many time. Geez, I love duct tape.

M

Higheo is right the hack lever is all the way on the bottom of the pillar plate. The movement must be, virtually, disassembled to install the hack lever.