preacher62

I purchased an 18K white gold fluted bezel for a DJ 16234 and it was perfect. Don't know that it is gen but it fit perfectly and looks great.

Yes, tried it again and it feels like the rotor is spinning when I wind the watch..............my watchsmith has said OK to post it back.

omgiv is correct. If I'm not mistaken this movement has two reversing wheels just like a 2824/36. These wheels will make you pull your hair out. They are very sensitive to oiling...the right type oil in just the right place and in just right quantity.

It's not difficult to fix but the best bet is to go back to the watchmaker again...sorry.

Most of the time when you oil the auto-wind mechanism and reassemble it the problem does not pop up immediately. It usually happen after a few days and after the watch has been off wrist and gotten cold. It won't hurt to wear it and it won't affect time-keeping...it just will not have a good reserve.

If I could come up with one of the new crystal/mag lens combos like on the newer Noobs then I would install a gen crown. I bought mine 2 years ago and it has the less powerful mag.

There's several listed on eBay between $112 (fluted, WG mens, or some of the ladies' models) - $700-ish (lots in the $400 - $500 range).

At these prices, they're not moving at all.

I bought an 18K whte gold bezel for my DJ for $155.00 shipped. I made an offer and he took it.

which model and which factory case are you trying to drill?

existing holes to be enlarged or virgin?

does the watch need to be disassembled and then reassembled?

I would like to drill an MBW case, a Noob case and a 16233 DJ case. A machinist recommended a "round-nosed carbide bit". Said that are very stiff and will not flex. He said just go very slowly (on a drill press, of course) and let the bit do the work. Just let the bit just kiss the steel at first let it start to break the surface and then just lower it a little more...etc. etc.

I can break the case down and get him just the piece of steel. I can even mark the place I want the hole. I service my own movements but I am not a machinist. Justin dazzles me.

I've had trouble finding someone who will do it. Most precision machine shops have equipment set up for much larger runs and don't want to break it down to do a $20 - $30 job. I have offered $50 to do it and had no takers...because of the above.

Wow this just put on a different light on gens for me....i guess there are tolerances the gen manufacturers deem acceptable. so why pay big bucks when you can get the same "tolerances" from a rep

The only thing perfect in the world is my 2 year old grandson. One can find something wrong with everything else.

will send you a pm

THANKS!

I am in need of a couple of the little gold shock springs that hold the cap jewel in over the escapement pivot on a Rolex 1570. Not the balance shock but the escapement shock.

Does anyone know where I might source these?

Thanks!

I've had lots of luck just bending the spring bars.

If the endlinks are too tight to the case and that is why the springbars won't snap into place you can take a round file and work the endlink down just a little...test fitting as you go. In our world, few things fit out of the box unless they were specifically made for it.

For the record... it's sapphire glass for sure (says Josh). I will place my order tomorrow!

It'll be great and no one will notice. I have a friend that is a Rolex wearer. He is an attorney and has a solid 18k gold DD presidential and a great stell 1601. He has purchased them for his wife as well, but knows nothing about Rolexs. He thinks my MBK sub is great and has tried to buy it.

I've sanded a few inserts myself but I do have a question. How does everyone hold the insert to sand it? I seem to sand my fingertips more than the insert.

Yes...you do.

BK sold me a Noob 16610 dial and hands and also a 16610LV dial and hands.

You know...it looks like the mag lens in in the correct position and the date window of the dial is in the standard eta postion. (I order a datejust and it came in like that) It looks as though you could contact BK about a new Noobmariner dial and it would fix the problem.

I have this watch and the case back is welded up on there. Any suggestions? I've tried duct tape and the O'frei ball. I even sat the caseback on an ice pack then tried to loosen it. No such luck.

I heard that as well. I don't think that Sellita manufactures, but rather just assembles. If you look at the website it says this..."Sellita is an independent company specialized in assembling mechanical automatic watch movements." I like it because they are a recognized global distributor of watch movements, unlike the asian clone companies. One can actually contact Sellita but you cannot contact the asian manufacturers. Having said that, the a couple of the asian companies are turning out some really great movements. Problem is...if ETA parts fit, then good...if not then you can't get the part.

I think it's great! If it wasn't too much you can always source Stilty's enlargement ring and throw an ETA movement in there and it will last you the rest of your life and no one will know.

Received a rep DJ from Trevor about three weeks ago and in it was a brand new, shiny Sellita SW 220-1. I was kinda excited to see it. First one that I'd laid hands on. Invicta has been using them in some of their watches for two or three years, along with some other brands.

I have serviced it and all parts, bridges, screws, springs, etc. look identical. I didn't do any parts swaps or anything like that, but, it looks just like a gen 2836-2 with only the branding cartouche changed.

"Novodiac shock jewels the most tedious part of reassembly"

I can tell you one that is about as bad...KIF-Duofix cap jewel springs on rolex 1530/70 etc escape wheels. Cheap made and almost impossible to find replacements...a bad combination.

Here is a picture of the sorry things, there is a nest of them on this Felsa:

http://www.christophlorenz.de/watch/movements/f/felsa/felsa_4000.php?l=en

Ouch! I saw the balance jewels and said well what's he talking about...that the easiest spring there is. And then...and then...I saw those other jewels... I don't even have anything with which to pick that spring up.

Thanks to all for reply. I made a tool out of a piece of pegwood, just like Automatico described. Took a small bit and made a concave area right in the center and then shaped it down with sandpaper to the right size. Was able to get both springs in.

I used to have the spring tool but have misplaced it and didn't want to spend another $50. I am ready to spend the money, I think. Then I'll find the other tool. You know how that goes. I find these Novodiac shock jewels the most tedious part of reassembly. Everything else is fun.

The springs are so stinking light that if you get one one thousandths of a grain of magnetism in your tweezers, forget it. You can't put the spring down where you want it.

To you watch makers.

Are there any tricks to replacing this spring on a gen ETA 2836-2. The Asian made copies only have one slot for insertion and you can replace the spring easily with No. 2 tweezers, but the gen ETA has three slots and, IMHO, without the tool it seems darn near impossible.

Thanks!

MT

Are there any tricks to replacing this spring on a gen ETA 2836-2. The Asian made copies only have one slot for insertion and you can replace the spring easily with No. 2 tweezers, but the gen ETA has three slots and, IMHO, without the tool it seems darn near impossible.

Thanks!

MT

That's great to know Freddy, and thanks. I am building the exact watch that you show on the left. I even have a gen Rolex 18K WG low-profile bezel for it. It will have an oyster bracelet but I will try to source a jubilee bracelet later.

Everything seems to fit. I purchased the dial from the Bay and the seller shipped it to me inside a plastic crystal. The crystal fit the watch perfectly.

Thanks for responding on this. I have been trying to find an open 6 and 9 dw but could not.

If you have a DJ with drilled lugs and a plastic crystal, is it always wrong to not have open 6s and 9s on the dwo?

@cougaree - On eBay it says that the H4 is the standard height and H5 is the tall one. Is this what you think or did I misunderstand.

Thanks, again.