preacher62

Just wanted to ask...is the watch company in Guangzhou, China, that manufactures pretty good movements a Swiss owned ETA factory or are the movements just copies? I have heard that the Swatch Group actually owns a manufacturing facility in Guangzhou. I have four 2824-2 type movements and two 2836-2 type movements that came from that factory and, with the exception of one, they have all been satisfactory movements. MT

Thanks...haven't made a purchase, yet. I agree with the other poster, that the WM9 is better case set. Don't know how to get one though. They seem on permanent backorder from BK. I'd like to just put the ETA movement/Noob dial/hands in a case with a better bezel. Bracelet is pretty good, as well...with some chain wax inside. Thanks to all! MT

There are many threads, here, on the Noobmariner bezel. It is not constructed as gen and cannot be replaced with gen. It is even difficult to remove, although some have removed and replaced successfully, many more have bent the bezel trying to remove it. You can, however, change the insert to a better one without removing the bezel. It's a great sub, though. I have one...the modding is limited, but you can sand the bracelet, change out the bezel insert and pearl and order bklm1234's custom crown set. It is a fat tube, triple lock that screws into the Noobmariners tube drilling. Looks good. MT

I replaced the balance in a Miyota 8215. The watch started immediately, but the amplitude is about 25 - 40 degrees. What would cause it to be so low? This movement is not a year old. I replaced the balance because I inadvertantly damaged it. Thanks! Mike

I did not know those details. Thanks, Alligoat!

Thanks!

Chubbchubb, Is that an MBW or WM9?

I got a noob from ET with a DG4813. Runs at 28,800 bph. You can get an Asian-made 2836-2 on ebay for $60 - $70, or a fully Swiss made ETA 2836-2 from Otto Frei for $138...not the COSC version, but a good movement. You can purchase a 4813 from OFrei for $27.50.

Oh Great Ones... I am contemplating purchasing an MBK/MBW 16610 case set from Chris at ET for $165. There are no pics and I can't even find that one exists in a Google search. Does anyone know of this watch...any pictures...links, etc. Is the Euromariner built on this case set? I understand that the MBK/MBW "old style" 5512 and 1680, etc. cases are great standards for franken mods but, seems like, I read somewhere to stay clear of the other MBW case stuff. I would buy a WM9 case set from BK but he doesn't have any and is not sure when he will. $240 for the case, caseback, Kryswork crystal, bezel assembly (no bezel insert). Probably be worth the wait. I have a Noobmariner that is good (dial, hands, movement, bracelet) except for the rehaut and the bezel. Does not have the distinctive Sub look. Looking for a good case to put the works and bracelet on. If anyone has one for sale, please let me know. Advise here would be welcome. Thanks, MT

Thanks very much for speedy reply. I though that Rubber Cement might work well since you can alway peel it off if you work easily.

I need to move a DW Overlay to another movement. It is very easy to remove, however, I have never heard discussed what kind of glue should be used to fasten the overlay onto the original DW. Many glues are not easy to remove. Thanks! Mike

If you can't do this legally...then what would/could anyone do with a Datejust case set and dial purchased from the bay. You can't, legally, use it with other parts...even if they are also gen...to restore a Datejust. Unbelievable! I have some projects that are on-going because I thought that this a good hobby. Maybe it's not... (I'll keep doing it, though.)

WOW...every kind of people dig watches... That's what we all have in common. This is the only thread here that held my interest all the way through.

What a great deal!! Thanks for asking. I have been in the technology business for 35 years...since the IBM 370. I've even patched some boards. Now I have a company that does data networking, business telphone systems (Avaya and NEC), infrastructure cabling, etc. I also own and operate the website data-networking-in-home.com. Mike PS Now I know what the "Add Reply" at the top does...starts a new page.

What a great dead!! Thanks for asking. I have been in the technology business for 35 years...since the IBM 370. I've even patched some boards. Now I have a company that does data networking, business telphone systems (Avaya and NEC), infrastructure cabling, etc. I also own and operate the website data-networking-in-home.com. Mike

Franken is exactly right. I would start with the MBK case and Singer dial and go from there. I was thinking about putting a leather strap and forego the whole bracelet thing for now. I have many watches and two rollies. One TT that I rarely wear, so it makes not difference how long it takes. I just think it would be great fun. I'm hooked...hate to admit it. I have modded a noobmariner all that I can. Now must go on to the hard stuff. Mike

Just wondered if anyone has seen a review of these. Trusty Watch Guy has a line of vintages that are billed as "TOP GRADE VINTAGE ROLEX MODELS" They look really good, for the price, and the specs say that the "case and dial are 1:1, just like original." I sent Andrew an email questioning if they would take gen parts and he said that he wouldn't go so far as to say that. They have Swiss ETA 2836-2 movements and the dials look great. CGs look at little fat and curvy and the bezel insert needs changing. Bracelet pin holes need drilling but other than that, the Red Sub 1680 is not bad. If there is a review of these then...my apologies, but I haven't seen it. I have been thinking about buying Chris's MBK case and vintage Singer dial, and building up a 1680 but can't make up my mind whether to do that or just buy a Noob Explorer II (white). Someone take a look and comment. Mike

There is a tutorial for modifying the bezel insert before popping it in, but I can't find it. Could have been a link to repgeek. Just take the (very sharp) tip of a utility knife and carefully press it, point first, between the outter edge of the insert and the stainless steel rim of the bezel itself. Lean the handle back away from the watch and you will begin to lift the insert away from the bezel. Go slowly if you want to preseve it. Be careful about the bezel, not to scratch it, and don't worry so much about the insert. Just work it up and lift it away. It has glue under it so it does not just "fly" off of the bezel. Once you get the knife tip under it just work it around a lift it away. You'll need to clean the glue off of the bezel with a q-tip and alcohol or nail polish remover. Don't get sloppy with it. If you purchase a oem replacement 16610 insert from anyone, it will not fit out of the box. It must be thinned on the back and the diameter must be reduced...ever so slightly. Lay the insert down, on it's back, on a piece of 150-180 grit wet/dry sandpaper and, with two fingers pressing down, move the insert back a forth. Turn it by ten seconds (using the scale on the insert) every 5 - 10 strokes so that equal pressure will have been applied. You can look at the back and see if you are taking material off evenly. You need to see a stripe of silver about 1/32 inch wide. You'll know what I mean when you start. To shave the diameter, hold the insert vertically, with the edge resting on the sandpaper. Lean it back just slightly so that you will sort of undercut it as you go. Now, lightly pull the insert along the paper rotating it as you go...like a wheel turning backwards. Keep doing this, checking frequently to see when it fits. No worry though...if you get it a little too small just use some adhesive. I use Loctite Extreme adhesive. Holds like crazy, but you can remove it when you want. When you think that the bezel is ready to pop in, then just run a black Sharpie around it being careful not to get any ink on the front. Just to cover the bare metal so it won't show. And don't worry. You are not going to destry the watch. You will not hurt anything that another $15 for a new insert can't fix. I learned how to do this stuff by breaking things and tearing up watches. You just say to yourself...oops, won't do that again! Have fun with it. Mike

I got mine from Chris, at Eurotimez. I have changed the bezel, but it's great. I got the DG 4813 and the sweep is fairly correct.

This brings up a question that I have been wanting to ask. What are some of the models that always...always used a 6 bps movement. 5513, 1680, etc. Most of the one's that Josh sells are sold with ETA (or Asian made) 8 bps movements. I have not gotten one that I want because I though it is in error. Thanks for all your knowledge. MT

On some of these reps...for instance the Noob, the bezel is just not easy to remove without damaging it beyond reuse. Some here have taken them off and put them back. I went on some advice on this forum that made sense to me. Instead of removing the bezel and screwing things up...if all I wanted to do is replace the bezel insert is to do a destructive removal of the insert. You can take the point of utility knife and, very carefully, insert between the bezel and the insert and pop that puppy out. I can actually reuse the original insert. It just messed it up where I inserted the knife. I was able to mod the new 16610 insert and pop it in...no glue. Also, I have BK's crown set. It is the larger case tube but it screws into the same hole on the Noob. It is buttery smooth too, just like gen. MT

I have not used and ultrasonic cleaner nor taken apart the entire winding mechanism. The problem is that...if I hold the watch level, dial up, I can hear the rotor spinning down. That would be a sticking reverser, wouldn't it?

This post was tagged onto another one and I thought I might pull it out and post it by itself. Just wondering...about the reversing wheels in an auto winding mechanism...I have an ETA 2824-2 with a sticky reverser. I have taken the auto wind mechanism apart and cleaned it in Ronsonal 4 times, lubricated them with Novastar type B and L and it still sticks. I was just wondering what is the secret to this operation? Could it be that the wheel just needs to be replaced. The reverser that has the tiny gear on it seems fine, it is the other one that seems to stick. There may be some gunk between there that I just haven't gotten out yet. Thanks! MT

Just wondering...about reversers...I have an ETA 2824-2 with a sticky reverser. I have taken the auto wind mechanism apart and cleaned it in Ronsonal 4 times, lubricated them with Novastar type B and L and it still sticks. I was just wondering what is the secret to this operation? Could it be that the wheel just needs to be replaced. The reverser that has the tiny gear on it seems fine, it is the other one that seems to stick. There may be some gunk between there that I just haven't gotten out yet.

Also, this is a Noobmariner, from Eurotimez. The insert is for a 16610, which the Noob is modeled after, however it is just a shade to big for the bezel. I had to shave it down a hair. I guess it was dumb luck, but I got it just right and it popped in the bezel...no glue...hooty hoot. Every once in a while the angels smile.