preacher62

To be perfectly honest I got the exact responses that I expected. But as Ubi said, "at the end of the day you're building it for yourself".

This is going into a old MBK cased Sub that had keyless works problem that I paid $60 for. So I'm going to have a newly superlumed vintage Sub with a refinished gen dial and an a nicely working clone movement for less than $125 . So what if it glows like Chernobyl?

I'm pretty damn sure I'll get my money's worth of fun out of it.

That's what it's all about...

Ubi...thanks! That is exactly what I wanted to see.

In your experience, will a gen retaining ring fit on a Clark crystal (295 C2) in an MBK 16610 case set?

MT

I really is kind of a mess. The coronet may be among the worst that I've seen on a rep. The dial looks like it was printed from a computer program without font smoothing...or something.

Sorry!

Please tell me if this is correct.

The crystal and gasket presses down over the outside of the rehaut ring (as far as it will go). Then the retaining ring is pressed over the crystal further tightening the crystal/gasket to the back of the rehaut and also providing a mounting mechanism for the bezel ring.

Is this the way it works? Does anyone have a pic of the case without a retaining ring or glass?

Question is...if the above is correct then will a gen retaining ring fit on a Clark crystal (295 C2) in an MBK 16610 case set?

I apologize for my ramblings but I, very much, respect the knowledge base here and just want to make sure that I have it right.

Thanks!

Don't see it...maybe the cyclops is not AR'd???

WOW...I love the patina on those pieces!!!!!

Yes, there was. Strange and never before (or since) situation in Rolex history: it's the only case in which the same reference was used for two models, Air King and Explorer. It was the 5500 ref., you can find it both with Explorer and with Air King dials. The Exp dial is a bit different from the 1016: I mean, the graphic and font are more or less the same, but it had no COSC, but "Precision" written on the dial. And, of course, it was smaller than 1016.

I have wondered. Silix sells a vintage that is 34mm. It looks really good except that it doesn not have the "Swiss - T < 25" or whatever on it.

Gee...I hope the guy doesn't mind me having mine. I have 22 watches, but mostly wear these. My TAG SE/L has an honored place in my watch box, but...I don't know maybe I should sell these for cheap. No...think I'll keep them. I'm 64 years old and I think these will see me on out of here.

Opinionated people that want everyone else to see the world the way they do are part of what's wrong with civilization.

Was a vintage Explorer I ever in a 34mm case?

C2 is the correct one for the sub. C1 is for the YM. Clark's C2 however can be 2.5mm, 2.7mm (gen uses this height), and 3mm (this is Clark's default C2 height I think. At least used to be). With Clark's crystal at ~2mm instead of the current gen's 1.86mm, it's best you use 2.5mm gasket for the sub so the overall crystal height is closest to modern gen's. You also get better water resistance because the crystal retaining ring can fully wrap around the crystal with the 2.5mm gasket. The other 2 gaskets can stick the crystal higher up, not allowing the retaining ring to fully wrap around it. So tell Gary Clark you want 295 crystal with 2.5mm gasket.

-bk

This is very detailed information and I thank you. Thanks to ubi and alli as well.

No doubt...use a file. It will take off more than you think with just a few strokes.

After filing then take a stone and smooth up the end (kinda round it off) before screwing the crown back on. The rough edges left from the filing can cut the threads out of the crown...don't want that.

Thanks, guys! They are on the bay for $23. I'll order it now.

MT

I know there was a thread recently on one of the fora but couldn't find it.

Is 25-295C-2 the correct crystal for an MBK/MBW 16610 late-model case set? It seems that I remembered from that thread that it would need a C-2.

Thanks!

MT

Thanks, BK. The second pics are what I'm talking about. I would love to have that one.

Hi Mike,

Both are in fact correct. However, the one posted in the opening thread is an earlier "flat 4" and "long 5" insert. The one you posted is for the newer subs, and is also the factory replacement part. FYI, my gen LV "Y" series (2003) has the original lumi insert with a flat four and long five.

Cheers,

JJ

Thanks for the clarification. I am now happier with my three subs.

MT

???

I've got a gen matte dialed 16660 and the insert is exactly like this one (except mine has an aged tritium pearl)

I also have a gen matte dialed 16800 and the insert is exactly like this one (except serifed font on my sub insert)

I also have a gen 5513 with white gold surrounds that has an insert exactly like this one.

So, I'm curious as to what you are basing your opinion on. Do you have photographs of every genuine insert font style used by rolex?

I'm sorry JoJo...I wasn't clear. I was talking, specifically, about late model 16610s...as that is what the OP is referring to and is what many of us are trying to duplicate. This is one that is on sale on the bay and it seems that this is the "2" that is present in all of the late, gen 16610 inserts. Does Rolex modify these from time to time. If so, then I will defer.

If the above insert is fine for a late 16610 then I am delighted and will stop my search for a gen insert as it is like the one in my MBK, as well.

To answer your question...no, I have made no exhaustive study of the subject, just an observation over a couple of years.

Thanks for all your insightful postings on this forum.

Mike

I think the insert is aftermarket. The "2" is always wrong. I know of no aftermarket insert that has a "2" that looks gen. On the aftermarket inserts, the line goes up and over to the right and then comes straight down almost half of the height of the number (just like this one). The gen goes up and over and just after it starts down it angles back to the left side. I want two gen inserts for this very reason...for $25 each. Come on...someone have sympathy.

@jmb - I just love these in-depth show-and-tells. For me, this is what my hobby is. I love my reps and other watches, but what I like better is to disassemble a movement, clean it, oil it and reassemble it and see that balance start to swing. I wish that we could see more pictorial examinations of behind-the-scenes things. One gets tired of reading "who has the best sub" articles.

I would like to see:

How do you re-lume a dial?

How do you broach the holes on a hand without destroying it?

What is the best way to put new dial feet on, in different locations, without damaging the dial face?

What is the correct way to oil the palet stones.

Simple stuff...you know?

preacher-

If you have the entire bezel assembly, it should work. The construction looks the same as gen, so if you swapped the retention ring, the washer, click and bezel ring, you should be good.

Fitting just the gen/aftermarket bezel ring to a rep retention ring is usually where the issue is.

Thanks so much! I wasn't going to try it after my communication with Bert, but now I think I will.

Will post on tomorrow. What I have is a TT that I would like to convert to all SS. I have a Noob LV that I would like to put in it.

Thanks!

MT

@ubi - Here are some pics. Any clarification would be appreciated.

Bottom of the bezel ring

Top of bezel ring

Case shots

I apologize for the glue. I have heard that MBKs have lots of glue in them...well, that's true of this one. I removed about a pound.

Preacher,

Can you post a pic of your MBW with the bezel removed?

That should be enough to give you direction on this...

Will post on tomorrow. What I have is a TT that I would like to convert to all SS. I have a Noob LV that I would like to put in it.

Thanks!

MT

That is very interesting. I have talked with BK about it and he didn't mention any difficulties about installing a gen crystal. Maybe I will PM him and double check on things. Thanks!!!!

Crystal is a different thing. My belief is that it will work. I have a Clark on one of my MBKs and it is a direct replacement for a gen Rolex crystal.

Thanks Ubi!!! Hindsight is always 20/20. i appreciate the help. I am hoping to make it a smoking watch, so I will probably hold out for the whole assembly. Do you know if aftermarket parts for the tension and click spring will work just as good or do they need to be gen? Just seeing how much searching I am going to have to do. Thanks!!!

Not to highjack this thread but it is the same subject...I have an MBK 16610 to which I have been thinking of installing a gen or aftermarket bezel ring. BK told me, last week, that you cannot put a gen or aftermarket bezel on an MBK caseset. (said the MBK is unique) Is this what you believe to be true, or can you, as you say, do it if it you install the whole assembly.

Generally speaking, the bezel ring is a problem with most reps.

From 4/28 to 5/8...

I've ordered stock items from legit outfits in the CONUS and didn't receive them that quickly. Unfortunately, we're not dealing in a legit business. When we give up the money to one of these guys there is nothing that we can do to speed them up. I ordered a factory stock Noobmariner from one of our dealers and 6 weeks later the wrong watch showed up. It was 2 more weeks before I had what I ordered. I have purchased from that dealer again.

Ok, thanks so much guys, i'm sorry to be asking so many questions lately, but I'm just really starting to get into it all.

You'll never again have the money for a new pair of shoes...if you get into this. Save youself my son...RUN!

This is a Noobmariner that I retrofitted with a jewelryoutlet insert and Watchmaterial pearl.

This is a WM9 date wheel overlay and BKs custom crown set.

I worked on the CGs a little but they are still a little curvy in the bottom.

This is the fat tube that comes with BKs tube and crown set. It screws right into the Noob case tapping.

MT