preacher62

Thanks for good comments.

MT

My DG 4813 did rattle, and that is why I changed it out. I think it's a good movement. One of the more accurate movements I have (among 6 ETA movements). When you gently shake it you can hear the rotor. It actually touches the bridges. Doesn't seem to affect the operation though. I inspected it and that seems to be the way it made.

Regarding the hands...I recommend getting the Noob hands from BK, whether DG or ETA, although 2813 hands will fit nicely on a 4813. $20 shipped in CONUS. I bought some "Tudor" hands off of the bay and hour hand was too short and looked funny and the minute hand's lume line was too thin. This is only if you are a WIS, like me. The bay people just say "Tudor" because it does fit an ETA movement, which Tudor subs utilize.

You're right about that. You can get connected to one. I have ordered, from Chris, an MBK 16610 case set with a Clark glass installed and it should be here this week. I am torn between going forward with that or just selling the MBK case when it comes. True...it will have a better bezel ring and teeth. It will also have a deep rehaut, which the Noob does not. But, it also has a crown position that is too low in the case. I almost think that I would rather have the shallow rehaut and a crown that is in the center of the case, than the low crown position.

Decisions...decisions. If, however, one is looking for perfection, he cannot find it here. He can go to any one of the fine ADs and will surely find it there.

Thanks for the kind words, Ubi and Andy! You are absolutely right about the tools, patience and understanding.

Ideally, for a first project one probably wouldn't change out the movement and have to deal with the removal of the dial, removing and resetting the hands, much less the whole DWO ordeal. Just handling the movement is an activity that must have some underestanding behind it. There are many, many ways that something can go wrong here. There is enough infomation on this forum, if someone wanting to tackle something like this will just digest it. Study the watch that is the center of the project and visualize what the project will entail before proceeding. There will be surprises...just go slowly and do everything very deliberately.

If one had a watch with the movement he/she wanted to use, however, the other things can't go too badly wrong, if one thinks ahead and is careful.

Just wanted to post this as it seems that quite often there are members who are struggling with what to do about getting on with a purchase or a project. What sub

It's a great project. Let's see it keeping time.

I just don't work in my good watches. My sub will never look like that. I have a gen Tag Heuer SE/L. I can't imagine doing that to it, or my Bulova Snorkel that I bought on Okinawa in 1968, or my modded Noobmariner, for that matter. I have a lot of respect for you "born again hard" people that can do that to a watch.

I have the greatest watch ever made that is reserved for working on a car or working in the yard, etc. It is a 20 year old Timex Ironman. Composite case, no moving parts, 4th strap, battery every year, whether it needs it or not. It's a winner. My daughter gave it to me when she had her first job at 15. She's 35 now.

And the best part is...it's 100% GEN.

MT

Having managed a fiberglass supply company, I couldn't agree more.

UV has to be the way to go here. The only issue is it is pretty viscous.

An interesting experiment would be to mix the lume powder, and see if UV still catalysed it. (May even thicken it up a bit)

All the base epoxies, and polyesters, (even clear casting resin) will yellow with time.

There are some specialist epoxy formulators who could solve this, however the volume is so limited, it will need to be an "off the shelf". I have a close mate still in the industry whose company builds epoxies,.... I'll ask the question.

O/S

Thanks for the thoughts. UV glue is really easy to work with. As long as you keep in indoors in incandescent light you can work with it. However, when you take it in the sun or put it under UV light, you better have it where you want it.

I was afraid the first time I moved a date mag lens, but the only hard part is getting it off without bunging it up. Putting a new one one is a piece of cake.

who sell the best noobmariner that i hear is the best submariner for 100$?dealler-eurotimez or this dealler-http://www.jpc8118.com/rlss10009-black-beginmariner-asia-2813-free-shipping-p-6253.html

---------help!!!!!

If you're talking about the Noobmariner from the Noob Factory, there is only one and several of these dealers sell it. Eurotimez is one that clearly advertises the Noobmariner. The Beginmariner from Josh, is, I don't is a Noobmariner. I say that because there wasa few months ago, on this board, a comparison between the Noobmariner and the Beginmariner. The Noob won, hands down.

I understand that. I would appreciate it if you would just update us on how your setup is coming.

I have thought about building a wooden jig. Cut it out to fit the case perfectly. Locate the drilling and install a steel tube through the jig where the drilling would be. To stabalize the bit. Then I read, with interest your article on the use of a set and a center bit before actually drilling the final. Makes perfect sense that drilling into a piece of SS, at an angle, the bit will walk. Just glad I read your article before I screwed something up. That's what this board is for.

MT

That's great to know...thanks for info, jmb! Always lookin for parts that work without too much milling. Most of us don't have a machine shop. I am really interested in your lug hole drilling. Let me know if you want to do some. I have an MBK case coming to put that Noob in. I saw one that have been drilled...2mm just like gen. Looked awsome.

MT

This is my Noobmariner with BK's custom crown set. Fat tube. Crown isn't perfect but better than Noob crown.

And it screws into the same Noob case tube drilling.

Another day...I still haven't received a reply. Been 6 days now.

This is the famouse jewelryoutlet555 insert with the WM pearl.

You know what makes a great pearl coat. UV glue...the kind you use to mount a cyclops date mag. Put a tiny bit and when it looks right take it out in the sun. Dries in 20 seconds. The thing is it doesn't yellow. Otto Frei has it for $4.00.

I have not received a reply. Please see my email to neo.

Mike

Since you brought it up...Chris quoted me a price for a Clark glass installed. Tell me again why I want that. I know that the Clark crystal is very desireable, but exactly why is it.

Thanks!

MT

Thanks! Yes, I knew that. I have a price from Chris, but have asked some questions and just can't get a response. Always several days away, it seems, if ever getting an answer.

Thanks, again

MT

Does anyone of you masters know where one might source an MBK/Euromariner 16610 case set besides Eurotimez. I would like a WM9 case set but they seem to be forever on backorder. If any one of you has one that you don't need please let me know.

You can order gen Rolex crowns, and a number of other gen parts, from Otto Frei.

Just look here. The may not have the one you want, but I think that they will order you whatever you want to buy. They will not ask you if you have the gen watch for which you are wanting the parts, and they will not ask you bring it to California and show them.

http://www.ofrei.com/page642.html

MT

Good tip. BTW...at the top is was talking about the day wheel...not the date wheel. I would not remove it.

Thanks for help.

MT

Thanks to both of you for your replies. I use some adhesive that sticks like crazy but never gets completely hard. You can always remove it with a razor blade. I'll just leave the day wheel in place.

Thanks, again!

Mike

This may have already been discussed. Sorry, if it is repetitious.

I have a new Swiss 2836 and BK's date wheel overlay. Is there any advantage to removing the "day changing" mechanism or do most of the outfits just install the rep DWO on top of the day wheel?

Thanks!

Mike

BKLM1234 has a stunning sub overlay for $25. Email him. He mails it to you freight incl.

MT

Thanks for responses. Some of these movements are very nearly identical to ETA. I have ordered from Otto Frei, reversing wheels, bridge screws, other ETA parts and they have always fit perfectly. Others have not had this experience. I'm just not too concerned about the copies. I'm just concerned about the assembly process and primarily the cleanlines of the factory/home, and the care given to lubrication. I'm getting good service from the ones that I have bought from the bay.

I have a 2836-2 coming for my Noobmariner, from Chris. In the pic on eBay the reversing wheels had lots of holes. We'll see if the one I get has lots of holes, as well. This is one of the tell-tales.

Stories about AD managers grabbing your watch, and being backed by invincible lawyers are designed to make them seem tough .. as if they have God-like authority over watches. When in reality, they are simply people who have made a series of very bad life-choices and are stuck working in Retail.

Did you think I was talking about you? I don't understand your not understanding

Amen...I was just reading this post in amazement. I don't know where you all live but in Tennessee a "jeweler" has no legal authority to "confiscate" anything of mine, and Rolex cannot give him that authority. He's just a store owner or employee. He/She will have to make a bigger case than that to take something from me. On the other hand...if a stooge goes into a Carlyle and Co. and tries to trade a rep Pam for a new gen DJ, the idiot ought to be taken off the street, however, it will take the local constabulary to do it...not the jeweler. And the jeweler will have to make a case in court. Is it worth it to anyone. My rep watches have never cost Rolex a cent.